brian GT6.
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Posts posted by brian GT6.
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I have a GT6 overdrive diff from my 1971 mk3. I got a reconditioned one from Jigsaw a few years ago and never sent mine back so paid the premium. Before it came out it was working, a little noisy and a bit leaky. I didn't need to recon it but did a full mechanical recondition including engine.
If anyone wants it for 50 quid they can collect from shoeburyness in essex.
Many thanks Brian
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I work in Paris and have a house in brittany.
In 30 years of driving to and within france i've never put a GB or Uk sticker on the car. I've never been stopped for not having one. I was stopped in Paris to have my Crit'air sticker checked and it was fine.
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On 12/07/2023 at 18:37, johny said:
I think the quality of the application made a big difference as well - some technicians just did the easy, obvious bits and signed the car off....
I think so. Mine has holes drilled in the sills and in other places. Ive since covered it inside and out with modern cavity wax, forgotten the brand, but it comes from Frosts in aerosols with tubes.
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ened up getting two WAS0 blanks froom ebay and the local guy cut them. The keycode was for the door keys.
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Thanks guys have tried key2code first off and if that doesn't work will try locals.
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I need to get a second key cut, not least because the only key I have has a slight crack on it.
There is a code WAS0 or WASO on the key itself.
However there is also a dog tag with the code NH2207.
Any suggestions on how to get the right blank for cutting?
thanks
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Mine was ziebarted from new and has no rust. It was kept in a garage all the time though.
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thanks everyone, chris.b's suggestions look great. As to permission, taking a child, even a grown up one, always gets some brownie points.
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So, I am doing a road trip in a couple of weeks with my daughter in the GT6. Going across the ferry from portsmouth to st malo then taking the back roads down to Bordeaux, camping. I've got the club peter james insurance which comes with european accident breakdown insurance.
The question is what tools and spares should I bring?
The car has had lots of mechanical work over the years, jigsaw engine, recon diff, cv joint conversion driveshafts, new brake cylinders, new calipers, new wishbones new dampers all round, electronic ignition distributor (supplied by jigsaw), in fact the only bit of the car that isn't new mechanically is the gearbox, which is fairly quiet.
However, i've never driven it further than 100 miles before. It doesn't like getting hot in traffic on a hot day.
Any advice appreciated. Looking for a reasonable list of things to take.
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Spot on. Blew out the float valves and pumped a bit of petrol through and it stopped leaking. I think I need wing nuts on the float bowl screws.. Previously when I had needle valve problems the petrol came out of the front of the carb mouths.
I had replaced the needle valves a couple of weeks ago after having the rubber slivers from changing the fuel hoses. I wonder if the new needle float valves were sticking.
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So i've checked again.
It's not coming from the link pipe but from somewhere in the choke mechanism or choke spindle. It floods out when the float chambers are full. I'll check again the needle vale but that normally causes petrol to come out the front of the carb.
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1 hour ago, Iain T said:
Brian,
I agree stay with the twin Strombergs, the extra oomph with triples on a 2L engine is minimal for all the fuss and expense. You would be better off spending money on sorting out the head.
Is the leak coming from the choke on the front carb? I have mucho experience with this and there are several resent posts! It may just be a perished link pipe, that's the one from the choke to the rear carb.
Iain
Yes that's where it's coming from. I'll go and have another look
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So came back in the gt6 smelling a bit of petrol. Lifted the bonnet when I got home and sure enough petrol dripping from the bottom of the air filter. No problem I thought must be sticking float needle valve I'll just whip the float chambers off. However, when I finished and restarted I saw petrol pouring from the front carb. However, not from the front of the carb as it does when the needle valve leaks but from the side of the carb, the side facing the rear carb.
How comprehensive are the rebuild kits and any ideas of the leak?
Half tempted to go for SUs or triple webers.
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Ok, so knocking noise solved.
Started her up and getting regular noise again , tiny bit worried it was a small end.
Rocker cover off , no noise and tappets sound perfectly adjusted since I double checked them. Rocker cover back on with engine running , no noise.
Tighten bolts slightly and no noise.
Tighten middle bolt up to torque and noise starts. Can slightly feel a tap. So undo but half a turn and noise goes away.
So it was the Rocker cover slightly contacting a tappet. Not hard enough to mark it though . Sorted!
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It's a tin cover but I might have tightened it down more than it was before. Will try the feeler guage
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So my gt6 engine has finished running in and one of my winter jobs was to re-torque the head.
I did this and then re-set the valve clearances. On start up I heard a slight tapping/knocking sound. It hadn't been doing this before so I thought maybe I did a valve clearance incorrectly, or maybe missed one.
So, off with the rocker cover again and re-doing the clearances. Maybe one was a tiny bit out - say 12 thou instead of 10 but nothing much. I started the engine with the rocker cover off and no noise. So I thought must have been the clearance. Put the cover back on and I can hear the tap/knock again. Took it to the shops to get essentials and gave it full throttle in second when warm and it sounded silky smooth from within the car. Yet in the garage I can hear this slight knock at tickover.
Any thoughts?
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All done on both carbs and no leaks any more. Would be nice to replace the float needle valves at some stage. Float chambers were surprisingly clean with fuel and just a couple of black rubber slivers in the one nearest the bulkhead.
Just got to redo the valve clearances and change the oil and she's good for a summer of reversing in and out of the garage.
I've just worked out that the only mechanical parts, including engine, radiator, exhaust, propshaft, suspension , brakes, CV joint replacement and diff that I haven't replaced over the last three years is the gearbox.
I never intended to replace everything it just happened.
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Taken the float bowl off the carb that had petrol pouring out. It was the one furthest fromthe fuel intake at the gearbox end so it might have been slivers from the hose between the two carbs. There were some black bit in the fuel bowl. The cut off pin was also stuck. As soon as I pulled it it started moving freely. When I pushed it up it cut off fuel from me fiddling with the pump and when I let go fuel poured out. If I put it back together again is it likely to get stuck again? It seems to move freely now. Can you buy replacements?
Any I'll let all the petrol dry up put it back together tomorrow and give it a lash.
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Thanks guys too help as ever. Will report back
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Nothing coming from the bottom of the carbs either so must be out of the mouth of the carbs
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I've just replaced all the fuel hose in the gt6 with nice club sourced ethanol resistant stuff. Just started her up and there was a flood of fuel coming out of the bottom of the standard air filter. Nothing coming out of the new hoses. I tried tapping the side of the carbs in case it was sticking needles in the float chambers. I've never taken Stromberg's apart so any suggestions for diagnosis and fix?
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On 03/03/2020 at 23:14, DrKai said:
They're multiplying
Looking great work.
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Thanks, will do it now before it comes out of hibernaton.
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I've just done 500 ish miles on my rebuilt engine and i'm wondering whether to re-torque the head or not. I know this used to be the done thing but have read that it's not necessary. Should I do it? Half of me thinks disturbing something that doesn't need disturbing might be more harm than good.
GT6 Overdrive diff.
in Parts Wanted
Posted
I should have said, " I have an overdrive GT6 for which I have a spare diff."
I will list on ebay.