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DrKai

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DrKai last won the day on December 20 2016

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About DrKai

  • Birthday 04/09/1991

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    Coventry
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  1. you may still be right. Having decided I like the look of the original shaped bonnet over the lemans, none of this now fits. Stepped manifold and much reduced airbox to come
  2. Sorry Saleon. Haven't checked this for a while. Do you mean the sandwich plate takeoff from the block or the remote filter plate?3
  3. I've embarked upon some questionable mods but I think that may be a step too far. Update. I blued the valve stem and turned it over a few times. Witness marks almost bang on centre. And I measured the lift with dial gauge which was full as per Kent spec. So as odd as it looks to the eye I'm going to leave it alone.
  4. Thanks guys next time I'm back I'll run some more tests and post results
  5. Pete Burgess did the head so I can hopefully be pretty confident it was done correctly. I've checked that there was no interference but didn't take a measurement as didn't consider valve bounce etc which is a good point. As I say tho I remain confident PB has done things correctly.
  6. Wagger- yes this was my summation. Just trying to see if anyone had done it before. Thanks for letting me know it looks v different from stock as expected. Non-member- as far as I understand it with the valves and shaft at a set height it is impossible to change pushrod side geometry without altering the thickness of the head. As the valve lash is set lengthening the pushrod would decrease lash and then cause opening at supposed 0 lift and shortening the pushrod would cause wildly excessive lash.
  7. Yes definitely shorter pushrods. The standards don't fit even with adjuster screw fully wound up. Non-member. Sorry, I'm not sure I agree. From everything I've read. Valve side geometry (assuming no change to rocker shape) is determined by the length of the valve stem and the hight of the centre of rotation of the shaft. Changing the length of pushrods would only serve to alter the length of the adjustment screw as valve as ore determined valve lash is fixed. Therefore set head thickness (skim), set valve side geometry then add pushrod of correct length to give correct valve lash.
  8. The next time I'm back I'm going to put the dial gauge on the valve and see if I'm getting full lift. If I am and the rocker arm pad isn't coming off the valve at any point in guna leave it. If it is then my cam is 11.35mm lift Vs stock 8.89. So it should need minimal skim to stock geometry ( from what I've read for the tr6 triumph did not follow mid lift method anyway. My concern with machining the pedestals is the springs binding (they already look tight to the eye) hence wanting. If I do decide to machine I'll have to take one off to check fully compressed length and work back from there. It's a minefield eh
  9. https://cambridgemotorsport.com/classic-historic/12719-triumph-tr5-6-chrome-moly-pushrod-set.html Not cheap but I think worth it to keep your adjustability (from your thread I gather your screws are currently fully wound out) even if you don't machine the pedestals.
  10. I Iain saw your thread but didn't want to hijack. The adjustable pushrod is just to check the correct length. I have a set of tubular ones for final use which you cut down and press the end in. It was easy to make just take a little out of the middle of a standard pushrod, tap the ends and thread in to a turnbuckle with stop nuts. See attached. Comparison pictures shows new length compared to stock
  11. Apologies. Have Googled hard. Having previously installed Kent cam and had head skimmed to 10.5:1 compression I set about refurbing the rocker assembly and changing from springs to solid spacers at the weekend. All done ( picture of old shaft wear attached for amusement). Made an adjustable pushrod to get correct length to machine the tubular ones. Done no problem. On checking the geometry when all done the rocker arm angle is far from horizontal at 50% lift. I know in theory the pedestals should be machined down to achieve this giving max lift. Has anyone done this? Is it a worthwhile undertaking? How far off is stock geometry? Thanks Kai
  12. I fell for the bling of the triple Weber lookalikes I'm afraid. They're a pretty to look at when I'm despairing at how long it takes me to get anything done on it at least.
  13. The current one is straight but still fouls the bonnet slightly at the front despite the engine being moved back 6 inches so I'm trying to decide whether to changed to stepped or put a bulge in.
  14. I like your thinking. I already have them
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