Jump to content

Black Cat

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Black Cat

  • Birthday 20/08/1951

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Holbrook, Suffolk
  • Cars Owned
    Spitfire 1500


  • Cars Owned
    Ford Anglia 105e deluxe, Vauxhall Viva. Brabham Viva. Austin Maxi 1500. Mark 2 Ford Escort. Mark 3 Ford Escort. Ford Cortina. Hillman Avenger Estate. Mark 3 Ford Escort Vauxhall Cavalier. Ford Mondeo. Mark 3 Ford Escort. Vauxhall Cavalier. Vauxhall Cavalier CDX Rover 600 Peugeot GT Hyundai Santa Fe. Ford Mondeo Ghia. Renault Clio Nissan Qashqai Built Tiger Avon with 2L Vetec. Triumph Spitfire 1500

Recent Profile Visitors

106 profile views

Black Cat's Achievements


Expert (4/13)



  1. Thanks Pete, wasn’t quite sure if there was any other gaiter but have fitted it all together now and the flat gaiter with the sleeve fits nicely around the ball of the gear stick and seems to seal any gaps.
  2. Hi, I have a ‘J’ type overdrive gearbox fitted in my 1977 1500 Triumph Spitfire. I’m not sure if I have a part missing, I have a flat gaiter with a sleeve which slips around the gear stick and sits on the tunnel and the retaining plate which secures the gaiter to the tunnel. I’m fitting new carpets and the gearbox carpet has a built in leather like gaiter. My question is, is there a rubber gaiter which slides over the gear stick and is fixed to the retaining plate on the tunnel?
  3. No oil leaks yet but the engine has't been put under any real strain yet. might be a different story in a few weeks time.
  4. Its yet to go on the road. Hope to have it on the road this summer. Lucky you being at Hockenheim. Bugger me, wondered why it was so noise.
  5. Just had the geometry set up on my Triumph Spitfire 1500 by a great little garage in Havehill, Suffolk. They have the correct Hunter equipment and Brian at BC Cars Motorsport was so precise in the process. He also checked all the bolts on the suspension at the same time and adjusted the handbrake and also replaced the front ball joints for me with ones which had grease nipples. Can’t recommend him enough. Check out his website at https:/www.bccarsmotorsport.co.uk
  6. There are six Triumphs for sale at Mathewsons auction on 24th April 2021. 3 Spitfires 1 Stag 1 TR6 1 TR4 Each one has a good video tour around the car so you can see what you are bidding on if you can't get there to view.
  7. Thanks DanMi, was looking for some assurance that this was OK.
  8. I’m in a similar position and in the closing stages of a complete rebuild of a 1500 Spitfire, having decided at an early stage to fit new front Spax TT3301 shocks and then at a later date decided to fit slightly larger tyres, Yokohama 175/70/R13 which are now fitted. Now the car has most of its components fitted so the ride height is about where it’s going to be apart from a driver and passenger but the front now sits about 20mm above the edge of the wheel arch which with additional weight of the driver and passenger I’m thinking is far too low especially when turning or going over uneven ground. The rear sits about right, about 45mm above the edge of the rear wheel. The springs I fitted were slightly lowered TT4301 and are supposed to have a spring rate of 330Ibs each with a fitted length of 7.25”, which is what I have without the driver and passenger. With the standard tyres fitted the car was sitting much higher, in fact it was much too high, so by fitting different tyres I thought it would improve the ride height but in reality it didn’t work. Looking in the Moss catalogue the TT4301’s springs, which I have, have the longest fitted length of 7.25” and a spring weight of 330Ibs, they do have a spring with a 7” fitted length with a spring rate of 680Ibs but I’m thinking this may be too stiff and may not help the ride height which is what I’m looking for. Now I do have a set of 1” spaces which can be fitted on the bottom of the springs, that is according to the Moss catalogue but unfortunately they won’t fit on the flange of the Spax shocks bottom so I have fitted them on the top and this has given me sufficient clearance. The first photo is without the spacer and gives me a 20mm gap, second with the spacer fitted at the top of the spring and the third photo is with the spacer fitted and gives me a 45mm gap. What is the problem of fitting the 1” spaces on the top of the springs if any?
  9. Thanks Badwolf but I've already brought and fitted one which I got from Rimmer Bros now. Cost me close £100.00 with postage and packing.
  10. Where can I get the correct seal for the rear windscreen for my hardtop. I've looked in the obvious places, Rimmer, Wins, T. D. Fitchett and Moss but the cheapest one I can fine is still about £60.00.? Have sent a message to COH Baines to see if they have anything suitable. I'm told that it should be a Lip Seal type of profile. Thanks
  11. Think I may not have fitted the first door glass in the correct sequence and may have to remove it and start again as I’m still having trouble getting the glass into the channel. Should have paid a bit more attention to one of the earlier post. As I have all the internal door glass mechanism out at the moment on the second door the sequence I think should be as follows: - 1. Remove the glass channel form the mechanism by unclipping the two round clips which hold it in place. 2. Remove the two nylon guides which are bolted on the end of the channel. These need to be removed to allow the glass and the channel to be dropped into the door from the top. 3. With the channel out, partly insert the rubber seal into the channel and place the glass into the seal and push it in as far as you can with your hands. I then turned the door glass upside down on the bench with the channel now uppermost and with a little gentle persuasion with a rubber mallet taped the channel until the glass was fully home. 4. Fit the other part of the door glass mechanism into the door with the seven bolts. 5. Haven’t done these next parts yet on the second door but I think I will fit the inner seal first. 6. Next insert the glass with the channel into the door and refit it too the window mechanism with the two round clips making sure the round seals are fitted either side of the sliding mechanism and refit the two nylon guides on the ends of the channel. I think you should be able to do this OK as the apertures in the door seem to be correctly positioned for this. 7. Lastly fit the outer rubber seal on the door. Hopefully this is the sequence but if anybody has any other suggestion please feel free to comment.
  12. Finally got round to having another go at fitting the door glass and trim on to the Spitfire today, what a pain they are to fit, managed to get one door done will have ago with the other one next year. Anyway, got the seals fitted after a bit of swearing and dropping a lot of the fixing clips in the door, fortunately I have one of those magnets on a telescopic rod so wasn't to difficult in getting them out. However, I'm having problems in getting the door glass and rubbers into the channel, they just don't seem to want to go in. Can anyone give me some advise on the best way to fit these or is there an alternative product that can be used, like Tiger Seal perhaps? Many thanks
  13. I’ll give that a go. i did try to fit the trim first by fitting the clips to the trim and trying to pull them onto the door panel but that didn’t work. Having looked on YouTube it seems the way to do it is to fit the clips to the door panel first and using the special tool, which I have made, hold the clips in place and push the trim onto the clips. Going to give this a try after fitting the glass.
  14. Hi Ladies & Gentlemen, I’m about to fit my door glass into my 1500 Spitfire, have all the mechanism in place but what is the sequence? 1. Should I fit the glass first? 2. Or perhaps it’s the inside trim? 3. Or maybe the external trim? I’m sure someone has had this dilemma before and will be able to give me some guidance before I start on this task. Many thanks in advance.
  15. Well the whole thing was removed so I will need a thin gasket. Many thanks.
  • Create New...