Berty

Iain, Replacing the PRV incresed the overall oil pressure. Replacing the gauge stopped it mis-reading at lower pressures. So yes, both. Berty

JohnD - Apologies. I'm relatively new here. I thought I had profusely thanked everyone that had helped me within the text, but I did not realise there was a separate system to award thanks to individuals. I have now awarded you your requested thanks..... Berty

Thanks Richard - yes I'm realising that not all oils are equal. There's a distributor of Penrite not so far from me so I'll stick to that in the future.

Thanks - I will stick with the 20/50. I will also stick with the upgraded spring in the pressure relief valve, it seems fine. Thanks all. Berty

The Jury is in. It's taken longer than expected to get to fix it (mainly weather!). To recap I had 30-35psi when cold on idle and 0psi on hot idle. Under load it was about 40-45psi and the oil light never came on once the engine was started. I assembled the bits I thought I would need and... Changed the oil pressure switch. I wasn't really expecting this to do anything but it was quick and cheap. Sure enough the oil light still didn't come on when the gauge was reading 0psi, but I wanted to make sure. Changed the oil pressure relief valve. I replaced all of it as again, it's quite cheap. I went for the upgraded spring but must admit I'm struggling to find out at what pressure this will actually kick in. Oil pressure now 60-65 at cold and under load, but still only 8-10 at hot tick over. Stuck a different gauge on and now 70 psi under load and 25 psi at hot tick over. Looking good. Tested the gauges using a compressor - not the most accurate of tests, but you can see the difference. My original gauge was OK at higher pressures, but at 25psi was reading 5-10psi. Also the gauge was a bit "sticky". Ordered and fitted a replacement gauge (the test one was not mine and was not was as graduated). Cold tick over 60-65psi Under load - 65-75psi Hot tick over 20-25psi I may stick in some 20/60 oil at next change which may also help. Thanks for all your suggestions - with your help I think it's sorted relatively cheaply. But should I be reverting to the standard oil pressure relief spring ??

Thanks everyone for your input - really appreciated. I'm gearing up to work on the problem on Sunday (hopefully). I will report back how I get on. Thanks again.

Thanks everyone for your input. Very Helpful. I will recondition the relief valve - I'll get a new spring and piston. I have certainly not replaced these and I don't know if they were done when the engine was rebuilt some time in the 90s. I'll see if that gets the pressure up. If it does then I'll change the oil if it doesn't stay up. Otherwise I will be getting some work done over the winter and will add bearings to the list..... I will report back......

Thanks for getting back to me Clive. I noticed this at the end of last season, it may have been like it since I got the car 3 years ago - not sure. Earlier this year I did a basic service and changed the oil filter and oil. Thought this may have alleviated the issue as the pressure seemed fine - but I hadn't worked out that it was only when hot that the problem appears. So the oil change and oil filter change made no difference. Probably only done around 200 miles since then. The oil pressure light does not come on (could have sworn this was orange though). I will do another test today, but the problem seems consistent. Sounds like the oil pressure relief valve may need a service......

Hopefully someone can advise. I have read up on this and the suggestions range from "don't worry about it" to "rebuild the engine"! Herald 13/60 When starting from cold the idle oil pressure is around 30 PSI, which seems to be about correct. As the engine gets hotter the idle oil pressure drops. Eventually reaching 0 PSI if stuck in traffic. At 3000 revs it's always 35+ PSI whether hot or cold, it's only the PSI at idle that changes. The car is not losing oil and runs fine. I have recently changed the oil which has made no difference. I am using "Comma CLA20505L 5L 20W/50 Classic Motor Oil" (this was recommended somewhere, but can't remember where). So my first thought is the oil itself, getting too thin when hot. Any recommendations? Second thought would be the oil pump, but I'd rather not change that if it doesn't need it. Are these symptoms a problem anyway? Thanks in advance.

Thanks everyone - yes - the old ones were halogens - it was written on them ! I just presumed they were not. I have purchased and fitted domed ones - all good... Cheers Berty

Ah - I thought you meant the split pin jobbies. i will look into the official locks....

I have bonnet locks and they're good, but a bit ugly..... I'm sure I'm not the first to do this mod, but I searched the forum and couldn't find it so I just thought I'd share.....

There are sealed beams here... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Herald-Genuine-Lucas-7-Sealed-Beam-Halogen-Conversion-H4-Headlights-/271330283604?fits=Model%3AHerald&hash=item3f2c8b9054:g:WPAAAOxyRNJSkmqV I think I drove once at dusk last year, so I don't plan in doing too much night driving.

Thanks Clive. Yes, I think I would like to keep the original look. Are there any Halogen lights which have an approximation of the original lens ?

I bought my Herald last year and returned it home to the UK from Germany. It is fitted with LHD headlamp lenses (see pic) and I need to change these. I'm looking for advice..... Should I upgrade them to halogen? There seems to be quite a lot of choice. Can anyone recommend anything ? Thanks in advance, Berty

Just thought I'd share a slight mod my mate Rob came up with for the bonnet Catch on my 13/60. My latest Herald suffered from the classic "Bonnet catch pops open when going along" syndrome. In order to prevent this we have angle grinded a small radius on the catch for the roller to sit it - this holds it much better and prevents it popping open (see pic) Don't go too mad with the grinder though otherwise you'll never get the bonnet open again ! The purists may not approve, but my bonnet has not popped open for the last year so I'm very pleased. Cheers... Berty

Thanks everyone on this. I have decided to go for the good clean and plastic vacuum bag option in the end. I aired an empty boot over the winter and then did a test, running the engine for a good while with the boot closed, to see if the fuel smell returned and it did not. I have used a couple of sheets of MDF to level out the boot floor and bought a new boot carpet from Rimmers and it's pretty good. I will get the vacuum bags for longer journeys. Cheers

I am on my third Herald and I have had an issue with all of them I want to finally nail. The "smell" of a Herald is one of the evocative aromas I know (a combination of petrol, oil and rotting carpet). This is fine in the naturally aired cockpit, but the problem is that anything soft and absorbent you put in the boot (sleeping bag / clothes etc) will carry that smell with it. We're looking to do some camping and also drive through France later this year so we will need extensive use of our pongy boot. I have stripped out the carpet in the boot and have propped it open for the winter to let it air and to see if there is a fuel leak (I don't think there is). Anyone got any advice?

Colin - many thanks for this. Bought and fitted - perfect. Now I just need to find some sun visors. I used to have a '68 13/60 with the same trim and it had white visors. This is a '69 so they may have changed, but they are such more quality. Maybe the mirror fell off at some point and someone has used a whole tube of glue to stick it back on! I will continue my quest..... Chris

I need a couple of parts for my Triumph Herald 13/60. I need two white sun visors (I think mine have been replaced somewhere along the line and are horrible - glue everywhere). I also need the centre trim piece for the windscreen - highlighted here.... Anyone got any suggestions where I can get these ? Thanks Chris

Thanks for your reply Richard - I had been pondering the passenger vs luggage security conundrum..... What I hadn't realised is that these luggage racks are not bolted on but have some sort of brackets which clip onto the boot? Does anyone have any experience of this ? Thanks Berty

I have just purchased a jasmine 13/60 convertible and am having some minor bodywork done to start it off in tip top condition. i wish to fit a luggage rack at the same time so we have more space to go camping. Anyone got any recommendations? i prefer the look of the wooden slats on this one - http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-RX1330 to the all stainless steel ones..... Cheers Berty