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Bfg

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Bfg last won the day on May 21

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About Bfg

  • Birthday 01/09/1956

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ipswich, Suffolk, England
  • Cars Owned
    Of Triumphs : Herald, Spitfire, TR3 (small mouth), TR4, TR6. And now after too many years away from the fold I'm coming back by buying a total project TR4A. I also used to make the fibreglass panels for Burlington.

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  1. FOR SALE - Triumph TR2 - 4A pressed-steel wheels, 4J x15" for restoration . . . These x4 wheels, now with then tyres removed, are again offered for sale by me., Bfg, in Ipswich, Suffolk. Same price as I paid ..£75. There are in fact a couple of dents in the rims but I'm sure they would tap out easily enough before blasting and repaint. cheers, Pete
  2. So.., FOR SALE - 4-1/2J x 15" painted wire wheels, x5 with Spinners, and Splined hubs for the TR 2 - 4A, and their special domed nuts, and possibly x2 good Maxxis tyres (, dated 2013). The three other tyres are old & worn. ^ As collected (in March, when the car was clean and wore the white-wall-tyre embellishers) ..available for collection from Wolverhampton, or in a few weeks time, from Ipswich, Suffolk I don't wish to discuss prices on an open forum, but I'm sure anyone who has look will have a good idea of the value of a set of five, sound wire 15" wheels together with x4 the splined-hubs and spinners. I'm not in a position to give them away but I'm open to sensible offers. Emotion of their being out of balance when I first collected the car aside., an impartial look at this photos shows that although not concourse they are still very respectable. The spinners have been dented (hammered rather than using a block of timber to protect the ears) but still they are very serviceable. They too have been over painted with silver paint. I have not had the wheels balanced but as far as I'm aware there are no broken or loose spokes, dented rims, nor is there any rust. Again., these things are for you to determine for yourself. Please contact me in person via a PM. Cheers, Pete.
  3. OK., FOR SALE - TR4A chassis (easily modified to TR5 or TR6 spec). Just a thought ..and I have OK'ed it with Mark before I suggest this.. it is available for collection from Wolverhampton, or in a few weeks time, from Ipswich, Suffolk I don't wish to discuss prices on an open forum, but as a starting point the chassis replacement I've just bought cost me £2,550 and that had also been welded (those being aside from the modifications I subsequently asked for). A new replacement chassis from CTM is I believe in the region of £6,700 + collection costs, with present delivery being ; six months to one year. Emotion of the moment of discovery aside., an impartial look at these photos would suggest that my car's chassis condition is generally very good. However, its damage would have been difficult to repair properly from underneath with the body on, as indeed it would have been nigh-on-impossible to do the stiffening-mods I specifically asked for. Having seen numerous other blogs of TR4A - TR6 chassis ..in far worse condition, being successfully repaired.., if I had the space to do so, then I would have lifted the body off my car, repaired the chassis and refitted it. And had I taken on a project TR, as I had originally hoped to do, then again my intent was to first restore 'a spare' chassis and then to transfer assemblies across, one at a time as they were reconditioned. Much easier IMO than taking everything off and then being confronted with a huge mixed-up jigsaw puzzle of loose parts. I've been there done that with motorcycles ..which take up very much less space. Personally speaking, I would have locally cut out the old poorer-quality repairs (..which have only lasted 22 years road-use since restoration) and inset new metal. And then with shiny clean metal (clear access is the key here) and the chassis rotated to a position where welding is easy - I would have every confidence that the repaired structure would be both strong and would have been barely discernible. Btw., I had been offered a replacement rear diff mount (after-market tubular section) and so would have fitted that. Mark is going to send me other photos, now that the chassis is completely stripped down, but as far as I'm aware there is no evidence of accident damage nor of any place where the chassis has rusted (not even pin-holes) through. That is unusual, even with many US cars where the T-shirt plate conceals rust and the trailing-arm outriggers need replacing. The rear legs of this chassis may have drooped (can't really tell because some body mounting rubbers or spacers were missing - the cause of surface chafing), but either way I honestly believe that this would have been easily corrected in the course of general repairs (dimensions in the workshop manual). Anyway., these things are for you to determine for yourself. I can forward Mark's photos of the chassis, as it is now, to anyone who is seriously interested in buying. Please contact me in person via a PM. Cheers, Pete.
  4. Thanks all.. ^ I stuck with POR-15 which I've been happy with in the past, and as applied to the foot well of this car. Although that suffered from silicon contamination it applied well over old paint and the primer already in the car. Seems like POR-15 is a Marmite like product. Katie, as bought, shook through her steering above 55mph. My friend Rich who gave me a lift to collect the car was surprised when I joined the A14 dual-carriageway that I slowed down to let a lorry pass. That's because I was concerned a wheel was falling off ! I stopped and checked that was not the case and thereafter assumed the wire wheels were way out of balance. This supposition being reinforced by the lack of balancing weights on the rims. I suspect this was because there were rubber white-wall-tyre embellishers sandwiched between the rim & the tyre and so clip-on balance weights couldn't be fitted. I subsequently removed the white-wall embellishment, and also checked and coppaslipped each wheel's fitting on its hub. Because three of the five (inc the spare wheel) had 27 year old tyres fitted, and because I want pressed steel wheels - I wasn't going to spend money on having those balanced. I did try swapping the wheels on their axles, front to back, and that very slightly lessened the shake through the steering wheel but still they shaked n' rattled the whole car ..and me, all the way to Wolverhampton. The TR4 / 4A wire wheels are 4-1/2J but standard TR2 - 4A pressed-steel wheels were 4J. I bought a set of four pressed-steel-wheels, believing they were 4 1/2J's off a TR250 / TR5, but wherever that thought came from ..I was mistaken - I had bought a set of 4J's. I emphasis that this was not the seller's fault, it was my own. oops . I only discovered it - after I had removed their old tyres. In the meantime., M&T Classics had, as I asked, swapped out the cut-short wheel-studs in my car's hubs for standard length studs. ^ Standard studs are too long for wire wheels, because the wire-wheel's inner hub are held away from sitting down onto the male-conical splined adapter. For the wheel to rest on the end of too long studs would be very dangerous. The studs on Katie had been cut short, several of them by too much ..Also not good. I'd heard that wheel spacers can be used inbetween the half-shaft hub and the wire-wheel adapters. Mark very kindly tried this for me . . . ^ Things loosely assembled with a 6mm (1/4") spacer. If the wire wheel's inner hub now clears those studs - then using the wire wheels is fine and will be safe. Handy to get us back from Wolverhampton. However, as my preference is for pressed steel wheels, that would be a temporary fix. Although my wire-wheels appear to be in good order - it didn't make sense to have new tyres fitted to them (and to have those balanced) where I'll be changing them. While weighing up my options, of the wires with spacers or the (..not 4-1/2J / TR5 ) wheels I'd mistakenly bought ..and having those blasted and painted - I spotted that Jim Lowry had a set of pressed steel wheels for a TR4. Although also 4j x 15., they appeared to be straight and cosmetically 'tidy'. Jim's price was very fair, with their cost (for the set of five) being much the same as I could have a set of wheels blasted and painted for. Yesterday I drove down to Chelmsford to buy and collect them. Their condition is fine for my purpose of having a nice driver rather than show car. . . ^ the four wheels appear to have been painted and clear lacquered, and were clearly very nice when fitted, but have minor blemishes from balance weights having been clipped onto / removed from the rims. I'll touch-in those places, as much as anything to hopefully prevent their chipped clear lacquer from flaking. The fifth wheel is likewise in silver but hadn't been clear lacquered. It's suffering from a few scrapes and some surface rust particularly on its inside ..perhaps cosmetic damage from tools rattling around in it, in the boot. Again I'll tidy that up before having its tyre fitted. I'd bought three new tyres, as I hoped to re-use two off the wire wheels, but that's not convenient now the car's up in Wolverhampton. Today I've ordered two more, so by the end of this week I hope to have a full set of round and balanced wheels to replace the wires. As an aside, Jim very kindly showed me some of his own cars .. and we had a great time chatting about each (..for 2-1/2 hours !). Some of his car sales have been questioned / criticized by contributors of the TR forum, but he is in fact a really nice chap and comes across as being very conscientious in retaining, as far as possible, each car's original parts, their history (..whatever that may be) and patina. The cars I saw (He's presently using a TR2, which I didn't see, but he otherwise showed me late 1950, early 60's MG's including a twin-cam MGA presently being worked on, and a Lotus Elite) each appear to have been rebuilt ..with an historic FIA scrutineer's eye to putting things back together properly / sorted ..rather than to glitzy or showroom standards. In short, they seemed to be excellent cars to use and enjoy - as they had been designed to be used. It was great to meet him and have a really enjoyable conversation. Cheers, Pete.
  5. I wish you good fortune with securing another body and parts needed. The first one (fraternal twin) sounds ideal if the price is right and you can buy just what you want. Make him an offer and see if cash speaks louder than what he might 'want'. 'captive nut' is the term we use. Sorry to hear about the cut to your head.. ouch.! Through the winter I got used to wearing a woolly hat when I'm working under the car or dashboard. I had a cotton bush hat for when working on the boat ..all too often with me wedged in very awkward places. Aside from protection it kept paint, fibreglass and the glass fibres off. It made me look dumber than dumb, but it served the task well. Alas it has been lost somewhere. Note to self ; i must get another. Good Luck, Pete
  6. Thanks. The ETA's not been advised, but according to some a chassis swap can be done in a weekend. The body shell's LH sill is to be replaced once the body is on this chassis so the door gap can be better set. And I've asked them to remove the hump over the differential. Mark mentioned that the gearbox rebuild has happened and didn't say anything out of the ordinary was found, so no delay there as far as I know. Hopefully they've just had to replace the layshaft bearings, etc, and it will be good to go for another fifty years.. There's no other tasks of a major nature, as although the road springs will be replaced ..that's just a matter of substituting the old for less tired ones during reassembly. Likewise with brake pipes and that sort of thing. Wheel studs are also to be replaced. But I hope it's a fun ride for them now. Pete.
  7. Thanks Colin I didn't know that. bit worrying really as you'd hope the development and testing was done before they produced the cars. ! Latest update from Mark this afternoon showing the chassis upturned and painted, the threaded holes tapped clean and the new body mounting kit laid out. Looking really good . . . Pete
  8. A quick pictorial update from Mark today ; ^ Parts solvent cleaned and jet washed. New nylocks and bolts are being used where Mark thinks best. You and I might have cleaned the old ones up on a wire-wheel but replacing them is probably better value with a commercial operation. ^ The bottom T-shirt being drilled, to help avoid a big puddle of water sitting in there, now that those plates have end upturns on them. ^ Like the 4A's tunnel-bridge, the bottoms of the rear diff support bridge were temporarily cut short ..so the 5.3mm thick vertical web plate used could pass uninterrupted along the rear chassis legs. Those pieces have now been reinstated and the bottom flanges of the diff bridge have been closed in as box section. I specifically asked for it to wrapped under the chassis rail, which M&T have kindly done for me. They have of course been drilled for drainage through their bottom corner. The closed in box section rear diff-bridge together with a final corner gusset. ^ M&T skilled craftsman at work. He's adding TR6 type body mounts onto the diff bridge / rear suspension's spring turret. I wanted these because I had ideas of fit a roll-over bar, and if so - then I very much prefer to tie that bar into the chassis. There's not much opportunity to do that with the standard TR4A chassis, which doesn't have these brackets. ^ aside from the top T-shirt the welding is now all done. The bare metal primed and the edges seam sealed. I'm very pleased with their work. ^ I supplied the paint and agreed a price with Mark to roll it on. I might add that their preferred way would be to spend more time prepping the chassis for paint and then spray-applying two-pack in satin-black ..for a very durable show-car finish. Alas, I have to be very watchful of the final cost and for a road car., I'm very happy with a hand painted / rolled finish. I asked for this paint to be applied as thin as practical, and despite doing so - he's done a great job in achieving an even covering. Credit to Mark., it's neater than I might have hoped for. Hopefully the cooler temperatures after last night's rain helped with the working times. Oh yes, I am aware that semi-satin black is standard Triumph, but I wanted silver because my tired old eyes can then better see if anything is amiss ..fastenings working loose, reoccurrence of rust, &/or oil leaks, etc. Boat and caravan / trailer chassis are very often bright galvanised or silver painted ..but car manufacturer usually prefer not to highlight the fact that their cars leaked as 'original' direct from the factory. Any who frown might like to reflect on Triumph's works race TR4 chassis, which was I believe painted brilliant white, as indeed it seems TR Enterprises TR4 FIA Race car was < here >. Once the paint on this side of the chassis has gone hard, then the chassis will of course be flipped for the top faces likewise painted. Thereafter mechanical reassembly commences. I'm well pleased, Pete.
  9. I reviewed the design, last night and this morning, and have decided to move the axle 4" further forward. This allows me that much more usable space behind the axle to position any heavier provisions and my water container as a counterbalance to nose weight. . . ^ Previous version left, revised to the right. Looking more conventional perhaps because to move the axles forward - I've reshaped the trailer's plan view slightly, to be wider at the front corners because this means the trailer's body is more parallel over the wheels in their new position. I've shortened the front of the body by 15mm, leaving the ball hitch where it was, to ensure a good turning circle (changing its jack-knife angle from 40 degrees to 44 degrees), and I've also altered the corners from R.100mm to R.75mm, so that the trailer now looks a little squarer and less tapered than before. The change to the radius was because.. that was the inside diameter of an off-cut length of drainage tube which had been dumped alongside my boat . . . ^ exciting isn't it ? ..but therein lies the cornerstone to the new trailer. ^ with 70cm of pipe cut off and then sliced longways, I have two moulds. These have been gel-coated white (I think the gel was left over from when I was making cockpit hatches for my boat ..a number of years ago). The bigger plywood panel was dumped in the skip a year or so ago, and the smaller panel I did buy (ten years ago now) for fitting out the boat, but never used it because it was unnecessarily strong and heavy. So cost of materials so far : zilch ^ laminated with grass-fibre ..well mainly glass-fibre but a piece of grass was picked up and moulded in after that piece of mat found it's way onto the floor. I've started Pete.
  10. M&T are 170 miles away from me. They're in Wolverhampton and as you know I'm in Ipswich, Suffolk ..just down the road from your good self. Mark is very accommodating to my particular peculiar needs. However, I also try to keep a tight reign on the final bill, firstly by listening carefully to what's being said and then by summing up whether I need them to do any particular job or not. As an example ; I wanted TR6 rear-deck body-mounts (on the step, just behind the seats) added to 4A chassis. Mark advised that the underside of the TR6 body also has extra body mountings brackets (similar to those from the sills) and so all-together my having those two extra mounts were going to add up to another big chunk of money. After consideration I've decided to have the mounting brackets fitted to the chassis ..but not to have the body modified with those surprisingly expensive TR6 brackets. This decision also saves the labour cost of M&T fitting those brackets and their locally re-painting those areas. Why should I want those mounts anyway ? ..because if I fit a roll-over bar then I'll want to land the RO-bar onto the chassis and not just onto the body tub. If, and that is still an "if" because I don't know for certain I'll fit a RO-bar, then I can simply insert appropriate packing above the body mount and then sandwich the body's rear-deck between the chassis mount and the RO-bar. This way I get what I want but save £-hundreds in additional cost. Do I trust they do their work correctly ? Well yes, literally with my life ! Once the chassis swap is done - I'll be driving the car from their premises and five minutes later I'll be on a very busy stretch of the West Midlands M6 for the 170 mile return trip. Tbh., I'll be pretty pissed off if the car is the cause of an accident, or if I have issues with what's been done ..so the car has to go back. Pete.
  11. Likewise I've seen far worse where floor panels and sills and a few patches fixes things up again. The question is whether it's more economical to just buy another Spitfire or whether you feel that one deserves being saved from the crusher. I don't supposed you're allowed to build a special on the Spitfire chassis in Germany ? That could be fun. Chin up Andy they'll be something positive waiting just around the corner. No not this corner ..the next one Pete.
  12. Thanks chaps, I'm not sure what to do now. I'll discuss your comments with Mark and review my options. - - - I've just received an update from Mark at M&T Classics, who are doing my chassis mods. WARNING : If you're an ardent "originality" enthusiast or otherwise suffer from welding envy - you might want to look away.. ^ checking the positions of the diff mounting studs before welding in both ends of the top braces. Closing in of those webs yet to be done. ^ Bracing the diff bridges together. Additional gussets. ^^ ^ addition cross bracing support and diagonals, extended T-shirt plate and outside corner gusset / jacking plate. ^ Talking of jacking plates. And then Malcolm's vertical web stiffening of the rear chassis legs . . . ^ starting inside the main chassis rails up, by the gearbox mount, and running right the way to the back (passed the cross tube of the silencer mount) to 40mm from the end. The cut short bottom of the 4A transmission tunnel bridge and diff mounting bridge will be reinstated and the webs of the diff mounting bridge will then be closed in. The front diff mounting bridge have also been closed in. ^ Top T-shirt plate will be assessed with respect to fitting pipes and exhaust within the tunnel. And aside from the temporary WW1 camouflage., I don't think what I've asked for looks at all outrageous. What else can I say ? ..but that I'm well impressed with both M&T's friendly service and their craftsmanship. Pete.
  13. Turning circle ; Interesting question I was asked about on the TR forum ... I looked further into it this morning and an on-line calculator suggests that the TR4's 33ft turning circle (between curbs) results in a 31 degree angle to the trailer. I quickly drafted that in ACAD and tbh it did not look as though the trailer would follow within that turning circle (..perhaps because the calculator didn't use the trailer ball to back-of-car distance). So I altered the drawing to reflect the trailer angle I hope to build and the result looks more realistic. . . ^ A quick approximation of the car with trailer tucked in behind it ; straight ahead and at full lock (33ft turning circle illustrated) with the car at 40 degrees to the trailer. The TR is a small car, just 49" wide so the above gives a good indication of the size of this trailer. Still the pine kitchen table I'm sitting at is 6ft x 4ft and much the same height.. and at just 6" longer that's a huge table for this room. Anyways up., I'll check the turning radius / lock once I actually have a trailer, and if necessary I'll extend the coupling's length by a couple of inches to increase the angle. Pete.
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