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DanMi last won the day on April 24 2019

DanMi had the most liked content!

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    1966 Spitfire MK2

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  1. they hold the bracket that the rear of the hood fits to, or hold the hardtop on if present
  2. probably the hardest part will be getting the aluminium bridge piece to seal against the front plate as you have to remove it to get at the front main bearing. If the big ends were knocking then you will need to check and measure the journals which could be done in the car. Personally I would take the engine out if I could beg borrow or steal a hoist as I would hate working under the oily engine.
  3. just read that you have tried removing the electric fan. I should read more thoroughly.
  4. I would suggest that the electric fan or something else is blocking the airflow through the radiator, as at speed the airflow from the forward movement should be sufficient and no fan should be needed. If it was a blocked rad then turning the electric fan on at speed would have little effect, so the problem would seem to be airflow, of course cowls in front of the rad would help.
  5. Agreed a small amount of end float beyond the factory spec on a used engine is no issue but if we are talking a couple of mm that would indicate a very worn engine, hence that coupled with a "rattle" at revs could indicate a bottom end issue. If they do fall out and that has happened twice for me, then it possibly can be fixed, but better to rebuild before they drop out.
  6. Why it resubmitted my comment I don't know. There is no mention in the parts book as to the larger diameter plug but it clearly happened. According to the parts book my engine should have had the later 5 bolt bridge piece (it didn't) and should not have had the strainer built into the sump but have a strainer on the oil pump which was not the case. I actually spoke to Canley Classics re the core plugs and they said that they were familiar with a mix of dished and cup on the 6 cyls but not on the 4s. There seems to be a lot of undocumented changes to the late 1147 engines
  7. I suspect that the diameter was changed when the mk2 spit had cam bearings. They perhaps had to increase the diameter at this point but to save cost used the same tool for all engines, but never recorded the chnge. When rebuilding my engine many things did not match the engine number and the car had only done 68000 and everything was standard.
  8. my 66 spit engine had bucket plugs for the water jackets but dished for the oil gallery ie cam and the 3 on the distributer side, this isn't noted in the parts book. and as I said the cam one supplied was too small by if i recall 1/8 inch
  9. when I did mine albeit a 66 mk2 spitfire with cam bearings I found that it needed a larger diameter plug than the parts book said I think 2 1/4 rather than 2 1/8 inch and was the dished not bucket type,
  10. is it just revs or is it more pronounced under heavy throttle. Big end will knock (if worn) when you put your foot down under load but not when revved not in gear. I would first check the end float by trying to move the crank pulley forward and back, more than a couple of thou would indicate a worn engine and is easy and free to check. All of the above suggestions are also possibilities and much cheaper to fix!
  11. prop brand new from canleys is £166 so not a lot more than second hand from Ebay. Plus by the time you have replaced the UJs and had a balance reconning a second hand one could well be more expensive. gear lever may be harder to find but if an early 1500 you could consider a column switch like the roundtails with a bit of wiring.
  12. To be honest Doug simply because it is easier to lift the car (couple of pumps on a trolley jack) than turn the steering with the car on the floor to reach the oil hole and I only have a 4 cylinder. plus I want to check wheel bearing play and other suspension joints as part of the maintenance.
  13. The only pressure needed to fill the trunnions is to get the oil through the grease nipple (unless previously greased) as GrahamB says just jack the car up remove the grease nipple and use a standard trigger oil can. I also put something like an allen key under the top seal so the oil flows out easily. There is no need for a special grease gun filled with oil and no need to make up syringes etc.
  14. the main adjustments is the rubber conical buffer attached to the bonnet these often fall apart leaving just a metal circle. The rubbers can be adjusted via the threaded stud that holds them in place. Yes they can rattle.
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