Adrian

As Clive says. 2 principle sound types (sorry not an acoustics engineer so the descriptions are not necessarily accurate); Resonance from pannel vibration - use of dense bitumen like silent coat deadens the panel. Transmission - i.e. sound moving from a source via air vibration. So bulkhead, exhaust etc. Use a closed cell foam, eg dodo mat. You dont need to fully coat the panel to achieve the silent coat deadening but advisable to fully cover with the foam where possible (didn't do the outriggers to make sure carpet fitted). I did and it is quieter, even if it is a pain.

Just keep in mind if the hazard swith is corroded and you've cleaned it up it is unlikely to be a particularly long term fix. But at least you know what to do in the future.

Switches can be a pain - I found a replacement hazard switch fixed the hazzards, i believe these are notoriously poor. Having done my car I'd advise you sit down and trace the circuit both on the diagram and the actual car. I had wires that were redundant and others that wern't according to the diagram as it's quite common for PO's to cut corners. I'm no auto electrician but it's well worth making sure of your wiring first as you can't guarentee that it is as per the WSM.

Good to know, thanks. Mine are very dusty and only done a few miles since rebuild. I've ordered some anyway from Angie and whilst at it thought I may as well ensure the lines are tip top so a set of automec also on the way. One thing I've noticed but a lot of sites only list the acclaim, dolomite, TR7 or spitfire, I assume the part number is interchangable through som of the range. What sites other than the club shop do you use? (I'd have thought, rimmers, canley, etc would be generic?) (I've ordered some anyway from Angie and whilst at it thought I may as well ensure the lines are tip top so a set of automec also on the way.)

Ok back on topic now. I did adjust the rear correctly. I’ve change to the new pistons today, need to bleed yet but found the rear shoes were low, one was just catching the rivet. So if rear braking is minimal in contributing to stopping do I need to be looking at mintex or standard from the club shop? if the rear is ok, is there anything to be looking out for on the front? No leaks.

It's been a couple of years since doing the underside and TBH it was just the same prior to the rebuild HOWEVER I was just reviewing another thread along the same lines and will have a look this week and check it is all OK prior to going into the master cylinder. As the GT6 is the first old car I haven't actually got a yardstick against which to judge, hence the question which has been very useful and clearly shows something is lacking in the setup.

I found a reciept for Mintex M1144 pad type 16 calipers @ £64.80 from the club in 2014. I was told they were on and reciept indicates that being the case. I assume these are the front pads? Given the price I assume they are the right ones. No idea about the rears. Brake pedal is solid or at least very firm halfway down.

The mintex were on when I got the car.

Thanks for the replies Mintex pads on. New braided flex hoses. New rear brake cylinders in box but not on car - yet. New tyres all round this year - pre lockdown so not been out. Calipers relatively new. Easibleed, bleeding undertaken. No corosion, but not actially inspected lines for distortion but will check photos etc. I was wondering if there was some wear in the Master that may limit braking force. I suppose its the definition of firm pedal after bleeding that is somewhat subjective. I have no issue about adding a servo - seems a sensible upgrade to emulate modern pedal function but not on the cards yet at least until I get them performing as they should. Could it be that the easi bleed leaves the odd bubble in awkward areas that an original two man bleed would dislodge? My gut feel is that the Master is possibly letting it down. I'm intending to swap to silicone at some point. Interested that locking the wheels should be easily within reach of a good system, hence why I'm erring towards the master. Any other ideas?

This has been a question bugging me for a while. Clearly there can be no comparison to modern systems and older cars have the difference between drums all round and those with discs at the front. The reason I ask is when you see these car restoration programs some of the cars brake so hard they actually lock the wheels and skid (not saying that is a good idea but clearly shows a lot of solid braking). When I've braked, particularly in the mini before the rebuild, I needed a sun dial to measure the time between applying the brakes and stopping. Having re-used the Master cylinders on both rebuilds (not refurbished) should I have replaced them for improved performance (GT6 history file suggests the Master is at least 30 yrs old with no documented rebuild). Do any of you have any standards, tests you work to? I think the MOT principally looks at braking evenness? What sort of braking do you get? Cheers Adrian

When I was doing my mini the original fuel pipe as can be seen in the picture ran under the subframe and linked with a good 12-18" of hose. This location was was clearly unacceptable but had gotten through many MOT's previously. A new pipe purchased was long enough to allow it to bend above the subframe and 4-6" of hose used to connect to the tank outlet. I really don't think the presence of hose is a problem but the location where it is used (I would say especially on the smooth underside where it could potentially catch on any debris) is. My GT6 MK3 is solid all the way to the engine bay.

Took wheels off ready for the change, turns out I has a mixture of 165 and 175!

I went for brass and Chris Whitor ss banjo.

Thanks all, 155/80's it is!

The reason I say 155/70 is longstonetyre website says 155 is as close to original as possible but obviously not paying their prices and 70 are what are on now. There are loads of manufacturers out there. So by the look of it 80 is the better option?

I’ve had my car 5 years, got a slow puncture in one tyre, tyres were already well old when I got it (gone hard). 175’s are on but thinking about lightening the steering I thought 155/70 would be good. Any thoughts?

Right as part of an update. From the bottom. New adhesive one from ebay (wasn't happy as the letter size wasn't right). Middle, Chic Diog best he had. I lacquered the two bottom ones which improved their appearance. Top lucky find on Ebay best out of the three. Canley and Wins had no second hand ones. Annoyingly the plate does not have the three pins for mounting, unlike my original. So the question is how best to glue it to the bumper? I'm erring towards a clear uv stable sealant? Cheers Adrian

I have literally just bought a 38mm rubber grommet, made a hole to accommodate the fuel pipe so I can seal the hole. Not original but a practical work around.

I just did a search and came up with this at the end of the first page https://triumph2000register.co.uk/the-cars/technical-specifications/ Just scroll down a bit and you’ll see it. Adrian

According to the Triumph 2000 register MH refers to those engines destined for Sweden.

Good idea Tanky. Such a list will provide those of us lesser experienced individuals with a good diagnostic methodology that comes as second nature to those long term classic owners. I’ve only had my GT6 for 5 years but have gone through it as a novice, engine out, sealing block, new fuse box, rationalised old dud wiring, etc. I’ve really enjoyed it and even though I worried on many occasions a slow logical approach and many daft questions to the forum increased my knowledge no end. One point to make is, does everything I’ve done make me knowledgeable, no, just more confident and know where to get information. I’d still have to go to the manuals to effect anything other than a bulb change. You can’t beat experience and only repeating tasks makes them second nature. Uncle Pete is right, anything other that a pipe, wire, fuse it will be best to call assistance. This forum has a wealth of experience so if you take the plunge and go deeper into the mechanics they WILL help you, even though you have to decipher relevant information from the usual thread drift. Adrian

I topcoated stonechip and finished it off with dinitrol clear wax.

Hi all Had my rear bumper rechromed at a certain chromers in Walsall. Did a good job on the rechroming but asked them NOT to do the badge mount (was glues onto the number plate light bracket which they said they'd take off). They rechromed it anyway and destroyed the badge in the process - so another original piece that has gone forever. When I checked at the weekend, all the usual sources appear to be out of stock (for the badge - but can get the mount and badge for around £30). Bought a badge from the internet - ok but not as original, black is matt i.e. mine appeared to be fully laquored / enameled. Can anyone point me in the direction of a supplier that supplies originals? if I have to wait i'd prefer to do that. Many thanks Adrian

My view is - If you have the original shock mounts standard rotoflex shocks are the correct ones - basically its the length that changes with the frame extensions and CV conversion does not change the length. I think the extensions are used when the original mounts become unserviceable. So if you are going off the chassis frame and not body mount they will need to be the shorter ones. I used the original mounts for my conversion sorry not the best picture of the mount. Of course if you are changing the overall setup then I'd bow to more knowledgeable people here on the forum. Adrian

The inside of my GT6 is all Owens including the rear wheel arch trim. Great bloke, great stuff!