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DanMi last won the day on April 24 2019

DanMi had the most liked content!

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    1966 Spitfire MK2

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  1. there are a number of oil gallery plugs along there (1/2 inch spanner maybe 9/16) as well as the large oil pressure release valve, all have copper washers that may need replacing. All are high pressure so I would replace the copper washer rather than just trying tightening
  2. If the car has sat in the garage for 6 months it could be as simple as stale fuel, which can make it run very badly, mine ran like a bag of nails until I burnt off some of the old fuel and topped up with fresh after lockdown (engine had only done 1500 miles since full rebuild). If the oil leak is from the rear nearside of the head, below the oil gallery plug, it is probably a very common and not worrying fault
  3. In my past experience get a spare and spare nuts to keep handy as they are cheap and fail quite often and pretty quick to change
  4. Be careful I ordered a release bearing on it's last year and the one the supplied was about 5mm thinner so check before using
  5. All looks non standard so could be anything, Passenger ejector seat? The clutch pedal on the floor is likely a hydraulic issue either master or slave cylinder as well as the spring. When converting from +ve to -ve earth all that is needed is to turn the battery around and then polarise the dynamo, as its converted to alternator, there is nothing needed except to put the battery on -ve earth so it will have been done as all alternators are -ve earth
  6. plus you will need a custom propshaft probably best to buy new from David Mac or Canleys (who I think get from DM anyway) as it needs to be shorter and have a small flange at the rear and large at the front. You will also need the mounting plate/mount possibly there. and the gear lever, or use a standard 1500 gear lever and add the switch on the column as on early spitfire/vitesse and you will need to make a wiring loom. It all sounds a lot but really pretty simple oh and you may want to cut the prop tunnel a bit and make a cover so that you can access the prop to gearbox bolts (not sure if needed for this conversion)
  7. spacer for the flywheel bolts to fit 1500 flywheel, I believe is https://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/flywheel-spacer-bush-2 but you would need to check
  8. you have 2 choices 1 get a 1500 flywheel and 4 sleeves to make the bolt holes smaller then use the 1500 clutch or 2 use the 1300/1147 flywheel and clutch cover with a certain clutch plate from \i believe 1 of the dolomites which is the correct diameter with the fine splines eg ebay no 174947059033. The release bearing is the same
  9. I would phone overdrive repairs and have a chat, they were very friendly when I phoned in the past and should have all of the details but as the 3 rail J type was short lived they won't have the details listed on the website
  10. Are we talking the manifold to head gasket here (as I assumed) or the pesky manifold to exhaust. If the latter just get a 4 branch as you will have to replace the manifold, might be worth it in either case I don't have the issue as the mk2 had a 4 branch as standard.
  11. Gungum type stuff may temporarily fix a small leak in the exhaust but I really can't see any chance of it helping a blown manifold gasket unless smeared over both faces, which would involve removing the manifold so just replace the gasket and I would have new nuts and a couple of studs available. You may well be able to get everyting from an MG garage quickly as well just tell them it's for a midget 1500
  12. 18 tooth matches canleys for the mk4 Jtype. I believe on the 3 rail boxes it was the speedo head tpm that varied but on the single rail the drive varied and the speedo was always 1000tpm. The 3 rail j type is rare.
  13. I would check to see if a calliper piston is sticking, this caused strange vibrations on mine. I personally wouldn't bother measuring disk runnout at about £12 each it's easier just to replace same to be honest with rear drums and I have had no issues with the ones I bought a few years back from the club shop but they all probably come from the same manufacturer anyway. Also check for any play in the suspension bushes with a big pry bar. Also check the disks for rust particularly at the back where you can't see it as my modern had brake vibrations once caused by rusty disks which was very difficult to see on the car. oops my prices there were for a 4 cylinder so the disks a little more and the drums even more so
  14. fine though if both can be timed with the gear moved 1 tooth, yes totally impractical at the roadside
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