rulloyd

The o/d loom I bought for my o/d conversion excluded an earth wire for the inhibitor switch. Is it sufficient just to wire to a bolt/nut in the gearbox please? many thanks Rich

The o/d loom I bought for my o/d conversion excluded an earth wire for the inhibitor switch. Is it sufficient just to wire to a bolt/nut in the gearbox please? many thanks Rich

I ran a wire just in case 👍

I’ve mounted the relay hidden inside the car on a plastic plinth. I’m presuming the body doesn’t need to be earthed, or does it? Many thanks for all advice Rich

I didn’t have that problem, probably because it’s a new prop which ic considerably narrower, but I did find the prop uj plate at the front drivers side is turning very close to the tunnel. When I fitted the cover (ie the one that covers the section of tunnel removed) it squeezed the tunnel sufficiently that the uk plate was catching. I could turn the chassis plate over put that means removing some of the lips that give it structural integrity. Basically i cut out a bit too much from the sides of the tunnel meaning that I can’t screw the cover plate higher up easing the squeeze. So I’ll take the easy option and screw the cover plate on the top only and fix it in with seam sealer which will allow it some space. Tried the tunnel cover on and this seams to work.👍

Perfect, thanks.

I guess it would be difficult to access if the support was installed without cutting a flap in the carpet?

But I could cut the carpet and hide the join behind the radio /dash support. I could even glue the carpet on the gear stick end. So long as the join is inside the mount, all I would need to do is loosen it at the bottom and slide it out slightly and over the gearstick.

Thanks both. Yes Johnny, you’re right, it does interfere with the housing without the washers 👍

Between the reverse stop plate and bolt, is there an optimum gap between the range quoted in the pic. please? ie if I made the gap the median .030” is that the best bet? Or is smaller better? 😬

As I’m retro fitting o/d to my gt6, and reading some of the potential issues over time that could necessitate the nightmare removal of the gearbox cover, like a Speedo drive failure, I’m wondering if anybody has ever considered the radical step of slicing the cover in two such that the back half can be removed without messing with the dash support / radio bracket / front of the cover etc? Obviously the two halves would have to be held together but the joint could be under the radio bracket which runs from top to bottom of course. Just a thought. I know some have created inspection holes with covers. Many thanks Rich

Hi all Before I create any extra hassle for myself(!), anyone know which way round this new rear mounting bracket goes please? I see it has shims (washers) welded on one side as photos! Also do I need to fit the bracket on the chassis plate before or after I drop in the gearbox? Many thanks for any advice Rich

Glad I could help 😉

For everyone’s interest, here’s the consequence of a shorted wire. I’m taking the tape insulation of the length of the shorted wire, checking the other wires and replacing the damaged wire. What a hassle The damage in the pic was hidden from view till I took it out, in fact it was face down on the bulkhead and the car was driving fine. There are a few similar damaged sections. Scary.

Thanks Wagger. Yes, ‘standard’ 17amp wire is a lot thinner than 3mm. I actually got the wire size from auto sparks uk who provided the loom in the first place and very good. I’m actually replacing it with 27amp cable which has a silimar cross section as I couldn’t wait for a delivery from auto sparks