Jump to content

brian GT6.

Forum User
  • Posts

    79
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by brian GT6.

  1. I'm just replacing all the fuel hoses on the gt6 with ethanol resistant hoses. From the end of the solid pipe as it enters the engine bay to the fuel pump I want to put in an inline filter before the fuel pump. I'm not sure whether to use on of the glass ones, or one of the cheap plastic ones. As I see it the glass ones have rubber o ring seals so those would have to be ethanol resistant whilst the plastic one have paper elements. Any thoughts?
  2. Just checked and there is no rubber seal, or any seal, on the radiator cap so it wouldnt suck anything back. Assuming that's the problem.
  3. One of the winter jobs I want to do is replace the current rubber fuel hose with ethanol resistant stuff. Does anyone know the internal diameters I need to order. I know I could go and measure but i'm sure you clever people know it off pat. From memory there is rubber from the tank to solid pipe, I think from the solid pipe to the fuel pump, then from the fuel pump to the carbs, then between the carbs. Is it all the same diameter? Thanks in advance.
  4. So i've just run in my rebuilt 2.0 litre engine, or at least got it to the stage where I need to re-torque the head down after a couple of hundred miles. The only thing wrong at all with the car now is that I am losing water into the overflow bottle. There is no oil in the water it is still clear blue water/antifreeze. There is no water/mayo in the oil. So is this likely to be a weak spring on radiator cap. It is a new one but seems really easy to squeeze together or maybe pressurisation from a head gasket? The car runs at the same temperature as ever before and doesn't overheat.
  5. Very sad. mark is a great guy and I hope his health improves.
  6. Thanks. Good suggestion. Will report back
  7. Thanks but if I can't get a socket on the crank nut how do i turn the engine even with the plugs out?
  8. I'm re torquing the cylinder head on my mk3 gt6. Looking at adjusting the tappets afterwards it doesn't look easy to get a socket on the crank with the clearance between the crank and the radiator. What's the easiest way to turn the engine to adjust the valve clearances. It's on a ramp so I can't rock it backwards and forwards easily.
  9. Could be worse. Could have happened during a drive. Makes me want to replace all my rubber fuel hoses.
  10. Hi Ian, Sorry for the delay, just checked back on this post. The rolling road was the one that jigsaw use, Lynx AE in Wellingborough. In fact the starting power was 82.4 bhp which shocked me. I hadn't really thought that the car was slow to be honest. It was only when the head came off and was measured that it was the same thickness as a 2.5. I have a note in the history for a Triumph replacement engine very early in it's life, when it was a year old, so wonder if it was a parts special? It was a full rebuild with a GT6 head and head work. I think jigsaw outsource the block machining and headwork but Mark built and balanced my engine. I can't remember which exhaust manifold he put on but it looks very nice. I don't think it adds to the power very much to be honest. I'm happy with 115.4 on the same rolling road-, although i've only driven it 20 miles as I don't want to get salt on it and it's now in my garage where i'm painting the bulkhead sides. In that short journey it was the smoothness of the engine that struck me, which I guess is down to balancing. Looking forward to taking it out when the salt is washed off the roads and attending a few events. I've done a lot of work on it over thee last two winters: - CV conversion from doughnuts - Polybushes all round - adjustable dampers all round - new discs, calipers and slave cylinders - new master cylinder - recon diff - new propshaft - recon uprated engine - new front suspension arms - new wheel bearings - new radiator The car was ziebatarted from new and doesn't have any rust so I thought it worth looking after. The only thing left I want to do is new bumpers in stainless.
  11. I don't think 1500 is that much when you see what is involved. Great that we can still get parts from Heritage. Long may it last.
  12. Actually the long story is that it must have been triumph. I've got the full history file of the car as i am the second owner. The engine was replaced under warranty in the first year by the Triumph dealer, so I can only assume that Triumph just sent them whatever they had spare at the time. Maybe they were short of engines and stuck a 2.5 head on a 2 litre block? Who knows.
  13. Just to show the OP what can be achieved, my GT6 2 litre was producing 85 bhp on the rolling road. But, long story, someone had put a 2.5 cylinder head on it without increasing the CR so it was running a very low CR and had 100,000 miles of wear. Having said that the rolling road guy said most standard 2 litres struggle to break 90 bhp. When Mark from Jigsaw rebuilt it we had to use a different block and head, it had the 25/65 cam which is good for the road. The head was gas flowed and and ported iirc I think went for just under 10:1 compression ratio. I've got a 6 3 1 stainless exhaust manifold and system which looks lovely. It was fully balanced and then rolling road setup with the original strombergs and standard cold air intake. Very pleased with 115 bhp which makes a big difference. Being nicely balanced it feels silky smooth as well. You could do that fairly cheaply although it cost me a fair bit as a kept adding things such as electronic ignition, brand new clutch, new slave and master cylinder etc etc. So I think a couple of thousand, if you did it yourself and had it rolling roaded, would see up from 88-95 bhp to 110-115 bhp which would certainly be noticeable. To go much more would start costing big bucks and would start to loose originality. Mine lloks completely standard just goes better and smoother and has the gt6 howl still. I might be tempted at some stage to go to twin SUs and maybe a more extreme cam as I think you could get to 130 ish with standard internals fairly easily.
  14. Hi, i'm going through everything that might cause a bit of clutch judder on my mk3 gt6. It's got new clutch and new master/slave cylinder. New engine mounts as well. The last thing on my list is new gearbox mount. To change this can I do it from underneath or is it best to take the gearbox tunnel off and do it from the top?
  15. I can see that. The wheel itself and tyre would absorb a fair amount of kinetic energy. Mind you the seat without a headrest would be a bigger problem.
  16. That's true. Mind you just looked at the spare and I think it's the original. Will replace it with a new one.
  17. Here is my GT6 MK3. It's now had CV joint conversion, all new polybushes, new dampers, new front springs, new propshaft, new radiator, reconditioned balanced uprated engine etc etc. Can't wait for spring.
  18. My main car doesn't have a spare wheel , just has one of those tins of squirty stuff. With the GT6, leaving the spare wheel and Jack behind would loose a fair chunk of weight from the car. What are other people's thoughts on leaving the spare wheel behind and going modern with a tin of squirty stuff? Would I notice the weight saving?
  19. I'm not sure that Mark would be too keen on me saying as we did a deal that included a load of other parts. To be honest all the quotes I had were coming in at over the 3k mark for the engine rebuild work. Someone mentioned that jigsaw farms the work out. That isn't quite correct. He gets some of the machining done externally but he builds and balances all the all the engines himself. There is a good utube clip where he built a gt6 engine for car SOS.
  20. I think I managed to get away with it by hiding most of the cost from the rest of the family. Also by arguing that it was a long term investment and would not lose money in the long run. One of thee biggest differences i've noticed in driving the car has been the new bushes and dampers. I think when the old ones are knackered it gives much more of a contrast. Looking forward to some French events next year.
  21. Just wanted to say that I was very very pleased with the job that Mark at jigsaw did. Also had 6 3 1 exhaust manifold fitted and the 25 65 camshaft fitted along with some light head work. It was all rolling road set up and produced 112 bhp with presumably a little more when run in. The biggest difference is how silky smooth the engine is, which I guess comes from properly balanced components. Anyway, now I cant wait for spring and non salted roads. Over the last two years I now done: CV conversion kit for rubber doughnuts. All new poly bushes on the rear new rear wheel bearings gaz adjustable dampers rear recon diff new propshaft recon, balanced, unleaded engine with full stainless manifold and exhaust new clutch new brake calipers polybush front suspension adjustable AVO coilovers on the front New uprated radiator Over winter I might try to have a go at the bulk head paintwork as it lets the car down a little.
  22. Thread revival. Will be using Jigsaw as i've been pleased with everything else they've done. Will report back
  23. There is a package that you can book through the courier.
  24. Back on topic, Trevor the Triumph comes back from the garage, as I didn't have time to do it myself, on Saturday Morning just in time for the start of summer It's all new running gear from the rear wheel until we hit the overdrive unit now. Maybe the engine and gearbox will get attention next year.
×
×
  • Create New...