Anglefire
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Everything posted by Anglefire
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The eBay link for the millers oil has expired, but the Opie Oils website has it in stock. https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-79227-millers-oils-classic-pistoneeze-20w-50-mineral-engine-oil.aspx
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Got a dial gauge and stand today and measured the endfloat of the crank using the method above. And it ties up with my feeler gauge at 5thou. Which I’m happy with. Zeroing the gauge was the hard bit - but happened to be almost zero the one way ?
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I feel like a pensioner- does that count?
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Got some thrust washers today. Went for std, +5thou and +10thou. Fitted the standard to the one side and initially +10 on the other - but couldn’t get even a 2 thou feeler in. So took it out and fitted a 5thou instead and I could then get a 5thou in (reasonably obviously) I did try a 6 but wouldn’t go. Before I fit the sump properly I am going to try and borrow a dial gauge and see what that reads. That or buy one but not sure if the cheap amazon ones are very accurate and I’m not sure if I can justify an expensive one. ?
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Luckily mine hasn't been run with them in the wrong way - just turned by hand. Just trying to decide which supplier has the best ones! The states seem to have a supplier that custom makes solid bronze ones. But I don't think they are available over here - or of they are what the cost of shipping is!
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Or get both and mix and match? There are some scrub marks on them too. Though they were in the wrong way round. Which is why I was checking - everything else has been ok so far
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That’s exactly why I bought my Spitfire. Bring some enjoyment back to driving that my everyday driving can’t do. Nothing fun running up and down the motorway avoiding all the other idiots on the road doing the same thing
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Ok, measured the end float on the crank - and when I push the crank all the way over, I can get a 12thou feeler down the gap. The bearings aren't marked as to their size, so I guess they are standard (I'll measure them to be sure though not sure how thick they are as standard (yet)! So on the basis that there should be between 4 and 8 thou end float, I need ideally 8 thou oversize. Which you can't get - so do I go 10 over or 5 over? Or for the sake of £7 get both and see what fits best?
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But which is which
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Thanks Clive. That’s put my mind at rest
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It’s never run Pete. I’m changing the oil pump because that wasn’t changed though was just in spec. I did pull that out yesterday too and the impeller has quite a few marks on it. But no sign of any other damage in the block that I could see.
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Thanks Clive. I assumed std was just the size. I have looked at the prices and they aren’t expensive. I was hoping to avoid stripping the complete engine to get the crank out. But hey ho.
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I’ve since read that the glacier ones have a G in a box stamped on the back - so this isn’t one of them. So what make are they Pete? And why do you say some hate them other not?
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The running side looks ok as far as I can tell. Are these the "Glacier" ones I've read about that the bearing face falls off? The small line by my thumb is just a mark and not a score.
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I've dropped the sump and pulled the no.2 bearing. I know what the words say, but are they are reasonable bearing?
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Apart from the first fill up last year, when I forgot, I've used Premium unleaded - usually BP or Shell. Never used any additives either as you say no point.
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The guy I bought it off did say there was no valve regression. I do have a cheap USB camera - shame it is too cheap to be of any use
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Pete, Just had chance to have a look for the mark - I was expecting it to be under the rocker cover! It does appear to be TKC1155
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My preference is for an auto-ranging multi-meter - but then I use mine a lot (I got a Fluke with some nice optional leads for about £150 or so) and for occasional use the screwfix one looks reasonable
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Another update - as I mentioned earlier I ordered a standard dIzzy from the Doctor - who initially said it would be December - then had a bit of a mooch about and thought he had a spare core available and would see if he could get it done earlier - well its arrived today! And it looks brand new - very nice job and complete with calibration certificate. Very much recommended based on what I've seen so far.
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I thought for £30-40 I'd just change the bolts - more for piece of mind rather than anything else - not going ARP as the engine will be pretty much standard. Useful article on the oil pump too. I'll be making sure that my new one is as good as it can get to the "best" end of the specs. And I'll be looking at the shells as I said and thrust washers - though it does look from the outside to have been done well (I don't want to knock the chap who did it!) and he didn't use eBay parts, just Canley Classics, Rimmers or Moss.
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Ok, given that I'm going to drop the sump to replace the oil pump, I have decided to also change all the bolts on the bearing caps - gives me the opportunity to inspect the journals and shells and re-oil prior to start-up (its been on an engine stand for about 3 or 4 years) Question is, should I Loctite the bolts and if so which spec should I use. I've googled and it seems to be questionable!
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Thanks Richard. A bit too obvious for me that! And as my current engine seems to be doing about 28mpg, I'd hate to think what a low efficiency engine is like
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Thanks Pete - as it happens I picked up a "new" engine today - has been largely rebuilt - needs a new oil pump as it wasn't changed, but does seem to be well done overall. Head has been gas flowed and the inlet ports "matched" apparently and it came complete with rebuilt carbs, alloy rocker cover and a twin pipe sports exhaust and 4-2-1 header. Did mean I had to buy an engine hoist, load leveller and engine stand this week too I'll look for the head stamp and see what it says. The engine number is FM91xxxHE - which I know is Spitfire and High compression - E for engine?
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Bit of a thread resurrection - but picture of mine (and me!)
