AidanT

Hi Pete, To me we'd just need two things, one the group of people that have the kit to make them and willing to do so and a list of the parts with pics for people to ahow interest and then when a price is given, pre-order AND give a deposit. I guess at least the last part would have to be done by the shop? Aidan

No problem as said let me know once you have some to sell. I don't need the lens just the base. I'm happy to make up the contacts- that's more in my line - I think I have something that could be converted, then it's just a fine soft rivit to attach them

Well let me know if you make some! Alternatively, would you share the 3d file(s)? I could get one printed off over here Aidan

Hi - Its the base of the interior lamp unit. Originals are plastic but when 50 years have passed by te plastic becomes very brittle you can see this in the picture. The Lens for some reason seem to survive. I believe there may be a small demand for the bottom part. (Note this is the one without a switch lever on the light so a pretty simple shape Aidan

do we still have a 3D member @ the TSSC? I was just wondering as I have been quoted silly money for a scan and print - hundreds of pounds! - very silly! Aidan

Hi Re the loom to the rear of the GT6, does anyone know what a thick WB would be for - probably 30A at a guess thx Aidan

Hi Colin Sent you a message. Please let me know Thanks Aidan

Hi Colin Looks to be the right part, there should be a purple (if the wiring is the standard colours) cable coming off from the main line that feeds the roof light. Message me if you don't want or have need of it, I'd be happy to buy off you Thanks Aidan Looking @ Autosparks site the 1810 is the full loom and shows as two parts, 1816 seems to be the body / tailgate / Tail section - Colin do you know what part you did use? This could be what I need 😊

Just a quick question back on subject, I notice the wiring harness on Spits are split into Main and Body, Anyone know if it is the same for Mk1 GT6's? Just thinking if the mice have been at my "Rear Wires" 😁, it might be an idea if I could replace the body harness (if that exists? Thanks

Cheers Pete

Hi - Yes it was Haynes, now checked my factory one and there is no listing for the studs, just "Cylinder Head attachment" - still 65-70 lbft So just to confirm Mk2 GT6 Engine, studs to block - shall we say "firm hand tight" AND Nuts with washers 65-70 lbft I just want to be sure on this Aidan

No probs, ah well, back to a set of nuts and washers from Canleys! Still, an earlier discussion here was discussing just hand tightening studs! Or is that the mk1 block once more?? How the fudge do you torque up studs?????? Confused of Lincolnshire

Please see the change in title! Have mentioned this previously 😄

Not that one the 7th from the bottom in the picture

So looking once more And yes I read it wrong but Cylinder Head stud middle section at the bottom 65 to 70??? Is that right? From the conversations above it can't be Am I misunderstanding ????

Hmm sure I read 70 in the manual... will double check must have read it wrong! Aidan

Nick We're you able to torque these nuts up to 70 lbft?

Roger / Nick Any idea on what torque they are suitable for? We're you able to torque them up to 70 lbft? Mini spares didn't know their torque capacity only that they were fine on minis @ 50 lbft Thanks

Wow! they are a cheaper option Thanks, I will ask Mini Spares for the specs just to make sure Aidan

do you have a Part number?

Is that right John? Maybe my ignorance but surely if you are torqueing the nuts down, does that not impact on the tightness of the studs? (Not sure of the logic / physics behind this) Aidan

They were taken out with a stud remover so three vertical lines on the top thread but none of them were massively difficult to remove. I will run the old nuts up and down the threads to make sure there's no problem with the threads, but should they still be OK? If so that saves a good few Quid! Thanks

Probably already know the answer to this but it's worth checking Can cylinder head studs be re-used??

If only it were that simple Colin I have one of two situations, either they are on when I connect the earth (I keep the car battery out of circuit and on a maintenance charge over he winter unless Warming up a couple of times a month), or everything seems fine start the car and warm up everything - Switch off circa 20 minutes later, switch on the ign. and put the car in reverse.... still no reverse lights AAAAGGGGGHHHH. I'm just going to have to chase the wiring down but wondered where the best place to start would be - hence the topic title Pete, blimey that's a bit posh! No, nothing that complex in the cars wiring - all pretty standard I traced the wiring diagram and looks that power route is fuse box to voltage regulator (has no impact) to reverse switch then to lights. BTW - Does the rear cabling go down the near or off side? Aidan Just to add - Not done anything to the electrics on the car for a few years so its not something I have done

Haha Yeah great isn't it!! I was thinking about the mouse possibility, Is there any feed towards the rear that's perm live? If there was, then that would be more of a possibility and could answer both situations - Even so Tunnel off what ever I guess! Oh fun! Aidan