DanMi

The same fuse supplies the horns so if they work the fuse connection is OK

You are correct, photo is a little confusing as to which wire goes where when they cross. If the voltage drops to zero when flash is pulled I would check for loose/dirty connections in the purple feed

I would put an ohmmeter across the brow/red and blue white from the switch to test if the switch is working ok

read P9 top right 3rd paragraph and p56 half way down refers to the inline fuse near the fusebox not in the fuseboxno3 p40. Plus it is on the wiring diagram though it has it as brown and brown/black with the fuse no 39 (maybe mk1 colours just not updated) It is also wrong as there is another fuse by the starter solenoid for the horns so I guess they didn't include some updates from the mk1

The purple is the non-switched for the flash, it comes from the same fuse as the horns so test to see if they work. The main headlamps are not fused. I would test for 12v at the purple wire and the mk3 certainly did have the flash function

It should have, the wiring is there with an inline fuse near the fusebox behind the parcel shelf. Likely the switch has been replaced with an early non flash herald one. Mine didn't have flash either when I first got it, urple wire was just unattached. Oh and it is definitely mentioned in the MK2 owners handbook

Yes the late mk4 1300 and all 1500s were recessed

also check for wear in the throttle spindles where the pass through the body

has the master cylinder got fluid in it or is it just empty and full of a sort of powder. If no fluid it is probably beyond saving, mine was like this after a few years laid up

I would doubt that the cylinder would hold pressure even if it did free it. Trying can do no harm as if the cylinder has seized it really needs replacing

The clutch plate may also be stuck but the first problem is a seized master cylinder. I very much doubt that even if it could be freed it would hold fluid and the slave will likely be knackered as well. I would just get a load of friends around and push it. Then get new cylinders

you are quoting £235 for steering rack, that is a new one recon one is £87 of course it could also be perished mounting bushes. Brakes are just service items and I would replace as a matter of course on a car of that vintage where I don't know when they were last replaced. Really apart from the engine it is just standard recommissioning after a few years of not being used

To be fair most of those faults are pretty minor Hood from about £200 plus fitting and don't last forever Brakes. As the car has not been used in a while I would replace all seals and fluids anyway and the issue is probably a seized calliper. Its a Triumph gearbox and diff leaks were fitted by the factory Gear change needs rebushing quite regularly and is pretty straight forward 1 minor hole in the body of a 50+ year old car is pretty good Steering, a new UJ is pretty easy and cheap to fix, steering rack a bit harder. door probably just needs the grease refreshing and a few bits connecting Engine is the big one If the body work is good and the price can be negotiated, those bar the engine wouldn't worry me too much. better to have a few mechanical issues than rust!

Yes I have had a couple of spit engines repaired after dropped thrusts. If it hasn't gone too far it just requires the bearing cap to be braised as that gets damaged before the block itself. I may be wrong but 3/16 would seem to me excessive wear but not yet dropped. As to cost it all depends on what you find, pretty cheap if it just needs a refresh with new mains big ends and thrusts. But a regrind adds and then a rebore or hone and rings and then cylinder head and cam. so anything from £150 to over £3000

Don't forget that our cars are at least 45 years old with technology far older. A modern car is adjusting the timing and fuel mixture many times every second, so will idle far more consistently than our cars did the day they left the showroom. They can be set up to run well but it takes time a modern does it for you.

my advice is to get the one you like and then drive it before considering any modifications

as Trigolf says try the brakers also spitbitz.co.uk (Nr reading) Spitfire MK3 and MK4 are the same as 1360

I wonder then if the jiggle pin allows too much through. I found that when I put a pattern stat in my old diesel Jaguar, it never reached the correct temp. replaced with a genuine Ford one, which had more like a one way valve and temp perfect after that, it appeared that the small flow past the jiggle pin was enough to cool the engine.

then either the stat is opening too early/ not shutting correctly or the temperature sensor is under-reading (unless the outside temp is very low and rad too big)

Water needs to be moving even before the thermostat opens to prevent boiling at the hottest places, so there must be a route for the circulation, which this hole would allow. Not all Triumphs have heated manifolds and the heater can be off, yet this is a common design/part.

Don't forget that early cars such as MK1 spitfire don't have a heated manifold and the heater was an optional extra, so that hole is definitely needed then to get the water moving before the thermostat opens.

If the engine number is fh4940HE that suggests it is an early MK4 engine up to FH25000HE, thus it SHOULD have the MK3 cam in it (but who knows) so slightly more power than the later but should have twin SUs (easy upgrade). I personally prefer the smaller capacity revvy engine but hen mine is 1147cc. Buy on condition, neither will beat even a bottom end modern

Trouble with that is the gearbox number only tells us what the gearbox case had in in it when it left the factory not what is in it today!

mk1 block here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353989878629 mk2 here https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=mXhRqwTrPUM note at 8.29 the curved water channel by the end cylinder not present in the early block With this channel missing in the early head, I doubt that a mk2 block would work wit a mk1 head or it could cause overheating/leaks

Do you mean polish the exterior to make it look nice and shiny or polish the inside to aid airflow? If the exterior then just a progressively finer abrasive and finally metal polish, interior as Pete says