Badwolf
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Posts posted by Badwolf
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On to a different question. I have never been satisfied that the plumbing in my Spit (Herald 13/60 engine as far as I know) is correct. Everything works, the engine doesn't overheat, but the heater doesn't work. The control valve has been checked and cleaned, but I never got around to flushing the muck out of the heater matrix so it may very well be gunged up. Not that Spitty heaters are very good at the best of times. I have labeled the pipework in the photo which is a little confusing as it crosses over in places. Looking at other member's cars, there does not appear to be a definitive arrangement. The return pipe from the heater matrix passes under the tee piece marked. I feel that somewhere I may well have equal pressure into both sides of the heater matrix, so the water doesn't actually flow through it. Any ideas chaps/chapesses. (Ignore the green wire, that's a pull cord for another job).
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This is my Mountney, very nice to drive with. Got it from a scrappy years ago.. you know.. in the days when you were left to roam!!
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I put one of these
http://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/triumph-logo-badge-self-adhesive-2
On my 14" Mountney leather steering wheel.
They also do this one
http://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/steering-wheel-centre-badge-late-1500-models-2
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Mine is also 1.5" long. The piston stem (not including the head) is 1.75".
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I have finally got around to checking my oil pressure relief valve after the warning light came on the other week
There was a small piece of metal swarf on the sealing face of the piston, not sure if it was enough to cause the light to come on, or even if it was picked up when I removed the piston. As you can see from the photo, both the spring and the piston shaft are marked. I don't know if this would after its performance or if it is a major worry... I doubt that it has seen daylight for over 40 years. I will put it back together and order a replacement kit when I next order spares... unless someone out there says don't wait!!
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Does your fibreglass bonnet have the two conical rubbers on either side,near the windscreen bulkhead. There should be two receiver plates on either side for them to locare into. My GRP bonnet doen't have the cones.. my steel one does... but needs paint. The GRP is currently packed with 4 rubber pads as a temporary measure....25 years on.
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What is the normal way of terminating the rocker pipe on a MkIV Spitty with HS2 carbs, water bottle on the bulkhead?
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I also have two. Picked up from that great secondhand parts site (fleabay). They both leaked. Got more oil/grease on me than in the car. Got some new rubber washers and no problem after that,
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My SU2 carbs don't have the fittings for the breather pipes. The Su hs4s do (I think). The pipe from the rocker box just dangles behind the main bulkhead, just below the engine so that the fumes don't go inside the car. No doubt Uncle Pete will have something to say about my dangly bit!! Before I fitted the pipe, the back of the carbs were covered in a coating of oil spray and other yuk,
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I assume that you have seen these...
Which are the rivet version, might be worth asking the seller what diameter they are.
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Dick. Thanks for that. May try that before getting out the drill.
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Doug. Thanks (as ever). Do you prefer the screw version or the pop rivet variety, (thinking about doing the rest of the car) especially if drilling through the floor. Ali pop rivets don't rust or stick out from underneath as much, so less chance of personal damage when working under car.
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I have been following the thread about carpet eyelet, etc. Does anyone else have problems with the section of carpet that goes up the side of the body by the door post, especially on the drivers side. I have taped it, glued it even tried a large clothes peg and bulldog clip but, it always comes down at the worst time and fouls the accelerator pedal. These clips look like they could be the answer. Has anyone used them for this bit of carpet?
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Will probaly wait for the next RB 'special weekend' offer. They appear to have regular 'knock down/discount weekends' fairly regularly.
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I just packed out the shank of the rivet with a couple of small washers. Worked just like Colin's brake pipe idea
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Doug- Is this the servo unit..
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RH5272
How easy is it to fit? Rimmers have it listed at £102 inc vat at the moment.
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My oil warning light came on after about 10 miles, long after the temp gauge was showing normal running temp, but, sadly, I thought it was the alt warning light (!!!) so didn't check the oil gauge at the time. Could be thinning of the oil as it heated up or, as Pete says, a faulty switch. I suspect (hopefully) a faulty switch.
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Pete. Pushed in the bush and clipped on. Still comes loose.
I have about 5 sets in the spares box, collected over the years and all of them appear to be slack. Hence the appeal for everyone's personal method of holding them together. The passenger side is fine but, of course, doesn't get the same amount of use. 3ft of gaffer tape looks the best plan!!
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Yes, that's the one. Fed up with keep putting it back together. It was also an MOT fail once, so last year when I repaired it prior to the MOT, I left the door card and plastic sheet off and told the garage that if it came adrift again, how to put it back together. Now... yes, it's come off yet again and I am looking to forum members to tell me how they have sorted it out. Mine is metal by the way.
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Ok. On to the next problem. I have seen this posted somewhere but can't find it now. The door linkage on the drivers door keeps coming apart. I strip off the handles, door card, plastic etc, fix it, put it back together and 3 weeks later.. twange, there it goes again. Before I take it all apart again, has anyone come up with a more permanent solution. Bent wire, zip clips, sticky tape... anything to stop the bu**er coming apart again!
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How does it actually work? Is it a simple spring and plunger which is forced open by the oil if the pressure is too much for the spring and if so what causes the oil pressure to build up high enough to force the plunger open?
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I have found that the LED dashboard bulbs that I fitted last year have been very useful, especially with the recent sunshine. The best thing I have added up to now is a cheap 12volt buzzer fitted across the terminals of the indicator warning light. As Pete says, bells and buzzers are much more useful. I might try the same idea across the terminals of the other warning lights unless someone has experience that it might take out some of the somewhat restrictive fuses.
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What about cleaning the piston, attaching some very fine wet and dry paper to the top of it. Cut it into a circle and use the piston to polish the valve seat? Then clean off the piston and reassemble. Just a thought... probably a stupid idea!
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Took the car out for a spin last night to try to get a grip on the oil warning light problem (originally thought it was an alternator warning - don't ask!) Ran up to normal temperature with no warning light with a running psi of about 50. Could be a faulty switch as Pete suggested on another thread (oil pressure oddity). I will get one with my next spares order
** ON TO THE NEXT BIT ** Nose to Tail - 1972 Spitfire MkIV restoration upgrades!!
in My Triumph Restoration Project
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The current set-up was advised by the supplier of the engine pipework who told me the previous set-up was all wrong!! I have a wsm, which page are you looking at. Remember itls a Herald engine not a Spit. I think this is were confusion has arisen with the supplier, despite me giving them the engine number along with photos.