[Bars Leak or similar for core plug leak]

Button up trousers - same thing, terrible invention 

[Bars Leak or similar for core plug leak]

I’ll try the K Seal if the weep persists. I’m going to US with work in a while  so I’ll see if I can get some Bars pellets, can you put them in beer to stop you peeing?

[Bars Leak or similar for core plug leak]

Thanks. Good recommendations. The loctite 574 is more likely to be operator error than product failure! Never used the stuff before.

[Bars Leak or similar for core plug leak]

Just changed the core plugs on 2L mk1 Vitesse. Did the job with loctite 574 to seal around the plugs but have a small weep from one of the plugs. Can't find Bars leak pellets anywhere - even on usual auction site they have to come from USA.  Can anyone recommend the best product to plug the weep without damaging the rest of the system?

[Fuel pump for early Vitesse 2l Mk1]

Thanks. It appears Canley sell a kit as well as the pipe by the metre. It's copper vs the original mild steel. Was ideally after steel to match the rest but not an issue.

https://www.canleyclassics.com/?product=petrol-pipe-kits&ptno=PPK12

[Fuel pump for early Vitesse 2l Mk1]

Related question…

Does anyone know a good supplier of steel fuel pipe? Pref one that also supplies the olive and brass fittings required for fuel pump connection.

[Fuel pump for early Vitesse 2l Mk1]

That would also explain the fibre washer that goes on the top of the bolt for the newer style pump. 
 

Thanks for your help. Pump is back on and seems to be working ok. There are also some useful YouTube vids on rebuilding ac fuel pumps - partic this one 

 

 

 

 

[Fuel pump for early Vitesse 2l Mk1]

Just rebuilding the pump and noticed the kit had two rubber gaskets. One is for sealing the glass bowl to the casing. The only use of the other one I can think of is for under the diaphragm on the bottom half of the casing (it seems to fit) but that would seem to block the air holes which I suppose are there to allow air flow assisting the diaphragm to move. Anyone got any ideas?

 

[Fuel pump for early Vitesse 2l Mk1]

The pump ordered from Paddocks arrived and doesn’t fit. Although the angle of the inlet can be adjusted by loosening the bolt on the top, the outlet only has a few possible positions governed by the screw holes clamping the two halves together - none of which are compatible with the original steel fuel pipe, which I really don’t want to have to change. So ironically the EASIEST fix looks like it will be replacing the valves in the original unit! The new one doesn’t look like a particularly good pump anyway, no prizes for guessing the country of origin.

[Fuel pump for early Vitesse 2l Mk1]

Thanks Paul, the pump was definitely right way around as it’s marked “in” on the inlet side.

ordering a new pump from paddocks and will tinker with the old one in due course.

[Fuel pump for early Vitesse 2l Mk1]

Thanks. A lot of useful stuff there. I think I’m going to have to get a new pump as the car has been off the road for 3 years (long story) and I desperately want to get it running this summer and work away from home a lot. I’ll take the spring from the old pump and try to change the valves on the old pump later when time permits. Anyone recommend best place for 1600 / early 2L pump? Rimmers do one but looks like inlet and outlet are at 90 degrees instead of in line. (Part 206623 https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID005923
 

 

[Fuel pump for early Vitesse 2l Mk1]

Thanks Pete, I've done the service using the kit, the only thing I couldn't change was the valves that are crimped in place.

[Fuel pump for early Vitesse 2l Mk1]

I need to get a new fuel pump for my 2lMk1 Vitesse. It's an early one built at the end of 1966 (engine number HC1743E) with the olive and screw-in brass connection. It's the old AC glass pump style and I thought it worked (been serviced with new diaphragm etc) but ... no. Not providing any output, in fact, seems to be sucking in from the carburettor end??

Any ideas where to get a replacement one that fits? Seen plenty for '67 onwards engines but not sure about pre '67 and don't really want to have to change fuel lines if can be avoided (although I have done the hoses).

Cheers.

[Courier back issues]

Don’t know if anyone is interested in all the back issues of courier magazines in hard copy going back to 2010 but I’m about to recycle them. Or free to a good home but they would need to be collected from Winslow, Bucks 

[Flywheel tooth wear]

Maybe it’s down to batch run of the bell housing? Mine has a seam right next to the top hole for the starter motor-there’s enough room for the original bolt, but a nyloc nut to fit on the captive bolt is right up against the seem so you can’t get a socket on it and only about a 1/16th of a turn with a spanner. It’s fine if I tip the starter upside down as the free bolt can go through the same hole to be held by a spanner whilst doing the nut up from the engine side. 

[Flywheel tooth wear]

Very informative and useful info. Thanks. Btw, I found the powerlite unit fits better with the captive bolt at the bottom (rather than the other way around, you can’t get a socket or even a spanner on the locking nut with it at the top - at least on my Vitesse due to interference with the bell housing).  The people at powerlite were very helpful and will even re-machine the mounting plate  for no charge if it otherwise won’t fit.

[Flywheel tooth wear]

Thanks for the disassembly tips. Just wondered what was causing the wear. Thought it most likely the "pull in" from the gearbox side from the original starter as Rob suggested but didn't realise it started life with bevelled gears so maybe it wasn't as worn as I thought! Great stuff! Thanks.

[Flywheel tooth wear]

When fitting new clutch, I noticed wear to the flywheel teeth on the gearbox side. Just wondered if this is most likely caused by the old Lucas starter motor or newer (high torque) unit? I know they have different means of operating and engaging the flywheel..?

[Engine mount]

I always thought Triumph engines left the factory painted black. Some say it was so you couldn’t see the oil leaks! 

[Engine mount]

Thanks, I see the benefit of more room between the fan and radiator but I think I'll stick with plan A.

Whilst I'm on, I take it the main reason the bolts attaching the bell housing to the engine backplate go in from the front (nut attached on the gearbox side) is to keep the threads clean? Except for the 3 studs at the top which can only go in from gearbox side.

[Engine mount]

Inserted the engine block this morning and not entirely convinced the engine mounts are correctly located.

Does the vertical metal section of the rubber block bolt inside the section attached to the front suspension turret or outside? At the moment, they are bolted outside (forwards of) the turret section but not convinced it looks right.

[GT6 Mk3. Oil Pressure Switch.]

It was me that resurrected it today - looking to see if anyone else had solved the same problem I had. Bob should get royalties!

[GT6 Mk3. Oil Pressure Switch.]

Thanks Paul, I did have a theory that the first of the 2L engines had a lot of the 1600 bits from the parts bin - makes sense. 

[GT6 Mk3. Oil Pressure Switch.]

I'll leave it in the dismantling fluid overnight, if that doesn't work with some heat, I'll get the hacksaw to it as you suggest (before accidentally rounding off the corners with brute force!)

 

Thanks

[GT6 Mk3. Oil Pressure Switch.]

Thanks for the info. I thought as much.

It's been soaking in plus gas all afternoon. It'll still be there tomorrow and if reluctant to separate, I'll apply some heat.