Anglefire

Thanks Roger - that was the aim - missed a fair number! Most of them were taken at 1/100" @ 600mm on a full frame camera - so not that slow - but much slower and the keeper rate falls off to almost never! 😂

By CCK do you mean these cars? I'm still going through the 2500 I took - as well as the 1500 or so from last weekend in Hockenheim!

Donington Park for me yesterday- ache a bit today from the walking, standing and carrying my camera about. I can post some pictures if anyone is interested but there are no racing triumphs yet. Today I’m planning on getting the head back on.

Rest of the bits I ordered have arrived during the week whilst I was working away. New studs and flanged nuts to go with the gaskets already here I ordered a new thermostat too. Though it hasn’t got the pin in it to aid air release. I assume a small 3mm? Hole should be drilled? Might get chance to fit it all over the weekend.

Most modern cars seem to run with the gauge at around 90’c. The exception seems to be bmw in that it runs at 100’c. That’s in diesels. Skoda, merc and I think Audi all sit at 90 on the gauge, my bmw ran at 100. And was still Eu 6 spec without the use of adblue. Or perhaps that was due to software tricks like vw🤔

Funnily enough my cert did mention the map reading light option. Long since gone 😂

No problem. Not sure where you are - I’m in the midlands but to get about a bit for work. Currently sat in a pub in Wincanton. Hard life for some. 😂

I have one. Bought in a fit of peak. Welcome to either borrow it or buy it!

I keep meaning to put some data loggers on mine to see what the temperature difference between the area where the air would get picked up from if using the OEM airbox and the air that is around the K&N filters. When I get the car running again, I must dig them out!

To physically check them you can just take them out and read the code off the top of the needle. Mark

Yes I have a pee clip over one of the filter bolts. Hopefully you can see it in this picture. If not it’s on the right side bolt on the left hand filter.

The normal fuel line runs in front of the filters. Going over the exhaust manifold is not going to help, but if you are going up hill I would have thought the fuel flow would overcome the heating effect but you never know. This is mine.

On the canley classics website. https://www.canleyclassics.com/technical-archive/oil-consumption it suggests using hylomar around the oil feed hole to the rockets. Is this seen as a good idea or not?

Gasket set has arrived today and looks to be all present and correct. has the tab at the top and fire rings for the recessed cylinders. Wont be doing anything though until a week Saturday at least as I’m away to Germany tonight and then working away from home most of next week.

Thanks Clive. But I did fit a Payen one. That’s what I find odd. Unless it is just that slight bit of damage. I’ve ordered new studs and head bolts this morning. Probably overkill - but for the sake of £40 or so (Canley for studs - 1/2 the price of Moss) and Minispares for nuts - again 1/2 the price of Moss.

Had a brain wave. Checked the moss site for the head bolt for a mini - and it's the same. So I'll get them from mini spares as they are half price. i might change the studs for the heck of it too. Wonder who supplies moss?

You can go off people 😂

I will check again for thread pull - I didn't see any when I took the head off- but wasn't really looking - though if there had, I'm sure the rag I used to wipe it down would have snagged on any!

I was actually looking at the ones from MOSS - which are £1.96 each - 3/8" - but the ones from Mini spares http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Engine/Cylinder_heads/Studs_bolts_nuts/C-AHT287.aspx?100409&ReturnUrl=/product/Classic/Engine/Cylinder_heads/Studs_bolts_nuts/CAM4545.aspx|Back to are 1/2 the price and look the same - but don't give a size - but a quick search does suggest they are also 3/8"

I used flanged nuts on recommendation from somewhere - I forget where - as they are a combined but and washer (no separate washer is specified) and are hardened. I think Minis use them. Nuts have been used twice now in theory. According the the torque specs, the studs should be as tight - pretty much as the nuts. The annoying thing is that I’m away next weekend and then working away from home for a couple of weeks so will not get chance to fix anything until the next bank holiday probably.

Could well be right John as it’s made with polyisocyanates which I guess could break down to cyanide

Well. Head is off. Nothing particularly obvious except this. Just a very small gap in the gasket material between the fire ring and the water hole. Potentially the head wasn’t bolted down tight enough as it didn’t seem that hard to undo - though I was using a 2’ breaker bar! All bar three of the studs came out of the head. I already have flanged nuts but do I replace the studs and nuts or just re-use them?

the HEP station at Dinorwig is the usual place they use to pick up the peak demand - they have one generator sat spinning off load and can be at full load in 12 seconds - I think pumping up the hill at full chat to generating takes about a minute. https://www.electricmountain.co.uk/Dinorwig-Power-Station Its a very interesting visit to be fair.

Interesting problem Sparky - I was expecting a long thread - but not so! Don't fancy having to block those holes up. I hope its just either muppetry on my part of a bad gasket. I got it from James Paddock - part number GEG1195P - which is the head set and recessed. I've ordered up a CK261 head set from Parts in Motion off ebay - which is meant to be a genuine Payen kit. Time will tell - it is more than the Paddocks one...

Yes tab to the rear. I never thought of the water sat in the bores. I will get it off later today then. After lunch (Non-liquid ) and once its cooled down some more. Sparky - I'll have a look at that next.