hugh

decent jack

Has the head been skimmed off square in the past although it maybe flat on the face is it square from side to side, seen a 1500 head like that in the past, had to have it reskimmed to square up, they took 1 thou off one side and 6 off the other to square the head up and guess what, no more oil leaks

7805 5v regulator for supply

My as has been got at janspeed bananas, remap, 2.5 bore piper system single sports cat etc, over 200 bhp, and much fun 8 to the gallon on track but 40 on a long ryb😂

Don't have a triumph at all now, got so fedup with crap parts in general and no decent gearbox parts, joined the dark side and got mg zs180, which has decent parts readily available

Have to say we've used the Britpart blue box ones in the past on a 220bhp turbocharged spitfire they lasted as long as anything else if not longer and that includes the expensive gkn ones but they were fitted with a hydraulic press and not the time honoured socket and hammer

There are several linkage designs available commercially including for single carb they all use a cable/s, from the likes of rally design and demon tweeks I would go that route as I'll bet you are not getting the full throttle travel with what's there, as that was what happened with 2 of our rally cars the pukka linkage alliviates this, there are in line and across engine type linkages available, both ours are now the twin cable type and work really well

Nothing worse than the rotten egg smell from a modern car in a garage, makes your eyes water😷😷

Having re-piped several tr7's they are indeed m10x1 standard metric unions the shorter ones are fine and the cross axle type rear pipe causes no problems, if you convert to rear disc use a 3 way union and separate pipes as the calipers will have bleed nipples and don't like the daisy chain pipe

This is common on 4 cyl engines with the big cam journals that run directly in the block due to wear letting oil out round rocker feed journal usual clue is no matter what you do with rocker adjusters the tappets remain noisy at certain revs, have also seen it on 6 cyl engines , if journal in block is worn due to cost of fixing block is scrap

Have to say I agree with Johnd your bearings are well worn, and if bad enough to virtually no oil pressure when warm, the crank will need a rgrind

Sorry rubbish bearings never had that with any of my tr7's always slid off stub axle and left bearings and seal in the hub

It will Pete 😦

-8.2c last night and had snow on the road since Wednesday, now snowing with a vengeance and drifting, got 10 miles of that before hitting a main road, think work may be a no no in the morning

Put a 205 1.6 on a leakdown test, hot before a rolling road session the leakdown figures from a pro machine were 2%, 3%, 3%, 2% the rolling road man said if it was over 8% he would have sent us away, your figures are poor, I think you have a ring, bore problem, I have seen many 1500 engines particularly tuned ones knackered at 10000 miles, 1300 is better but not much when tuned, you are not going to like this ,its take it apart time

after the ditch incident, i made sure the replacement had power steering as im sure id have caught it with 2.3 turn power steering the 4.5 turn manual steering was just to slow acting and heavy to turn quickly (ex international race licence holder), have to say it transformed the driveablity of the car, highly recommended if you are doing another v8 with the 4.6 i had to use a discovery clutch as the standard sd1 type slipped from new, if you need any info give me a shout one mg is standard in metallic black, the other is a monagram celestial blue (11 of 28)has been wound up and is well over 200bhp with an 8000rpm redline

I did indeed own said car, unfortunately it no longer exists, it met an untimely end in France with a front tyre blow out and a ditch, the mechanics were built into another shell, but the engine was very tired with badly worn bores, so was swapped to a 4.6 which i built with various tuning goodies, which made stupid horsepower and blew two quaife lds's in 18 months, I had a major car accident in the everyday car and got my back broken, I then just lost heart and sold it to a chap in the west country, that still exists, afraid I now own 2 v6 mg zs180's I still have the engine block and crankshaft/rods and heads Hugh

Always used a ratchet wind up one been excellent but it was a Sykes pickavant not a Chinese copy they are crap and made of the wrong materiels

Just wait til you have to play with the headlight raiser's and the electronic control, drives many insane and suicidal

my youngest got "cherry picked" off an electrical course at college for an apprenticeship at a specialist gearbox manufacturer, let him finish the electrical side, put him through the mechanical side, several promotions later he's doing well and they are offering a degree part time on full pay at 25, guess he's one of the lucky ones, the eldest is a waster, but wont go into that

I believe that for the gt6 the m16 type fit but you may need the adapter mounting bolts to convert from metric to unf

Like I said most, its a case of try it and if the wheels don't fit be prepared

Used hispec ultralite 4 pots with the princess spacing, fits spitfire with Capri 2.8i discs redrilled for spitfire pcd uses same pads as lotus Elise so loads of fancy pads available as they are alloy they weigh virtually nothing compared to the standard callipers, and if they stop a 220bhp turbo spitfire there is no need to go silly, they will just fit under most 13" alloys but not steels we used mgf and montego 15" alloys with the above setup, also beware princess callipers with 13" wheels the corners need grinding away for clerance on most wheels By the way the standard discs and callipers fried in the welsh hills in less than 3 miles with the turbo engine

seen this on a car i did some years ago turned out to be water contamination in the airline because the water trap was knackered

Knackered spring??