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The o/d loom I bought for my o/d conversion excluded an earth wire for the inhibitor switch. Is it sufficient just to wire to a bolt/nut in the gearbox please? many thanks Rich

The o/d loom I bought for my o/d conversion excluded an earth wire for the inhibitor switch. Is it sufficient just to wire to a bolt/nut in the gearbox please? many thanks Rich

I ran a wire just in case 👍

I’ve mounted the relay hidden inside the car on a plastic plinth. I’m presuming the body doesn’t need to be earthed, or does it? Many thanks for all advice Rich

I didn’t have that problem, probably because it’s a new prop which ic considerably narrower, but I did find the prop uj plate at the front drivers side is turning very close to the tunnel. When I fitted the cover (ie the one that covers the section of tunnel removed) it squeezed the tunnel sufficiently that the uk plate was catching. I could turn the chassis plate over put that means removing some of the lips that give it structural integrity. Basically i cut out a bit too much from the sides of the tunnel meaning that I can’t screw the cover plate higher up easing the squeeze. So I’ll take the easy option and screw the cover plate on the top only and fix it in with seam sealer which will allow it some space. Tried the tunnel cover on and this seams to work.👍

Perfect, thanks.

I guess it would be difficult to access if the support was installed without cutting a flap in the carpet?

But I could cut the carpet and hide the join behind the radio /dash support. I could even glue the carpet on the gear stick end. So long as the join is inside the mount, all I would need to do is loosen it at the bottom and slide it out slightly and over the gearstick.

Thanks both. Yes Johnny, you’re right, it does interfere with the housing without the washers 👍

Between the reverse stop plate and bolt, is there an optimum gap between the range quoted in the pic. please? ie if I made the gap the median .030” is that the best bet? Or is smaller better? 😬

As I’m retro fitting o/d to my gt6, and reading some of the potential issues over time that could necessitate the nightmare removal of the gearbox cover, like a Speedo drive failure, I’m wondering if anybody has ever considered the radical step of slicing the cover in two such that the back half can be removed without messing with the dash support / radio bracket / front of the cover etc? Obviously the two halves would have to be held together but the joint could be under the radio bracket which runs from top to bottom of course. Just a thought. I know some have created inspection holes with covers. Many thanks Rich

Hi all Before I create any extra hassle for myself(!), anyone know which way round this new rear mounting bracket goes please? I see it has shims (washers) welded on one side as photos! Also do I need to fit the bracket on the chassis plate before or after I drop in the gearbox? Many thanks for any advice Rich

Glad I could help 😉

For everyone’s interest, here’s the consequence of a shorted wire. I’m taking the tape insulation of the length of the shorted wire, checking the other wires and replacing the damaged wire. What a hassle The damage in the pic was hidden from view till I took it out, in fact it was face down on the bulkhead and the car was driving fine. There are a few similar damaged sections. Scary.

Thanks Wagger. Yes, ‘standard’ 17amp wire is a lot thinner than 3mm. I actually got the wire size from auto sparks uk who provided the loom in the first place and very good. I’m actually replacing it with 27amp cable which has a silimar cross section as I couldn’t wait for a delivery from auto sparks

It’s 17amp, 28 strand. 👍 2 or ideally 3mm PVC cable

I notice the pipe inside the new washer water bottle on my GT6 has gone kind of slimy quite quickly like it can’t deal with the antifreeze. Anybody else notice this and is there an alternative type of pipe that won’t go funny? I notice that the windscreen washer pipe (the thin stuff is marked as nylon. Also is this nylon pipe suitable to use as the choke pipe between carbs. I seem to remember that I read somewhere that it is recommended. Many thanks Rich

Does anyone know the size (capacity?) of the unfused brown power cable between the Solomon’s and the ignition switch please? Its thicker than most of the other cables as I presume it powers most circuits. It look bigger than the 17amp cable I have sitting around. i want to install a new cable as mine got accidentally melted… many thanks Rich

This one looks pretty promising https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266289445731?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=pipn4v9hRni&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=UxEaPTrdSoO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Ok, so I first tried bending the activator arm straight. Still not enough. Next I tried reaming the mounting holes as much as the bracket could move inwards. Still not enough so I had to bend the bracket. I hate it when z shape brackets aren’t parallel on the 2 vertical face so managed to bend the centre slopey bit more then the upper section straight again. SUCCESS! So it seems that even the quality Canley bracket needed adjustment. I did notice that the older switch activation ball had to be pushed in further on the old switch. To anybody having a similar issue, using a blow torch to heat the activator arm and bracket made light work of the bending although I had to do a bit of a Heath Robinson to be able to bend the bracket because of the awkward shape. Thanks all for the good advice, much appreciated. Rich

Yes, that’s ideal. Interestingly I have an old switch and a new switch and id say they are about the same depth

Hi all. An update on the o/d inhibitor switch. After trying the Rimmers bracket and marvelling at the poor quality, I ordered the Canley item and was pleasantly surprised by the quality item that arrived. Comparing the 2 the Canley item is much better made and looks very like the original (in pictures as I don’t have an original). Side by side, the 2 items profile is different too. In pic one with the mounting holes aligned, the actual switch mounting hole is slightly different. The Rimmers item is black and the Canley grey. in pic 2 you can see the difference in quality with the Canley unit having obvious bends while the Rimmers unit sort of bends a bit! So all looking good. So off I go to fit it. Not good. The switch is nearer but still doesn’t touch in 3rd and 4th. See pics 3 & 4. I tried changing the switch for an original but that doesn’t help either. Interesting that in 3rd the switch is also too far forward to touch the switch 😖 So ironically I may have to revert to the Rimmers item and bend it as there is no chance of bending the Canley item. Sorry, I realise I’m making far too much fuss and it’s only a switch bracket and bending the and using the cheap item is no big deal! Am I missing something obvious? Rich 😩

Just checking…. I bought a new prop for my GT6 o/d conversion. The old one was roughly 6.5cm width. This new one is about 5cm. Is this right? many thanks Rich

Hi Pete. I could probably bend it into shape. But to be honest, it’s quite flimsy and I shouldn’t have to! £30 is enough for it to be right, surely. Turns out Canley manufacture their own (and cheaper) so I’ve ordered that. Let’s just say that Canleys ‘weren’t complementary’ about the Rimmers product and nor was Tony Lindsey-Dean who referred to it as not fit for purpose. Anyway Rimmers are refunding without a return So I’ll compare the two and feed back. All a bit odd as Rimmers said they have been selling the same item from the same supplier without any returns for years. They did say they will investigate. Incidently, they used to buy them from Canleys! 🤔 i don’t order much from Rimmers normally but I was ordering quite a few parts that only they stocked at the time.

I thought I was really lucky with that one on eBay until I tried to buy it! So annoying. Anyone reading this got a spare? 😬