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cggs

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    West central Scotland
  • Cars Owned
    Spitfire 1500 1979 - present day. Herald 1200 for a few years in 80's. Dolomite 1500HL for a few desperate months prior to it being scrapped. As sensible everyday cars a series of the now classic Saab 900 turbos, as a Triumph antidote a couple of Porsche 924/924S and an Alfa 147 2.0 twin spark with the nicest engine ever.

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  1. Dpoes anyone have any experience with these imported aluminium radiators? My Spitfire radiator needs replaced. They are abundant on ebay, look good and are cheap. Is there a catch?
  2. I am removing the oil cooler assembly from my Spit 1500 for cleaning and general maintenance. The oil takeoff uses a sandwich plate similar to the BL supplied accessory one. I am assuming that the adaptor thread in the engine block is a conventional clockwise to tighten thread. I am having dificulty getting it to move with very considerable torque and have become scared that I may damage a thread in the block. The wee adaptor thing that you would use normally to install a filter directly to the engine block screws in clockwise does it not?
  3. cggs

    Best exhaust system

    GT6 exhausts - looking at standard GT6 exhaust back boxes on the club shop, the Mk2 and Mk3 silencers are listed differently : Mk2 - BSTH88 £196 / Mk3 - BSTH 124 £188 Does anyone have any idea of the difference? This is for a cobbled up fit to a Spitfire so I can't peer underneath my GT6 to look since I don't have one, lovely as they are.
  4. cggs

    Best exhaust system

    Thanks for that. Rather what I expected. Standard it will be. I like the idea of Fench women.
  5. cggs

    Best exhaust system

    Exhaust noise revisited : Following a trip to a custom exhaust builder and taking account of advice above (before the banana diversion) it was easy to conclude that putting in a centre resonator in front of the twin boxes probably would be wasted effort. I have now decided to discard the twin boxes and graft a GT6 twin outlet conventional style transverse box on to the existing middle pipe (without centre resonator) in my tuned Spitfire 1500. I still want the engine to be able to breathe reasonably but also want my already diminshed hearing to get no worse. There is therefore a choice of standard or 'semi-sports' . Locally here in the Scottish rusting belt I have found no opportunity to do a live comparison so would welcome any informed opinion on this. I suppose that if less noise is the priority then the standard box is the way to go but if the semi-sports was reasonable......
  6. cggs

    Best exhaust system

    Thanks but not quite ready for that Richard. It does have the 4 branch manifold and a few other performance tweaks and I would be reluctant to put a standard exhaust on without having tried to mitgate the present uproar. I think I will take it to one of those custom exhaust places and see what they can fit between the centre rails even with a bit of metal bashing.
  7. cggs

    Best exhaust system

    Can anyone advise me on the maximum diameter of resonator / GT6 style centre silencer that can be fitted between the chassis rails - even with some tweaking of the chassis rail flanges? I have a Spitfire 1500 with an old but still intact S/S Triumphtune wheelbarrow system with a 2 inch centre pipe. Being old and having recently resurrected the car I find it far too loud but woud be reluctant to throw away the rest of the system. I am considering having a local exhaust expert make me a centre silencer.
  8. Thanks. That what I thought. I have done one side with heavy duty rubble sack polythene stuck down with double sided tape. I will send the precut items back as unfit for purpose. Although the seal is not perfect what with door handle gaps etc it seems to make more sense to stick them to the door rather than merely to attach them to the door board to which I have added a coat of clear varnish anyway.
  9. I have obtained a pair computer pre-cut polythene sheet door liners for my Spitfire. The precut sheet clip holes match exactly to the clip insertion holes on the door board rather than to the holes on the door for the clip prong insertion. It is therefore impossible to tape them to the door and have the hole line up. This implies that they appear to be designed to attach to the rear of the door panel itself prior to clipping that panel to the door frame. My understanding was that the plastic liner should be taped to the door itself and the door panel fitted after to that. Which is correct and does it matter anyway?
  10. This morning I have found that the trick with the stiff inner sill carpet is to play a heat gun over the back side where it is plasticised - it softens nicely and you can induce (mould ) a permanent bend in it, checking the fit as you go. Working along the length for each bend at a time takes a lot of patience but eventually you have something that fits ok.
  11. Ok Doug. Thanks for that. I have all the plastic bag stuff on the inside so will leave the topsides for just the carpet although I may experiment with some strategically placed bits of silentcoat or underly. This interior refitting business is taking longer than I expected and the moulded carpet set is quite unwieldy especially for those bits on the inner sills. Maybe a bit of self moulding with a heat gun will help
  12. Did the Spitfire 1500 originally have any sound deadening material under the carpet over the gearbox tunnel? It's been so long since I threw all that stuff away that I cannot remember. Trying to put it all back together now...
  13. Thanks for all those comments. Seems like it's not as bad as I feared. Am really keen not to have to take off the main tunnel cover as unfortunately I've just re-sealed it down. Dropping the propshaft will be interesting as there is a 2 inch exhaust drainpipe running not far beneath it.... I think I may be inclined to let someone with garage hoist to take on the job as grovelling under the car has lost what little appeal it ever had.
  14. Slight seep from the output flange area of the overdrive on my Spitfire 1500. Does anyone know if the output shaft seal can be replaced in-situ or does the transmission have to come out? I can imagine that pullers might be needed to get the flange off. I suspect this is a forlorn hope....
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