lincolnsix
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Posts posted by lincolnsix
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Doug , If there was still any debris about would it not splutter a bit? This morning it just cut right out from a steady 900rpm idle
Should I forget the fuel side and go to the electrics. I do know the dizzy has no side to side play and the centre brush contacts the rotor. I have another condenser to try.
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Pete, I am points, have checked the float bowls both clean coil o.k.
The carbs were professionally rebuilt/set up by an 'Old School' chap, sadly now retired.
I am reluctant to alter the mixture as it's been running so well, approx 2000 miles since the tune up.
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No Wayne, Just normal points system, I used to have an Ignitor fitted.
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This problem is getting worse. After the struggle to get back home Saturday, I 've taken the compensators off and set them up identical, four turns out from closed. They are nice and free to move in and out and have the two rubber washers in position.
I have checked the glass fuel filter and the pump filter, all the connections are tight.
It started easily and ran it up to temp, it was idling perfect at 900rpm but this time it just stopped with no drop in the revs. It always restarts first turn of the key.
The really annoying thing is before this started the performance was spot on.
Once again any ideas? Thanks John
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GT6 mk3. After suffering from idling issues whereby after reaching normal engine temp, the idle will drop from a steady 900rpm for a second and then correct itself ----- but sometimes die completely, I decided to screw the compensators right down as Pete suggests.
Just returned from a test , I got a missfire/holding back around 50/55. This continued into a 40 then 30 limit, until I got stuck in a stop/start jam when I had to keep revving it to keep up an idle ----- sometimes dying completely. When the jam cleared it ran o.k to get home.
I have recently ditched the electric fan for a mechanical one, glad I did.
I am now wondering if the coil is breaking down, it was very hot to the touch--- almost too hot. It's mounted in the usual place on side of the block.
I have a spare to swap over.
Any ideas please, Thank you John.
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For what it's worth I bought a 3 pcs Borg & Beck kit from a Motor Factors on Ebay for around £70 for my GT6
It included instructions and a satchet of Grease and fitted with no problems.
John
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My Mk 3 Rotoflex has standard suspension with rubber bushes and I have spent so long trying to find what the cause of the constant clatter/noise I get from the general area of the rear of the car. The best I can describe it sounds like the plywood boards in the luggage area rattling about, but I have driven without them and it sounds the same.
I have checked all the following : All rubber bushes using a pry bar. The body to chassis bolts. Diff bolts. All suspension bolts. Exhaust mountings. Tailgate latch. Fuel tank bolts. Rear spring for broken leaves. The spare is bolted down tight.
The rear trunnions are definetly not siezed. On smooth roads it's fine except where the road had sections across------ every section equals one clonk. When I use the ramp from the road onto my drive there is a groaning if I don't get it square on.
Any ideas appreciated. Thanks John.
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Thanks chaps for suggestions.
I have a fuel filter the glass type, no deposits in it.
Compensators closed at cold, they are not sticking. You can gently prise open with a tiny screwdriver and they return.
Will check fuel pump and electrics tomorrow.
I have been thinking when this problem first started, I got caught in a stop/start crawl on the A1 Bank Holiday Monday it was stinking hot, could this be related?
Just out of interest I have ditched my electric fan today and fitted a mechanical one.
John
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It starts o.k. hot or cold on Strombergs, but when on fast idle from cold the engine hesitates then settles down. If you run it up to temp on tickover sometimes it falters and then stops, it will restart but needs a rev to get back to normal.
Normally the performance is spot on, carbs are balanced , tickover around 900rpm. I had my MOT this week, the tester left it running for a long time and it was perfect, but I had the same trouble when I first started it to leave for the test.
I guess that it is a fuel issue? The filter is clean and the compensators are not sticking.
Thanks in advance for any help John.
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I have just had the front roof section repaired on my GT6 mk3 as it was starting to show cracks and suspect paintwork.
It had alternate small metal/filler plates and then just filler, under the filler there was copious amounts of foam to bulk out the cavity.
The repairer said he had never seen such a bodge, he used a Mini rear valence as a basis.
I have lots of restoration history with the car, except for the respray, I just wish I knew which Cowboy did it.
John.
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Used car dealers in Lincolnshire with motor sport connections and recent classic car showroom/sales.
Just out of interest I phoned the Sales Manager about a possible p/ex with my GT6 on a car ( a classic)
which I know has been on the usual websites for many months. He asked me about mine and said he
would be interested, the conversation ended with 'O.K. Leave it with me and I will get back to you.'
That was A.M. Monday, I am still waiting for a reply!
I thought that he was employed to try and make a sale.
Have any of you had a similar experience? Thank you John.
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Changed the regulator , back to normal.
John
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If I disconnect the brown/yellow wire and earth it, the light comes on with the ignition on.
Could this be a regulator fault? Thanks Pete, John
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My ignition light does not illuminate when I turn on the ignition, however when I use the car and stop,
turn off and then turn on again the light comes on. The light never shows while the engines running.
The alternator is charging fine, I have cleaned the alternator contacts and tried a new bulb, it seems
as if something is temperature related.
Any ideas? Thanks John.
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Thanks very much Pete, really helpful.
John
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I am working single handed to remove my non-overdrive gearbox, I have a jack under the sump and one under the gearbox.
The bell housing is free but I cannot get enough clearance between the end of the box and the propshaft u/j.
Do I keep on raising the engine and box, I have a nice even gap between the engine and the bell housing.
The gearbox mount has been removed and the top of the extension.
I don't want to do any damage by wriggling it sideways.
Any tips would be very welcome. Thanks John
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Thanks Pete, I was banking that it was an inside job.
John
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I have a leaky gasket between the non overdrive gearbox/rear extension on my GT6, the oil was
changed approx 2000 miles ago and is still very clean.
Are there any risks in using a reputable brand leak sealer?
Thanks for any advice, John
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Finally got this sorted, the locksmith found a pair of Land Rover keys which work.
I have replaced the hinge pin to take out the wear on the flap and wrapped a small amount of tape round the ferrule on the barrel
where it fits in the housing, that's taken the looseness out.
If anybody is interested the part no.for the original cap lock is 519352 not 515496 which is the one Rimmers sells for the
remanufactured cap. Mick Dolphin lists one for the 2000 mk 2, but again it's 515496
John
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Hi Doug, Just had a call from the locksmith, he has found a pair of Land Rover keys which work.
Collecting tomorrow, taking the complete cap with me to make sure.
John
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I took the lock that I bought off ebay to Rimmers to compare with those they are advertising ---- wrong size!
These are for the last batch of caps they had remanufactured, the barrels are too small.
I have taken the barrel and key to a locksmiths, the guy could not believe that the key ever turned it at all.
The key number should be on the tumblers.
I now await the results. I have tried all the possible Stag people for a new barrel, same answer they are obsolete.
John
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I have got the circlip off and can now see that the key is not allowing a couple of the tumblers to clear, also the key is too long.
The seller has a 100% positive feedback, I will see if he agrees to paying my extra costs.
John
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Thanks to Doug for the Rimmers info.
On their website they are listing lock and keys, but they state they are for later manufactured cap, it's look the same to me.
If I ever get the old circlip out, I will take it to them and compare ----- lucky I am in Lincoln.
John.
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I have bought a cap with a key from ebay, the lock on mine is badly worn you can push it open without
the key. This one worked a couple of times then no more.
I have soaked it overnight with WD40 but looking down the barrel with a torch, you can see some of
the tumblers are not clearing properly. There is a brass circlip on the end of the barrel but I am trying
to prise it off but no chance.
Is there any hope of getting a replacement barrel, it's looks like a 'one off', it has to have the hook
piece on the end?
Have contacted the seller, he assures me it works fine with the key supplied.
Any help please, thanks John
GT6 Heat/Air distribution jammed
in Cooling System
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Rob, You need to remove the two black knobs on the sliders using a very small allen key, they just pull off.
Then remove the screws from the centre section of the dash, pull it off over the sliders far enough to see what is jamming.
Just watch you don't disturb any wires, I always remove the battery earth terminal first.
Hope that helps, John