DanMi

Vitesse is slightly different on the vernier (according to the Workshop manual) 1 division = 4 degrees so 2.5 divisions would be the factory setting, then adjust by ear from there

the original way to set the timing, as the front pulley only has a top dead centre mark (assuming it is like an early 4 cyl), was to fully retard the vernier then set the timing static to TDC by turning the distributer and then advance the vernier the required no of clicks, on my mk2 spit 1 click = 1 degree. That gives you a good starting point and by noting the number of clicks you will know what the timing is set to

To confuse matters a bit more it wasn't a complete change. The plugs on mine to the water jacket are bucket type but the 3 on the distributer side and the big one on the back of the cam drilling (which are not to the water jacket) are still the welch type, can't really understand why they would machine the block in 2 ways but they did

They changed to bucket plugs in about 1965 at least on the spit though retained the 7Lb radiator cap until the mk3 in 1967 (my 1966 has bucket core plugs ). Apparently they also improved the water pump seal and used different hoses to cope with the pressure (John Thomason Guide to Originality)

just be aware that the 063 that people are recommending (me as well) has the terminals the other way around so the go at the back which is not a big deal and could be considered a good thing as they are away from the clamp

the clutch/flywheel will be fine if it has the later diaphragm clutch, but not the early spring (i ran a mk2 spit like that for 10 years) the 1500 clutch will need a different clutch plate to match to the gearbox. You could use a 1360 exhaust. You would also really as others have said need to up the gearing so either a 3.63 diff or spitfire OD gearbox or both. The other option would be a spitfire 1300 or herald 1360 engine and the 1360 gearing was the same. The 1500 is more about torque the 1300 more revvy

new oil will never stop a noisy gearbox, if it is unusually noisy there is wear, even if that noise was due to low oil there will still be wear, new oil may diminish the noise but long term the wear is still there and getting worse all the time

One question. Is it that the car is sitting high at the front or could it be that it is sitting low at the back, making it look high at the front. A weak spring or disintegrated spring pads can make the rear low.

it is also the case for the 4 cylinder cars. I have measured them and they are just a roughly equivalent which is narrower. (I can't find the photo I took as it was 3 years ago

Could be that a lot of the bearings being supplied, particularly if not in a 3 part clutch kit are less deep than the originals.

saying the cam timing can only be changed by a 1/4 tooth by turning it over or using he other holes is not really true as the holes in the sprocket are bigger than the bolts, so there is a good few degrees of movement of the sprocket before tightening and this gives the fine control, so it can be set spot on without a vernier setup

As the Scrapman has said I would suspect that the horn relay wiring is still inside the car as the relay should be on the battery box strengthener and is not there. There should be 2 inline fuses, 1 for the horn and the 2nd for the main beam flash, both should be close to the hole. I would also advise putting the loom through grommets as it passes through the body.

particularly with the throttle with levers and poles rather than a cable. Maybe convert to a mk4 throttle pedal and cable.

here are the Moss ones note that the lower block is much wider and buts up against the rack bracket, much better than most https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/spitfire/steering-suspension/steering/uprated-steering-rack-mounts.html

Not on all solid clamps. The ones from Moss have a much larger lower block which buts up against the verticle flanges

I have the solid rack mounts from Moss, which do contact the retention plates. I have no problem with vibrations, though still have a standard column joint

I would find out estimated costs. The labour costs to "simply" cut the original valves in will likely end up over 50% of a full recon head

yes lump = entire engine

just send Bernard a link to this thread

You still need to find and sort the original problem, before the valve fell in, ie 1 cylinder no compression and 3 low so you need to examine the head, bores etc before any decision can be made. so probably remove and check all valve seats and maybe a leak down test on the bores to check how well the rings are sealing

If it is running rich also check that the jets are fully returning after releasing the choke, they can be a bit sticky and need pushing up if not carefully fitted and adjusted

certainly don't disturb that seal unless you have no choice, as I believe that the correct profile is no longer available

return spring was the same as the mk2 return springs 136835 and not very strong the movement of the car can make your foot jump on the pedal if the spring is too weak hence when it accelerates your foot moves back slightly so you decelerate which makes your foot move forward, hence the kangaroo effect. I had to make sure that my foot was resting on the A post carpet when my spring was missing to prevent this.

do you have the return spring from the throttle arm down to the chassis. I find that mine jumps if this is not present

1500 is a very easy swop as it is basically the same engine, only downside would be the 4.11 gearing is a bit low for the less revvy 1500. MX5 has been done as has Ford https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=140&t=2012020