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Conor L

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Everything posted by Conor L

  1. It's been a little while since I updated this but that doesn't mean things have ground to a halt. The main thing that happened is the engine. For a fair few months now I've been battling with a very irritating noise, to cut a long story short I discovered a lack of oil pressure so out come the engine for a tear down and assessment, Whipped the head off and all seemed pretty normal, removed the sump and number 1 big end cap revealed this That might explain my loss of oil pressure! Dropped it all of at the machine shop around 3 weeks ago. Chased it up this morning and the news isn't good! He's said I'd better off finding a replacement crank and the bores need an additional 20 thou taking off them too which is fine however nowhere seems to have stock of +40 pistons. So I'm in a bit of a pickle as you can imagine. I know Moss sell recon cranks however I'm thinking it'll be more cost effective to find a replacement engine and use all of my good bits on that instead. What's your opinion? In other news I've stripped the boot lid and doors back to bare metal ready for paint, also I'm having the bonnet acid dipped after all of the local blasting companies refused the work I'm expecting that back next week so we shall see what I'm left with! And finally we have some sad news. If you've been following this thread you may remember a good mate of mine helped with starting the engine and also fitting the windscreen, unfortunately he passed away after a very short fight with cancer 3 weeks ago so RIP John Slater 22/5/21
  2. Well I've had a listen today with my stethoscope and cannot put my finger on this noise! To be honest I've got to the point now where I'm just going to leave it and focus on sorting other things out before it goes back to have the rest of the panels painted. It's running nicely after a fiddle with the carbs and pulls really well so hopefully the engine is strong and whatever is rattling around will eventually fall off and the noise will go haha. Many thanks for all the advice it has been invaluable! I know this isn't the right page but I'm in need of some richer fuel needles as I can't get these ABT 1s rich enough when trying to set the mixture. Specs are stainless tubular manifold, foam filters, mk3 profile cam, head skim (if that'll make any difference) what would you guys recommend based on experience? Also will the dashpot springs need changing too?
  3. Haven't had the chance to take a look as I've been working and the weather has been awful. Will have another listen around with my stethoscope later on. I know the fuel pump lever arm is in the right place but I'll still listen anyway. Something that has been previously mentioned is piston slap which has gotten into my mind however I would've thought I'd have seen that on the bores when the head come off 🤔
  4. Just had a little play around with no joy I'm afraid. @Pete Lewis just tried to push the gearstick into all 4 gears without the clutch which made no difference unfortunately. @Iain T I've previously ran with no belt (runs so smooth amazing what a difference it can make) again no different also listened with the stethoscope all seemed normal. To check my theory of mixture I backed off the fast idle screws so the revs wouldn't increase when the choke was pulled. Drove it around my close (clocked up a mile now aha) and only made a difference on full choke which is when it ran rough (expected) I did also hold the revs right up (3k) and you could hear a slight noise then too then it was tick tick tick tick as the revs come back down. Thought that was enough for the neighbours and put it away
  5. Yeah thats why I took the sump off to reassure myself like you say its annoying but nothing major which is a plus!
  6. Also just going to throw in an odd ball here when driving with the choke out there's no noise at all and pulls even better but as soon as you push it back in again you get the tick tick tick tick as you let off. It's running standard needles and I am aware I need to run some richer needles so maybe the fueling being too lean could cause an issue? I could be talking nonsense though
  7. Well think it's about time I updated this. Finally manged to get some free time to reassemble the engine replacing the cam followers, pushrod all the gaskets etc. I thought beens I had to drain the oil anyway I'd whip the sump off and inspect the bearings, all seemed normal with no signs of any wear and the little ends seemed good too. Remeasured the end float just to be on the safe side again all seemed good and within spec. I've also had the manifold blanking plug thread sorted so that is now nicely sealed. Fired into life today, reset the ignition timing and... noise is still there 😕 but not as bad as it was which I guess in 1 way is a plus. Just give it a spin around the close the funny thing is under load all is good no noise engine pulls really well and feels strong but as soon as you lift off the throttle it goes tick tick tick tick. I'm happy the internals are good so I guess the fault finding continues until the car goes away again at the end of this month for the remainder of the paintwork to be completed.
  8. Just been out to have a look at the push pods and cylinder head, number 3 push rod is slightly bent remaining are fine. Cylinder head on the other hand is quite black/oily especially in number 4. Head was converted to unleaded, new valve guides, checked over and skimmed by a reputable company here in the Midlands (as seen on car sos) pistons tops are dry with just a bit of carbon on them. Is it possible that the head is leaking oil?
  9. @Pete Lewis I've been doing some thinking about this and I reckon they've been a bit sticky might be related to the engine being say for over a year ½ before starting eventhough assembly lube was used I don't think being sat for that time would help. The holes where the followers sit are clean & dirt free. @daverclasper my stethoscope was about £6 from the bay of E and is a must for finding noises accurately as nothing was noticeably obvious with a screwdriver. The noise was coming from just under the engine number, next the the core plug on the right side of the distributor very very noticeable with the scope. It was a very loud tap whereas the front lot were quiet.
  10. I literally live by this! I've wasted no time at all this evening and pulled the head off which reminded me why I love these cars compared with the modern stuff I work with. Unfortunately I was unable to get the followers out prior to removing the head. My findings so far are that the bores are really clean with no scoring which for some reason I was worried about, some carbon on the piston tops which I expected, block surface is good, fished the followers out and can see that number 7 in particular hasn't been spinning with some vertical marks all round it number 6 is similar but not as bad, all the rest seem OK as does the cam lobes. Question is where to go from here? Replace all the followers for standard or 1s with the little hole in? Got a bit late tonight so I'll inspect the head and straightness of the push rods tomorrow after I've service my neighbours Audi. (Number 7 is on the left in the last picture)
  11. I previously tried sliding the followers out with a magnet when I checked previously with no joy as the head gasket covers up the holes a tad. Not to worry though as it'll give me the opportunity to have the inlet manifold sorted and I may as well upgrade the head studs whilst I'm there.
  12. Today the noise that has been driving me mad has been identified! Stethoscope arrived this morning and it appears that number 6, 7 cam followers are tapping like mad. Fine on initial start but after about a minute of running they are not sounding happy. Bit frustrating as they were new along with the cam when I built the engine but relieved its nothing too serious. Also funny how I didn't hear this with my trusty screwdriver so the Stethoscope was a good investment. Thanks for all your patience and advice. Thinking I might pull the head off and sort them out properly instead of just leaving it. Car isn't due to go away until the end of next month anyway so it'll give me something to do haha.
  13. Tonight's bed time reading is sorted, thanks @Bob Owen I have ordered a compression tester and a proper automotive stethoscope which hopefully be more effective than my trusty screwdriver. Will update in due course.
  14. Or maybe fit a louder exhaust 🤔
  15. Pleased that I'm not the only 1 experiencing a funny noise. Just as a bit of an update I decided bite the bullet and upgrade to the duplex timing chain set up as I wasn't happy with the amount of slack in the previous chain (which was new!) I reset the cam timing using the workshop bible which confirmed that the timing was out (the engine was running a little rough just before I inspected the old chain) reassembled everything including a new water pump as my nos item was leaking, fired it up, reset the ignition timing and it runs wayy smoother than before. Unfortunately the noise still persists 😕 Another thought I've had is the head has had some work done including hardened valve seats and new guides so I'm thinking about doing a compression test to see if everything is in check there. Engine seems healthy running and pull quite well so if the compression doesn't highlight anything and I can't see anything then I might just run it and see what happens. Car has been booked back in to have the remaining panels sprayed at the end of March so that gives some plenty of time to ponder.
  16. Following Pete's advice I've removed the timing cover to have a look and see whats going on before this I did spin the engine over by hand and I'm happy to say that it turns over very smoothly with good compression which I am happy with. 1 thing i did notice was there's a bit of free movement around 5 degrees or so when rocking the crank back and forth (this was before I removed the cover) anyway I removed the cover and measured the slack in the new chain using a straight edge and tape measure result is 9mm of slack so just under that tolerance according to the book. Removed the cam sprocket and the chain does feel a bit loose when fully wrapped around. I was expecting to see a bolt loose on the sprocket as Pete also suggested which in turn would also answer the 5 degrees free movement but all the bolts were nice and tight which I guess is a good thing. I'll leave some pictures of my findings. Back of the sprocket is smooth and seated nicely on the cam (new camshaft) there was a bit of condensation inside the cover which I'm not worried about. Chain & tensioner were new as part of the rimmer bros rebuilt kit I ordered over 2 years ago. If the chain is at fault would it be worth upgrading to the Duplex set up or leave it as stock? I do feel like we've eliminated quite a few possible causes now fingers crossed we can find the cause of this soon.
  17. @Pete Lewis I did check the starter when I took it off last night all seemed ok which I thought because I had it rebuilt last year. I need to take the front off anyway as the water pump is leaking so I could easily take the timing cover off whilst I'm there, good suggestion! @Iain T noise is the same with the clutch up or down.
  18. Just been out to have another look, wanted to check the flywheel and clutch pressure plate making sure they hadn't come loose with the starter removed, all seems normal I even turned the engine over by hand checking to see if any of the clutch bolts had come loose again all seemed fine. I've pulled off a HT lead 1 at a time to see if the noise goes away but noise still persists. I've even whipped the fan belt off to rule out the water pump and alternator again noise is still there. My trusty long screwdriver has come out to have another listen on the sump, around the distributor, bellhousing/engine back plate along the centre of the block all sounds normal. Noise is definitely louder on the drivers side than the passenger.
  19. 1 thing that might be worth mentioning is that on a cold start there is a definite knock for a couple of seconds then goes away. From what I've read that because the oil filters don't have a anti drain flap it takes longer to build the oil pressure because the engine has to refill the filter so I assume this is 'normal' unless a filter with the anti drain flap is fitted. Not sure if this could be related but like Pete says it's a different sound to that. Could be some fuel for thought.
  20. I guess that seems more likely too if something has come loose during engine running which would be the most likely culprit based on its definitely louder towards middle/rear and lower down?
  21. Note video was with engine on fast idle around 1300 rpm
  22. New Mikalor exhaust clamps arrived yesterday so seeing as the weather was actually dry today I thought I'd tackle the exhaust, back section off, down pipe piece off and I also slackened off the manifold too on the head, managed to bring the 1 pipe down a bit so at least there is now clearance between it and the gearbox, new clamps fitted, exhaust roughly fitted to aligned and tightened everything up... Grrr noise still there! Exhaust isn't hitting anywhere and I can fit a flat blade screwdriver between the exhaust and gearbox think it's safe to say now that the exhaust can be ruled out. There is no obvious note change at the tail pipe end either. Interestingly though it's definitely louder underneath the car around the engine area as this video shows. I don't have the funds at the moment to pull the engine out, strip it down and have it inspected due to being made redundant again thanks to this blooming virus just before Christmas but I think it's looking more likely that this will happen. 20210121_155354.mp4
  23. The rear wheel arch covers are something I forgot to capture the progress of. Yes they were a pain to get the finish I have achieved. I purchased them with the kit I bought from Owen, I believe he makes his slightly larger to aid fitting which I guess did help to an extent. I initially mock fitted them using some magnets, made some marks and smoothed it over as if I was gluing it down. I placed them on the radiator for a while to allow some stretch, applied glue to the lower half of the arch and cover, lined up my marks on the flatter side and smoothed over, I then stretched the cover the rounded section while smoothing, bit of a fiddle but managed it. For the top section I pretty much did the same applied glue and then I stretched the cover up into the top corner and smoothed and managed a crease free finish well on the bits you can see haha but the creases I did get were in the excess which I just trimmed off. That's what I did hope this help @Peter Truman @NonMember @Colin Lindsay I do agree that the speakers would be more efficient if they were the other way up however I think the exhaust note will overpower them especially with the roof down. @Casper yes I did think the columns are hight adjustable I'll have a fiddle later steering wheel isn't staying anyway apart from being a nice ornament on my garage wall.
  24. Progress on the interior continues starting with the rear cockpit boards in particular the rear board. When I purchased the car it came fitted with a rather nice late 70s Sharp cassette player as covered in the previous update however along with that were a lovely pair of matching speakers and because they were in the car when I purchased it I wanted to retain them as part of its history. I'd really like to know more about this cars history as we've only really been able to piece some bits together I know it's a long shot but if anybody remembers the reg HWB 5N I'd be interested to know. Enough of Who do you think you are Triumph special back onto the speakers. 1st off I located them roughly where they were and and drilled 4 small holes for the self tappers and 1 for the wiring, I then inserted wiring through said hole (stop it) Gave the old screws a fresh coat of paint And here's the finished item, Looks rather nice I think. Now I know that when the roof is down they'll be covered and I won't be able to hear them but I'm trying to keep as many original features as I can which has been pretty tough on a car that's now mostly new. I should also note that I used some velcro tape to secure the rear panel and a couple of self tapping screws to secure the quarter panels. Following this I repainted and fitted the rear wing trim along with a new rear number plate, Only 1 thing left to complete the interior, fit my freshly retrimmed seats but 1st I needed to make some holes in the carpet using my weapon on choice which was very effective, Seats in (headrests aren't fully finished just yet hence some wrinkles) I can confirm that the seats are pretty comfortable and feel so much better than before however I do think I need a smaller steering wheel, And just to finish off with some random pictures and walkaround video, Just need the rest of the panels back now. Conor
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