Badwolf
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Posts posted by Badwolf
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Those were the ones that I was thinking of, so ok, not those.
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This is what I was thinking of, there are two shown on the parts diagram in this link..
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Something to do with a window regulator comes to mind. I have a vague recollection of seeing something similar on my Spit but it was a long time ago.
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I can never find out if old stuff has gone off or not. Usually the top is sealed on and not removable!
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..and tape around the inside of the door apertures to stop you slitting your wrists on the sharp metal work. One of those magnet things on a telescopic stick is also useful for retrieval.
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Thank you all for your kind comments.
It just appears to take so long these days to do, well, anything. Tomorrow I will give the dash a rub over with scratch cover treatment and then a spray with a nice wax polish to finish and get rid of the paw marks. Might give the glove box the Lindsay treatment. A quick rub over with black boot polish. We will see. There is once again the possibility of kick starting that well documented failure...refurbing the hardtop. Oinck, oinck, flutter flutter. 🐷
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2 hours ago, Chris A said:
Mine is very useful, it has a clock on it.
So does my dashboard!!!...yippee.
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Try picture framing backing hardboard. You should be able to get some from any 'on the premises' framers. It is slightly thinner (2mm) than normal hardboard or plywood. I would treat both sides with varnish or waterproof PVA to protect from the wet. Being that little bit thinner, there is less chance of causing problems with door closing. I once used standard hardboard covered in vinyl on a previous car and the doors were murder to shut.
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One of the sellers on fleabay has a dreadful attitude to complaints. Not sure which one it is but check the negative feedback for comments. Probably fine if things go ok, but if not, I can do without the attitude.
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My phone is ....er....somewhere. Would ring it to find it, but it's probably flat.
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Another job off the list.
After spending a longer time working on this project than I expected, it is finally finished. First there was the trial cutting using a piece of old floorboard....
The outer rebate was cut using a wood cutter with a 56mm blade in an old Black & Decker drill held on a stand, then a 52mm cutter used to go through. So far so good. The clock fitted, so it was time (sorry, pun not intended) the do the deed. The dashboard was marked up from the back by using the metal dash support as a template (as above). I decided to go against originality and use the existing holes in the metalwork for the clock and the cigar lighter. I thought that drilling another hole in the metal was a step too far.
So with the guide drawings I worked out the centre of the holes and started drilling after covering the front with masking tape to try to protect the veneer.
I drilled a pilot hole through from the back and then, from the front first the outer rebate 3mm deep and then the inner, right through. The wobble of the old drill even in the stand was enough to form the rebate...
I ran a brown picture framers pen around the inside to colour the holes...
and then trial fitted the clock and the lighter. Both fitted nicely.
but the lighter bit looked a bit too new, so it was distressed a little and everything was connected up, (I decided not to include the illuminated thingie on the lighter for a couple of reasons, the woodwork thickness fouled the bulb holder and would have to be thinned, the plastic collar that shows at the front was yellow when it should have been green, but it also increased the overall thickness of the unit) which took some time tracking down the suitable wiring to branch into, but...
..when fitted, I think that it turned out OK in the end. I must retouch the glove box. I only realised how badly it was scuffed when I came to post the pictures. Yes the lighter should be down the bottom but it roughly follows the line of the heater controls so I am reasonably happy. Bit of polish and a rub over and there we are... oh, and the clock keeps good time... a bonus. By the way, you can just make out the new courtesy light under the parcel shelf. There is a similar one on the driver's side, they are now working well and can be turned off when the doors are open when I am working inside, to stop the battery draining. Another job off the list.
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Mentioned this before on here. Live in a fairly hard water area so I use distilled water from the dehumidifiers in my rad along with blue anti freeze. Always carry a small bottle of water in the boot just in case of a similar situation. Can't be bothered with the new fangled stuff. Water was good enough for my father and his father before and....
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1 minute ago, Chris A said:
Buy 2 get a third free. Great, 1 for the oil pressure, 1 for the charging & 1 for the indicators.
Heart attack guaranteed at every junction and roundabout.
You would need a bell for one, a buzzer for another. Klaxon for a third and for something really disasterous, you would need one of these..
I know that PeteL had something similar somewhere.
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Found my spare buzzer last week when I was looking for something else (and need a chuck out!!). Put it in the box for when the original one packed up. That was over 30 years ago. Tandy's best.
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I'm sure that I have a can of that somewhere in the garage. It was used for cleaning Banda ink duplicating machines in my o!d office in the 70s. Also used in industry for degreasing cloth in my youff.
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I had a similar problem some time ago. Cured it with a mix of.. new pressure sensor, fresh oil and replaced the pressure relief valve. No problems since.
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Take care when pulling the dash or any clocks forward. It is ssoooo easy to partially pull off a connector and not notice or, as I did, pull off two and re-fix them on the wrong terminals. Thankfully no damage.
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Aren't there safer ways of heating water than sticking tea lights under a tin bath or have I got it wrong??
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Tried to post the following about an hour ago, only just realised it hadn't 'taken'. That's at least 3 gov websites that don't talk to each other....
There appear to be several government sites within the address below, to check car history. They have difference information..now there's a surprise.
https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/
One section says that the MOT has expired and gives a big red banner. Another says taxed but no mot results returned, like the one Pete posted. There must be many more!!!
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Adrian - Is that a typo or have you really spent two happy hours cleaning your wires. If so, that is true dedication. It takes me all my time to untangle them!
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I believe that the old school solution was breaking an egg into the radiator, without the shell. The egg mixed into the water and the bit that leaked out set solid and sealed the hole. What a mess, and the smell!! Urban myth???
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I have never understood the principal of running a secure installation and then sending all your stuff to a third party (cloud, whatever that is) to take care of!! Had a conversation with a friend recently about bank accounts. I told him (total paranoia here), not to take any payments from people by direct payment to his bank account due to the number of people using unsecure mobile phones or other tech stuff. I eventually got him to realise that it may not be his device that gets hacked but the person paying him money as he had then set up a trail for hackers. I was recently told by someone that they didn't need extra security on an i-phone, then turned on the telly to read about security issues at Apple. Oh well, back to the dark room with a torch and my paperback!!
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Fill it up, jack it up, and away you go
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Got some Wynne's rad seal from Halfrauds last year on one of those £5 off vouchers that they insist on sending me (£10 last week!!). Not tried it yet. I have a weeping/rusty joint at he waterpump return pipe junction and wanted to put off replacing the pipe incase it turns out o be a more horrendous job than I expect. May try putting it in sometime.
** ON TO THE NEXT BIT ** Nose to Tail - 1972 Spitfire MkIV restoration upgrades!!
in My Triumph Restoration Project
Posted
Since I have put everything back together, my overdrive can be a little unreliable. Touching the wires together in the gearstick, it switches in and out fine, so I suspect either the connections to the switch or the switch itself. Can the switch be stripped down and cleaned or is it just a case of drowning it in Servisol and hoping for the best? I don't want to try opening it up as I know they are scarce/stupid money.