Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by DanMi

  1. To return to the subject. Cars pre catalytic converters do have a different exhaust smell, which we are no longer used to. Make sure to do a reasonably long run before checking the plug colour.
  2. I just remove the old gasket and clean the groove out, plus any old sealant from the head then put a few blobs of sealant just to hold the gasket in place and let that set for a while. Then fit with new fibre washers without over tightening the nuts.
  3. first check if it is working as any problem could also be the control box. Put a voltmeter across the battery with the small wire on the dynamo disconnected, when running it should read about 12v now put a wire from +ve of battery to the small terminal, the voltage should jump to 14v or over. If it does the dynamo is working and the problem is the control box if it doesn't it's the dynamo. In my experience the problem has been the control box but that may be just me.
  4. type 14 came in with the spit mk3 and herald 1360 so about 1967. Easy way to tell the type 12 are held together with 2 bolts the 14 with 4
  5. agreed Clive the head would be a huge faff to get working well so I wouldn't even start as the cost would be greater than a recon 1500 head! Plus with a second hand engine you have no idea if it is better than the one you have. Plus for £250 you would be a long way toward new shells and a rebore, I would personally if using a unknown used 1500 at least check/replace the shells anyway as not a big job if the engine is out. Personally I would strip the 1300 and see what it needs, at 100000 it has probably had some work. Plus it keeps the car original (if that matters to you)
  6. no to be honest it's all pretty simple I ran my MK2 spit, so originally a 1147cc, for many years with a 1500 linked to a mk4 od box. I found the gearing to be low with the more torquey 1500 but with the od fine or use a spit 1500 3.63 diff. You would also need to recalibrate the speedo as the 1500 box is different
  7. stud pattern is the same but a 1300 head would give a higher compression ratio and you would probably need the 1300 pushrods. I think that the prop would need shortening as certainly on the spits the gearbox is longer and the front flange swopping as the 1500 is bigger, though you could use the existing gearbox by changing the flywheel and clutch over, mounting holes in the flywheel need drilling out.
  8. having it in the water pump housing is probably better as that is below the thermostat, whereas putting a drilling into the thermostat housing would put the sensor after the thermostat. This is the setup on the later cars.
  9. if you still have the original fuel pump get a rebuild kit and refurb that. Often better these days to refurb original parts than my modern repro
  10. if you have a multimeter or 12v test lamp test for power on the purple in the block, if there is no power then follow the purple back to the fusebox checking for power as you go. If there is power then check the resistance between the purple and black and earth, there should be a bit from the horns but if open circuit then you need to follow that wire to find a fault all the way to the earths from the horns. I am assuming that the Haynes manual wiring diagram is correct as I haven't worke on late spit switchgear
  11. they only have one set of figures for the cam journal diameter for all mk3 herald 1360 etc I believe that this is wrong the spit mk3/1300 fwd cam fitted with bearings has the same diameter as the early herald cam journals so 1.8402 - 1.8407. I have a block in the garage that had a mk3 cam in the early 1147 block and was a factory recon unit. But agreed that still doesn't match the figures that you have from the 6cyl cam
  12. did they just not update the owners manual, my 1966 spit owners manual still refers to the older style door arrangement and most of the photos are actually from a mk1 of course Haynes could be wrong!
  13. the reason for small and large journal was bean counters at a guess. Originally the cam was a small journal that ran in the block. They then decided to put bearings in the higher performance spit I guess for reliability, but didn't want 2 sets of block tooling so they bored all to the same and had small journals cams for with bearings and large without. I'm guessing that they had a deal from the cam suppliers on a per unit basis. Then they decided the bearings were unnecessary cost so just went with the large journal cam from about 1972.
  14. According to the Haynes wiring diagram the late 1500 spit did not have a relay (all others did) the switch should have a purple wire going in and a purple/black going to the horns. I would try running a test wire from the purole in the block to the purple/black and see if the horns sound, if it does it is the switch if not the problem is likely elsewhere. this is very different from the earlier wheel centre push where the switch is in the earth from the relay Yo could use a separate switch somewhere but far better to get it working properly.
  15. here is a photo of the factory workshop manual's page for the cam journal diameters which confirms the dimensions given by RogerGuzzi
  16. It is the same camshaft part no 212164 shared by late mk2 from fc61023 mk3 and mk4 prior to FH25000 https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID005552
  17. and the spitfire mk2 at least the later ones and I believe the early mk4
  18. lots of engines were returned to the factory, what John D means is this was not likely to be an engine that was returned and rebuilt as the bores and crank are standard. It probably was sent out to replace a returned engine
  19. DanMi

    Engine rebuild

    in reality there are very few places actually manufacturing the parts so they are likely to be the same from any source. I would be tempted to talk to whoever is going to do the machining as they may be a good source of parts and of course may charge less for the work if they also sell the parts.
  20. I would also say that the gap between the rack clamp and the bracket looks too large which would allow extra movement of the rack
  21. I doubt that 1965 was the changeover year as the spitfire didn't get type 14 until the mk3 in 1967. If you want originality then I would suggest getting a heritage certificate which would note if there was any special fitments at the factory ie disk brakes. It is likely that they were changed early in the cars life to improve braking over drums, so they could well be later hubs etc.
  22. I believe that a herald in 1965 most would have left the factory with drum brakes, disks being dealer fit or later retro fit or special order (so originality not necessarily a concern). The type 12 have less choice of pads. I would therefore go with type 14, as Pete says they may foul the hub but either grind or get later hubs from any later Herald/spitfire. I have type 12 on my spit mk2 and they work well enough though, but parts harder to get
  23. DanMi

    Fox engine rebuild

    I may be wrong but wouldn't putting bearings in the 1500 block mean that you can use a mk3 small journal cam. In the early mk2 the cam ran directly in the block, they then bored the block to accept bearings with the same cam (identical to mk3) then during the mk4 run they stopped using bearings and used a cam with bigger journals to fit the block.
  24. I always use 2 pieces of wood on my spit one under the sump sticking out beyond the backplate and then another on top of that the correct thickness to fit under the backplate. Then simply slide the gearbox along the top piece which puts it in alignment and makes life very easy.
  25. The US introduced unleaded much earlier and manufacturers knew this hence US cars had different specs including lower compression pistons etc. It is overplayed, I ran a 1500 engine for years with no issues but would have unleaded inserts if rebuilding the head but only then
  • Create New...