AidanT

A bit of thread drift here, but Pete (or anyone) do you have a decent copy of the Standard Triumph Hardware catalog? I don't know if anyone has done this, but I was thinking it would be useful to cross match the Spare parts catalog with this so that you would know the sizes of the parts the Spares catalog refers to. In that way you could order a kit of parts for specific jobs from places lile namrick rather than paying through the nose on eBay for a new nuts and bolts Aidan

I think they are the original machine set screws btw. I've seen New sets on eBay and they look the same. Maybe my lack of knowledge in what to call them https://goo.gl/images/WkxF9a Aidan

Pete. What's this cone cutter device? I've never come across one. More to the point as I've just Googled it, how do they work? Aidan

Hi Pete do you know what sizes of countersunk set screws were used on triumphs? I would like to buy a mixture as they are very expensive when you buy small quantities. Do you know any suppliers that would make up an assortment or that already sells such a set. There are a few that sell bolt sets for the cars Aidan

Which would you recommend Pete or would it be better to invest in a tap and die set?

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My door locks were fitted some time ago by a proverbial gorilla and two of the three machine screws / bolts on both sides do not tighten. This will hopefully be the last time I will be removing them to solve / replace the door locks The aftermarket ones I fitted a few years ago have worn badly. I have been unable to get replacement barrels. Anyway door locks need to come out again hence I want to be able to put them back in better than they will come out. Sorry for the long winded explanation Aidan

Hi all There have been loads of mentions of this stuff on various threads. As I am new to this product, I would be grateful to know if there is a similar product that will enable a bolt to be tightened but will also allow it to be removed and so is not a permanent fix Thx Aidan

So small update Canleys are going to purchase a kit to measure the actual size and see what is included Rimmers came back with 18 mm for both, but i am not sure how accurate that is Paddocks yet to respond Paddocks now responded with " I can tell you that you have to enlarge to hole slightly to fix the nut fix version of the lock 621773PX but unsure by exactly how much." I was told by someone selling a clip type on fleabay the clip type is 16 mm which I think is about right So I hope that Canley's will be helpful and confirm I may yet resolve! all a bit of wait and see at the moment Aidan

So From Canleys I have found out that the nut type are aftermarket and required the hole in the door skin enlarging. Does anyone know by now much? My thinking now is if the holes are too enlarged I will still buy their kit and fit the aftermarket locking system to the new locks that are in the kit This is dependant on how much bigger the holes are in the door skin. Can anyone tell me the diameter of the original door locks please? Thanks Aidan

Hi Richard Well i couldn't just leave it there! so unfortunately I have damaged the original barrel, which I can live with as I was going to buy a new set for all three doors anyway - Canleys sell a set, I just hope they fit! Anyway FYI, the pin has to come out. Its drifted in through the rivet, but it also fits inside a slot in in end of the barrel. If I had got it out, all would have been fine but.... Trying to pull the rivet out of the end broke the casting of the barrel so from the pic below you can see the slot is now an opening!!! No idea now the Henry you are supposed to get the pin out - I managed once it had all come apart as you say to drift it out but with a claw hammer and drift (Reminds me to put some drifts on my Stoneleigh shopping list) So new barrel set and I should be OK, I guess I will have to break the barrel on the other side (Ha WHAT FUN) Aidan

Hi Also make sure the collar behind the small seal is the right way around Flat side toward the spring or it won't work properly Aidan

Hi All Moving on to the Door lock barrels - how do these come apart? I have removed a spring clip to reveal a pin but i don't seem able to pull the b***er out? Am i doing this wrong? Asyou can see the end is what seems to be riveted in so unless this has to be cut I am struggling to get anywhere close to removing the barrel Pictures attached Aidan

So. Just in case others are interested, there are in fact two pins. The one shown above only holds the square section bar into the back of the lock The second pin is further up and is offset ie it does not go through the middle. Anyway this came out reasonably easily and I was at last able to get the lock mechanism out Anyway after all that my door key is too wide to fit in the lock aperture so I have. Cleaned up everything lubricated it with graphite powder and put back together At least it's been cleaned up!! Aidan

Hi again So more help please Mana remove the pin this evening however there is a metal slide that moves across with the keY turning and either way it protrudes from the chrome body. The locking mechanism will therefore still not come out Can you advise if and how I get this slide out. It's about 5 mm square Aidan

There's another thread on here regarding master cylinders. Worth a read Aidan

Buy a one way valve Doug. Save yourself the panic! It's got to be worth a pound coin !!! https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://m.g.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-6-8-12mm-Plastic-One-Way-Inline-Check-Valve-Fuel-Diesel-Gas-Liquid-Air-New-/331952088824%3F_trkparms%3Daid%25253D222007%252526algo%25253DSIC.MBE%252526ao%25253D1%252526asc%25253D20150519202351%252526meid%25253Dd8bcd4bc2fdf49ae9a703034726bcf11%252526pid%25253D100408%252526rk%25253D18%252526rkt%25253D25%252526sd%25253D271519110751%26_trksid%3Dp2056116.c100408.m2460&ved=0ahUKEwjVrMP3yoPSAhXLKMAKHQ3BCacQFggdMAE&usg=AFQjCNHPIyTooI6xv-hCYZknXBll_y1lVA

Thanks Colin I think I can work it out from there ! Is the bracket behind not really necessary then? Aidan

Hi Its the passenger one, but if anyone has a picture or design for the the drivers side one please let me know - I don't have that one either !! Aidan

Hi OK as you say, probably need someone to help and see if the master cylinder is being actuated on pressing the pedal. Otherwise the only thing left will be the pipes and splitter (Can't remember the correct name!) I did have a rear blockage once or a very poor flow to the offside rear but was able to clear it by removing the pipe from the rear brake slave and pushing on the pedal again - used half a lire of brake fluid, and the crap taht came out was not nice! Aidan

Thanks Colin, If you can give me an idea of the angle it sits at - that would be brilliant Guestimate is fine Aidan

Hi Did the brakes work before you started? If so and the bleed nipple is new it may be blocked. Try again gently with plenty of rags to push the pedal down with the nipple removed to see if the brake fluid is circulating Aidan

Hi all Does someone have a picture of his Pannel fitted to the car? I will be fitting a second hand one in my car when I have cleaned it up but I'm not sure of the angle it fits and cannot find any pictures on the web. I have seen the parts diagram on canleys and will have to fabricate the foot rest bracket so if someone could tell me what the angle of the bracket is that would also be really useful Thanks Aidan

Clear tube,one way valve and a plastic bottle for me A bottle as otherwise the tube escapes! Aidan

Thanks Richard, its currently soaking in penetrating fluid BTW anyone know the dimensions of PN 621373? Unfortunately mine is missing, I assume this fits inside the tailgate keeping the metal on each side from getting squashed together Unfortunately the gasket has disintegrated any thoughts on an alternative Thanks Aidan