rulloyd

Is it a valve or a filter or both? Why does it need a valve? Struggling to find something. If anybody can point me at a suitable aquarium jobby that would be great!! Thank you Rich

Managed to get one of these switches 2 speed with the electrical connectors instead of water nipples. Not sure what it comes off but a direct replacement & works a treat. Connections exactly the same unlike the earlier spitfire one I bought. It’s not in my GT6 parts manual and I’ve seen a GT6 non roto has bellows. Pretty sure it’s not an aftermarket.

Anybody else noticed that the filter (which seems to incorporate a valve) in new new Tudor bottles is too tough for the bellows or even a small pump? Wondering if I have duff one. Fine when I take it off. Rich

Rivets. Near impossible to fit a nut and bolt 👍

Good point. Are the batteries compatible with Aldi tools? Or is that too much to ask!!

£59.99 btw

https://www.lidl.co.uk/en/p/car-care/ultimate-speed-20v-cordless-vehicle-impact-wrench/p41262 I’d love one of those but sadly, infrequent use leads to ruined batteries. I have to buy everything mains power.

Hi Paul. Looked into it yesterday. Firstly I noticed the high beam flash cable on the switch was hanging by a thread with wire exposed so I guessed it was that and resoldered connection. But then I found the flash was instead working the interior light 🤪😀 Then I noticed that one of the cables close to the switch was worn through to the wire. The switch had had some dodgy soldering before so best to change the switch and cable. As it happens I have a spare so planning to do that today. 👍

Please can somebody with a weathershield / britax sunroof tell me what secures the chrome hinges to the frame please? Rivets seem like the obvious choice but could be nut & bolt rich would look nicer. The two holes in the pic hold the hinge (1 of 3) and are accessible from behind. Many thanks Rich

Thanks for all the suggestions. Hopefully I’ll check it over at the weekend. Going forwards is great!

Thanks Johny. Would that happen just in reverse?

Thanks Nick. No O/D. New mounts.

Thanks Colin. Yes, headlights going off then on again. I didn't notice if the dashboard went out but I think I smelt the fearsome smell of hot plastic momentarily.... I could have imagined that!

Fresh from it's restoration, my car is driving very well with no vibration, but I notice that in reverse, it is hard to move without what feels like the prop shaft (but I have no idea) 'juddering'. It's quite bad, a bit like the problem you sometimes get with a clutch when pulling away in 1st gear (when something is wrong I mean!) As I say it feels like the drive train somewhere, certainly not Engine. I vaguely remember that it was doing this before I took it off the road 20 years ago. Prop, gearbox, diff are untouched in the restoration. Everything else new (inc clutch & rotoflex of course) Hoping someone may recognise the fault? Thank you! Rich

Hi all My car now 99.9 % finished. Took it out in the dark yesterday. Noticed when I turned hard corners the lights flashed off and on, sounding like a brief short. This happened multiple times and I had visions of fires.... GT6 Mk2 I guess that can only be to do with the indicators on the steering column? Thank you Rich

Looking at the k&n website where they give the dimensions of their filters it looks like it’s an E-3211. “No vehicle applications”. !!!!

Yes, £80 a filter..... lucky mine were a present. But if somebody wants this filter @ half price then win win!

K&N managed to send me an incorrect air filter in the correct box Does anybody recognise it as they don’t want it back? It was supposed to be one of a pair for my CD150s.

Repro. If all else fails I’ll get an old set reconditioned. Expensive mistake possibly.

Hi Pete. Sorry you had to repeat yourself. You assumed correctly that I did not disconnect the handbrake. It’s the 1st thing I do when I get the car back 👍

Hi Johny. Where did you get yours?

All brake components including pipes and unions are all brand new with the exception of the servo which I have refurbed. The guy doing the mot who is very triumph experienced first thought was incompatibility between the new callipers and the new (but old style) mc. He reckons the callipers may be greater capacity. But I left it with him to look at. The pistons in the callipers (which are probably 18 months old) are not visually retracting at all but they are working so I don’t think it’s the piston problem. Nor does the fluid in the mc appear to go up or down when applying the brakes which I assume is right. I did physically push the pistons in and out numerous times and they were moving ok. I adjusted the rear brakes up tight (no self adjusters). Made no difference. I checked the unions on the servo. All tight. hub end float good. thanks for all the suggestions. I’ll probably try bypassing the servo. Then I may try reverting to old callipers. Or I could try a bigger capacity mc I guess. Drove it to the mot this morning. Car is pretty much finished after complete restoration, even replaced chassis. Had the biggest smile on my face 😁😁😁 (sadly had the rozzers driving behind me all the way😩😩)

Thanks Colin. Rimmers staff not aware of that. Say no more. 🙄🙄🙄

The flexible pipes are the ss braided variety. Presume these can’t be clamped?

Cool, thanks for this 👍