TRevver

Got a similar issue. Vitesse 2L MK1. Ordered a new oil pressure switch from Canley but the thread seems different to the old one which is removed with the adapter. Not entirely sure if the new switch is supposed to go straight in the block? as shown for Vitesse 2L MK1 AND GT6 MK1 . in which case how does it seal? It feels like the thread is too loose but may be tapered? the Canley parts diagram doesn't show a washer and the part number is the same for the switch either with or without an adapter (GPS117). Or does it need to go into the adapter - which creates a new problem as the old switch is well and truly attached to the adapter and the adapter appears to be no longer available (tried Mick Dolphin). To further confuse me, only the Vitesse 1600 page on the Canley site shows the switch with an adapter but the 2L (MK1 and 2) don't - neither does the GT6. https://www.canleyclassics.com/?catalogue=triumph-vitesse&diagram=triumph-vitesse-1600-engine https://www.canleyclassics.com/?diagram=triumph-vitesse-mki-2-litre-engine-manifolds-and-carburettors Any suggestions gratefully received! (GPS 117 on the top, old setup underneath)

I just spoke to the guy at EP Services. Very helpful chap called Paul King (07770 747724). He's happy to make a pump up out of spares with ceramic bearings etc, guaranteed for life for about £60 without an exchange unit, if anyone else is interested. He's grateful for any business coming through the forum. I put him in touch with the guy selling the job lot on eBay too.

Mine is definitely the newer (sealed unit) pump. I might give EP Services a call anyway, they might have some old pumps knocking about - there phone number is on the site, otherwise I'll get another one of the camel / roadkill seal variety. I saw the bay ad on eBay for the job lot of 60 but I don't have enough room to hide the other 59 from the other half! Wonder if the club would be interested in buying them?

I spent some lockdown time refurbing the radiator from my MK1 Vitesse. It looked great - for a while! The car didn't run much last year (that's a different story) but I noticed a pattern of "rusty marks" over the engine-facing side. At first I though this was coolant that had maybe escaped from the weep hole on the pump (manufacturers mark is "County"), and then found it's way along the taper and out of the 4 openings at the front of the pump. However, it appears to be where the radiator paint has chipped / flaked off (Eastwood black radiator paint https://www.frost.co.uk/eastwood-radiator-satin-black-aerosol-340g/?ph=782f5d1b5f6507f8e0765137&gclid=EAIaIQobChMItt3Vma2e7wIV-IFQBh0ayAjVEAAYASAAEgIL5fD_BwE). Anyone had any similar experiences or got any ideas what has caused it? Also, the pump was a bit noisy and appeared to be suffering from worn bearings - it was often quite "squeaky" in operation. I've cleaned up the crud from the impeller but am thinking it could be due for replacement. I've seen the posts that they don't last long anyway. Are they all pretty much the same in terms of quality? A N.O.S or refurbed unit would seem a good alternative as it seems they were built to last but can't see any advertised, tried flea bay, Mick Dolphin etc.

The vent on the Rocker cover is completely clear, no wire wool. I think it was just due to seepage around the top of the pushrod sleeves over time. Pete, the block is stripped back of ancillaries and it's booked in for cylinder hone/bore, piston rings, main bearings, etc. May as well get it all done whilst it's in bits, she deserves it! Hopefully over the next few weeks. I'll keep you posted...

The home made tool seemed to work well with 2 x 3/8 flared sockets (7/16 seems to also fit well). The other ingredients I used were a 110mm M8 high tensile nut and bolt with 2 M8 penny washers. The push rod sleeves certainly now look like a better fit. I put a bead of the loctite 290 on both ends as well just to be sure.Thanks for the suggestions.

I was going to skip the baking today and make a ploughman’s instead, but we’ve run out of pickled trunnions.

Thanks for the passing on the results, I made an exhaust clamp casserole not long ago. Could we have a challenger to The Great British Bake Off?

So there is a tool! Albeit for tractors, the head is off anyway so may as well give it a go and try and fashion something up. I'll try some kind of sealant too, only thing I was unsure about was the loctite 290 being stable with the hot(ish) oil - but I guess it works - so thanks.

Thanks, for the suggestions. I might give a combination of methods a go. If applying loctite 290 or similar, did you apply it from "outside" i.e. where the push rod sealing tubes are exposed on the outside of the casing?

Has anyone come up with a solution to stop oil seeping from the cylinder head down the outside of the push rod sealing tubes from above? I was thinking if there is a suitable sealant (temperature and oil resistant etc) that could be placed around the top of the push rod sealing tubes from inside the cylinder head so that they actually sealed?

I believe the spring loading is to cater for the fact that some of the grooves for the o-ring are not uniform depth between different engine blocks and the spring pushes the casing outwards to help seal the o-ring. From Rimmers site: "Anti Oil Pressure Delay Adaptor for Spin on Filter with revised design spring loaded centre which better tolerates any variations in engine block mating faces."

All I have on mine is this... Would the screw-on adapter fit ok? I notice the club shop only sell one type but Rimmers have 2, depending on oil-cooler or not - looks like the club one would be fine anyway as I don't have the oil cooler but does anyone know if the club-supplied one is the "newer" type with the spring-loaded centre?

Thanks. 👍

Quick question relating to this old topic... Is the pipe / hose from the block via the T piece to the sensor just a MK2 thing? I have a Vitesse MK1 and am thinking of changing from the original filter to a screw on conversion and my oil sensor goes straight into the block. Thanks.

Thanks, I’d seen the thread and had heard that other manufacturers used to be the “go to” option. But times change and companies can’t refuse the temptation to be more efficient. Doesn’t always turn out the way they hope!

I’ve seen a couple of threads relating to fitting Ajusa head gaskets. Does anyone have an opinion as to whether they’re any good - compared to Payen say? I’ve got one for the cylinder head on a 2L Vitesse mk1.

I've recently fitted one of these Powerlite units to a 2l MK1 Vitesse (Powerlite RAC101) purchased from the Club shop and thought it might be worth sharing my installation experience! It comes with a captive stud to "assist fitting". This means that the unit can only be fitted properly by removing the gearbox tunnel cover and can't be fitted (easily, if at all) from the engine bay side alone. (I tried fitting it from the engine bay side first - and there isn't any way of tightening the nut that fits on the captive stud, especially the supplied nyloc nut). The cover is fairly easy to remove and re-install without removing the seats etc. It was suggested to remove the heater outlet (two nuts and the heater pipes) to allow the front flange of the tunnel to wiggle out, which is a good idea. It will make the job easier if all of this is done BEFORE removing the old starter motor as spanners can be secured in position from the gearbox (passenger compartment) side of the car whilst the old starter is removed from the engine bay side - much easier than trying to hold a spanner underneath the car (for the bottom bolt) or using a crowfoot (for the top). It is also worth noting that it's difficult to correctly torque the nut onto the captive stud because a socket won't fit properly - as it tightens up, it will interfere with the clutch bell housing (at least it did on mine). I ended up using a spanner to get it about right and then a second nut up against the first to secure it. The picture shows the location of the captive stud from the passenger compartment side.

Thanks, appreciate it. Didn't want bits being chewed off the gasket by the rocker arm!

I have a quick question about fuel pump gasket. I ordered the pump service kit from Rimmers (AEU2760). The gaskets supplied with the kit look slightly different to the one in the parts catalogue. The closest fit has a cross shaped cut out for the pump rocker arm, the original appears to have a pill-shaped oval cut out. Does it make a difference? Thanks.

So both carbs now fully cleaned out and put back together with no signs of any blockages and everything is correctly lined up. No success. Fuel is getting to the float chambers when using the mechanical primer on the pump. I should have probably tried it while cranking the car but didn’t have anyone to hold a jar whilst attempting to start and don’t have the push button solenoid, that’s maybe next job.

Maybe another daft question but should the grub screw holding the needle on the carb piston face the same direction as the diaphragm tab - I.e with the slots on the bottom surface of the piston pointing directly to the manifold? it might be that the diaphragm orientation is wrong in respect of the actual piston? thanks

I’ll have a look what happens to the fuel In the bowl when someone cranks the engine.

Another thought, is this the correct level of fuel in the pump/filter? It looks a bit low to me.

Cheers- will do, appreciate it.