DanMi

I found that bonnet catches coming open was best cured with new catches, I happened to find some new old stock ones (still with green wax) replaced and they have never come open since.

lets face it very few of our cars are as they left the factory after 50 years plus of use, abuse and rebuilds, engine numbers etc really aren't a guide to what you have, as anything could have been changed, just because you have a 2500 saloon block, doesn't mean that it is of that spec, it could easily have been built to GT6 spec. I have a spare Herald 1147cc block which was built by the factory as a recon to mk2 spit standard (bar no cam bearings). Bodies shells get replaced etc etc.

Wasn't it only the late GT6s ie the non rotoflex ones that had the domed pistons. Of course any block could have been fitted with any pistons, crank and cylinder head over the years.

Wow a 10 year wait!!!

I use 2 dial gauges rather than measure the gap. So I would close the gap then zero the gauges with the exhaust and inlet fully closed. Then when no1 is at TDC at the end of the exhaust stroke the exhaust will be closing and the inlet opening but at TDC both gauges need to be at exactly the same lift the actual value does not matter. There is quite a bit of adjustment just by moving the sprocket on the cam as the holes are slightly larger than the bolts.

I always split the exhaust from the manifold, Actually on mine remove the manifolds as it is a mk2 spit with a single piece 4-2-1, then you can raise the back of the engine enough for the box to clear the prop and fit to the engine. i support the engine under the sump with a piece of wood toward the rear with a second plank of the correct thickens to fit between the first one and the bottom of the back plate, then raise the engine and slide the gearbox on the planks. The engine needs to be jacked up quite a long way

actually it will be only spit mk4. MK1-3 used 5/16 bolts. But agree it is not worth selling as replacing the UJ and then a balance would be not much cheaper than a new one

OK from the US but shows weber can be done https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273037916435. I have also heard of people using Mikuni motorcycle carbs

you are correct it looks like it has 1 wire from the coil -ve that then joins to 2, 1 to dizzi and the other to tacho. Odd but functional

and does the tachometer work? as there should be 2 wires from the coil -ve one to the distributer and one to the tachometer (white/slate)

for the extra wire you could use one of these piggy back connectors on the new wire https://www.amazon.co.uk/Insulated-Piggyback-Crimp-Terminal-Connector/dp/B00XWDEJEU/ref=asc_df_B00XWDEJEU/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=232042431268&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2188618408675908135&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006906&hvtargid=pla-1930529947110&psc=1&mcid=3d2564d342243458b2288cb8d8a9ab46

spit mk2 and 3 cams are the same, they have the same part number though some sources say that mk3 has higher lift, they will fit the herald engine, though it will run direct in the block rather than running in cam bearings. I have a factory recon mk2 spec block which is actually a herald block so no cam bearings (that block is not used just acquired for spares). I think when they decided to not use cam bearings in about 1972 it was more cost effective to use a bigger journal cam as they had got rid of the tooling for boring for the small diameter non bearing blocks. Couple the mk2-3 cam with twin 1.25 SUs and a 4-2-1 manifold will give you the 67 HP of the mk2 spit. The only other major difference is the valves of the spit use collets rather than the fig 8 attachment plate and of course the spiral rear oil seal of the early cars and the diameter of the cam followers. Just be aware that the mk2 spit engine is very rev happy, which is fab in a sports car

very similar, just that the early spits (1147cc) had a 6 port head so a slightly different arrangement

no choice on my car as the mk2 spit has a 1 piece 4-2-1 manifold which is too long to raise the rear of the engine without removing from the cylinder head.

The difficulty with rebuilding a gearbox yourself, is parts and getting the best fit more than the work. A specialist will have a collection of synchro rings and will try many to get a good fit with your existing parts a kit will just give you 4 random repros, they also have a collection of used parts and old stock that they can source from, which may well be better than new repro stuff. I had mine done by Mike Papworth but it did cost north of 1000 for box and OD but it does work well!

it looks like an aftermarket radio interference suppressor. Can be ignored if you don't have an AM radio

Ah the fun of new pattern parts!

just appeared on ebay if intersted https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325859133382?hash=item4bdeb7c7c6:g:M~YAAOSwkV1lNnBs&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8LOdr8ZGEiT8eqi76k00yBVozSJ%2Flqub%2BaJCX2klC8actgAGDmMPd50Ng8qLHtaCTuPV5ynedjR1Fuqbbc3EL6mcThKLNtpw%2Fysyd1mj%2FErpprA%2F%2BahifOzFm%2BajyO31S%2B662mtxLOTMAoUg0GTU%2Fhx%2FANdLe9kwGj1Sfc51FBtdZur9qkt54R7nkYaARFIem1qxwG1LGIQEtdcPA9AUxcjVoiCm0vWvRfeh4bBsAoCXaXhjFCARi0NgNRCP8PpMeVt9UrCcCsFboDEbdn7aEcM4ZcEz7nq%2BYhe9X2lqyK9sFvIhm8VPV9UWWDJLVg3Buw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_q3-LzsYg

The other (and very important) thing to think about is brakes, if you are making the car go faster than originally designed then it really also needs to stop better! I have no knowledge of Standard 8 brakes but guess that they would be weedy drums all round.

Colin I think you have that the wrong way around, the single rail was 1500 all 1200 and 1300 were 3 rail. There have also been about 3 designs of alloy bell housing, the early ones were weak.

are we sure that the all aluminium gearbox housing of the Standard 8 is strong enough for a 1147 particularly with twin carbs? might be better to use the herald/spit box and bell housing with the 8 top/gear lever even though heavier

you could also just use a metal pipe attached to a bell housing bolt rather than the bulkhead, as there is then no flexing

any second hand part dealer eg spitfire graveyard spitbitz etc will supply a used one often easier than getting the bolts out. spitfire herald etc are all the same

There is H&H ignition systems that do Delco, though when I got mine done it was cheaper to go via the club shop than direct

I would try putting some pipe from the fuel pump inlet into a can of petrol to see if that works which would determine if it is pump or fuel line