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Vit6iw

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About Vit6iw

  • Birthday 11/09/1951

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lake, IW
  • Cars Owned
    1963, Vitesse 6 Convertible.

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  1. That's correct, usually seen on centurions banners.
  2. I've got an SPQR tappet adjuster. Bought it back in the early 70s when I had my MG1100. I think Gunson must have taken them over as I've got one of theirs too. I bought some stuff off a mate, a Colortune was also in with it. I always used it back then and I've used it on my Vit6 after I'd removed the rocker shaft to fit new push-rods. It works a treat, I've never had a problem with it 😉
  3. There was an article in the club magazine recently where Dave Rumens stated that the correct cap for the Vit6 expansion tank was 7lb. Having a 13lb cap on explains why my tank has been leaking! I now have the correct cap fitted to the tank which leaks the least. I now need to get the cracks brazed up on my other tank. Denis
  4. It started off alright and only began to judder when it was hot. I was doing a lot of slow driving in traffic queues. I'm hoping that it's just because it's new and will settle down with a bit of use. I'm not panicking yet! Denis
  5. Yesterday I placed two M8 washers under the pivot pin (total thickness 3.2mm) and I can now engage first and reverse. Problem solved! I tied them together with dental tape so they could be retrieved if they fell into the bellhousing. It was a good job I did this as they did slip out a couple of times, it was difficult getting the pivot pin back into its housing. The good thing about it is that I didn't have to take the gearbox out. I went out for a drive and as the car got hot I was experiencing a bit of clutch judder. I hope it won't get worse. Cheers Pete. Denis
  6. Yes it is me Pete. I'm fine thanks. I've pulled the pivot out of its housing to mic it up, 0.74" o/d (I couldn't find my metric mic) which is 18.8mm. A 5/16" UNF plain washer is 0.625" (15.9mm) o/d and 0.72" (1.83mm) thick or an M8 washer is 17mm o/d and 1.6mm nominal thickness. I reckon I'll try two M8 washers and see how that goes. I know what you mean about the leverage, moving the pivot point out 3.2mm should provide sufficient movement to free the clutch plate. Another way to get round it would be to make a 4mm thick annular disc to fit between the bearing and its carrier but the gearbox would have to come out. Thanks again. Denis
  7. Thanks for the reply Pete. You have confirmed what has been going through my mind. I didn't actually compare the new bearing with the old when I got it, it looked the same so I never gave it a second thought. This could very well be the cause of my problem as I'm of the opinion that something has changed dimensionally meaning that the throwout arm is in the wrong position. The friction plate and clutch housing are NOS so I didn't think that they could be at fault but the bearing is a remade one. I had thought that putting washers under the pivot pin would move it to the correct position but wasn't sure about doing it. The other thought was to make a new bearing carrier to move the release bearing closer to the clutch cover. I think I should be able to remove the pivot pin without removing the gearbox then put some washers in to make up the 4mm. Or make up a 4mm thick plug of the correct diameter. It'll have to be mild steel so that if I drop it into the bellhousing I can retrieve it with a magnet. Cheers. Denis
  8. I've changed the clutch on my Vit6 but am having problems with clutch drag. I can't engage first when the engine is running. If I engage first and then start the engine the car doesn't creep forward. When I depress the clutch pedal it doesn't touch the floor but the throw-out arm does touch the bell-housing which suggests that the throw-out arm is bent (unlikely). I did inspect it when I stripped it down and it looked as new but there again I didn't have anything to compare it with. I didn't have this problem with the previous clutch. It's a NOS coil spring clutch cover and friction plate. Has anyone got any suggestions as to what the problem is please?
  9. I didn't make Drive It Day in 2016 but I was back on the road soon after. The replacement header tank leaked too! I was at the IW Classic Car Show in Newport (IW) September and got talking to a chap about the leak problem. He said his dad soldered this type of thing up and if I gave it to him he'd get him to do mine. I gave him my other tank the following day when we met at the Ryde venue. He is from Bournemouth. I got the tank back, all the seams are nicely done but it still leaks! There's a split on the bend. I've tried Radweld and petrol tank sealer to no avail. Brazing is the only option I think.
  10. Hi. I was a regular user of the old forum from 2007 until 2012. I stopped using it when I had to take my 1963 Vitesse 6 Convertible off the road due to the brake pipe to the rear wheels corroding and I lost all the brake fluid. Not having a garage and being involved with other things prevented me from sorting it out but I'm determined to get it back on the road in time for Drive it Day 2016. I've just registered on this new forum and this is my first post here. When I first got the car the header tank was leaking through a seam when it was under pressure. I got another tank to replace it and I found that I was loosing coolant everytime I stopped. I put this down to having a 7lb cap instead of the correct 13lb cap. I have a 13lb cap so will be using it when the car is back on the road again. I'd like to hear of anyone else's experiences with the brass header tank fitted to the early Vit 6. Has anyone had any problems with this set-up? Denis
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