DanMi
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Everything posted by DanMi
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Probably had a replacement gearbox from a different car possibly spitfire as those would be reverse light which I don't believe Heralds had
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ah yes missed that bit
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if a mk4/1500 check that all the fuel hoses are sound as it could be sucking in air rather than fuel particularly any hoses on the top of the tank. Doesn't really apply to mk1-3 as they take fuel out through the bottom of the tank mk4-1500 through the top Pete it is a spitfire so will be twin carb unless US spec or converted
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Spitbitz.co.uk
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It doesn't matter which way hence the unused hole bottom right. I would put a smear of sealant around the rocker feed. But I have to agree with Johnny, No1 looks like there has been something rattling around in there with what look like pits to the piston crown and cylinder wall.
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I used the equal lift at TDC method but instead of using feeler gauges I used 2 dial gauges.
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to be honest the punch marks are a rough guide, there is a good few degrees of movement just on the bolts ie the sprocket will turn a few degrees with the bolts in loosely. If you want to get it completely correct you need a couple of dial gauges or use feeler gauges and don't forget new sprockets don't have punch marks
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the cam cannot be 180 out as it turns once for ever 2 turns of the crank. The dreaded 180 out is if you set the distributer drive cog with no4 at TDC with both valves shut rather than no 1. So if the cam is put on 180just turn the crank 360 and it will be correct
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the overflow pipe would not collapse at the slight kink and cause the system to be over pressurised as the high pressure would open the kink (unless mechanically held), It may prevent coolant being sucked back in but that is not the problem. Heralds work fine without the expansion bottle, they just expel a little water if full, then when cool down it looks a bit empty but it expands again to fill when hot, so it should work ok even without the overflow bottle/pipe
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If by rear quarters you mean the rear wings, then the offside is the same but the nearside will lack the petrol cap cutout (If I have that the right way round)
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Which Soft top will fit my non original spit MK2 window frame?
DanMi replied to Assaf's topic in Bodywork & Fittings
You will need to replace the aluminium capping with the one from a mk1-2 as the front of the hood tucks under the front. You will also need the rear stiffener which clips into the hood clips and the 3 stiffeners for the front (available for tr4 surrey top) unless you have these already and you will need to fit 2 male poppers to the outside edge of the screen capping -
I only meant use the phone to check speedo accuracy not a permanent solution
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why not just use your phone, they all have some navigation app with GPS and show accurate speed.
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well the mk3 spit that used that PCV did have a special oil cap only used by the mk3 so they do kind of go together.
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also even if you have a grease point, probably not all 4 bearings will actually get greased as the grease will follow the path of least resistance
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how are you determining that there is no oil pressure? could it be a pressure sender unit or wire shorting so the light stays on, at the end of the day the oil pump is very simple
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That is the front outrigger, it attaches to the main rail in front of the main body tub. The loom to the bonnet comes down the bulkhead and then along the mainrail and is clipped in with that tab with a pastic sheath over it there are 3 further similar clips forward of that one as can be seen in this thread https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/spitfire-and-gt6-forum.8/frame-bent-or-not.915627/page-2
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that tab on the GT6 outrigger is a tab to hold the wiring loom, not for welding as the spit/GT6 outrigger does not have the body in the way so can easily be welded on with the body in place
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I have never seen one.
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how about a full 13/60 system including manifold.
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the cheap ones are mainly Lucas 1500 distributers without the tachometer drive. I have no experience of new ones, I had mine rebuilt by the club shop. SimonBBC seems to have a good reputation. But most of the new ones don't have the vernier on the vacuum unit if that worries you
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As you have replaced everything with new the likelihood is a bad new component. If it was running before try the old condenser, rotor arm cap etc one by one. There is a lot of rubbish new parts about You say timing is correct as it ran before but you also said that the distributer is new so the timing will need setting, no need for a timing light just a test light is sufficient to time it statically
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The club shop can get the original reconditioned by H&H ignition but cheaper than direct (or it was a few years back) either with points or electronic
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check the timing, particularly set the engine at TDC with both rockers on no1 cylinder on the rock ie valves closed. Is the rotor arm pointing to no1 lead. Not difficult to get the timing 180 out Take a plug out after trying to start, is it wet if yes then you have fuel so it is a sparking issue, do you get a good spark? Do you have a good earth strap from the bellhousing to the battery -ve cable attachment bolt
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The MK1-3 use a Delco Remy distributer. Attached is a photo of the page from the MK2 owners handbook MK3 is the same
