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Black Cat

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Everything posted by Black Cat

  1. Hi, I have a ‘J’ type overdrive gearbox fitted in my 1977 1500 Triumph Spitfire. I’m not sure if I have a part missing, I have a flat gaiter with a sleeve which slips around the gear stick and sits on the tunnel and the retaining plate which secures the gaiter to the tunnel. I’m fitting new carpets and the gearbox carpet has a built in leather like gaiter. My question is, is there a rubber gaiter which slides over the gear stick and is fixed to the retaining plate on the tunnel?
  2. No oil leaks yet but the engine has't been put under any real strain yet. might be a different story in a few weeks time.
  3. Its yet to go on the road. Hope to have it on the road this summer. Lucky you being at Hockenheim. Bugger me, wondered why it was so noise.
  4. Just had the geometry set up on my Triumph Spitfire 1500 by a great little garage in Havehill, Suffolk. They have the correct Hunter equipment and Brian at BC Cars Motorsport was so precise in the process. He also checked all the bolts on the suspension at the same time and adjusted the handbrake and also replaced the front ball joints for me with ones which had grease nipples. Can’t recommend him enough. Check out his website at https:/www.bccarsmotorsport.co.uk
  5. There are six Triumphs for sale at Mathewsons auction on 24th April 2021. 3 Spitfires 1 Stag 1 TR6 1 TR4 Each one has a good video tour around the car so you can see what you are bidding on if you can't get there to view.
  6. Thanks DanMi, was looking for some assurance that this was OK.
  7. I’m in a similar position and in the closing stages of a complete rebuild of a 1500 Spitfire, having decided at an early stage to fit new front Spax TT3301 shocks and then at a later date decided to fit slightly larger tyres, Yokohama 175/70/R13 which are now fitted. Now the car has most of its components fitted so the ride height is about where it’s going to be apart from a driver and passenger but the front now sits about 20mm above the edge of the wheel arch which with additional weight of the driver and passenger I’m thinking is far too low especially when turning or going over uneven ground. The rear sits about right, about 45mm above the edge of the rear wheel. The springs I fitted were slightly lowered TT4301 and are supposed to have a spring rate of 330Ibs each with a fitted length of 7.25”, which is what I have without the driver and passenger. With the standard tyres fitted the car was sitting much higher, in fact it was much too high, so by fitting different tyres I thought it would improve the ride height but in reality it didn’t work. Looking in the Moss catalogue the TT4301’s springs, which I have, have the longest fitted length of 7.25” and a spring weight of 330Ibs, they do have a spring with a 7” fitted length with a spring rate of 680Ibs but I’m thinking this may be too stiff and may not help the ride height which is what I’m looking for. Now I do have a set of 1” spaces which can be fitted on the bottom of the springs, that is according to the Moss catalogue but unfortunately they won’t fit on the flange of the Spax shocks bottom so I have fitted them on the top and this has given me sufficient clearance. The first photo is without the spacer and gives me a 20mm gap, second with the spacer fitted at the top of the spring and the third photo is with the spacer fitted and gives me a 45mm gap. What is the problem of fitting the 1” spaces on the top of the springs if any?
  8. Thanks Badwolf but I've already brought and fitted one which I got from Rimmer Bros now. Cost me close £100.00 with postage and packing.
  9. Where can I get the correct seal for the rear windscreen for my hardtop. I've looked in the obvious places, Rimmer, Wins, T. D. Fitchett and Moss but the cheapest one I can fine is still about £60.00.? Have sent a message to COH Baines to see if they have anything suitable. I'm told that it should be a Lip Seal type of profile. Thanks
  10. Think I may not have fitted the first door glass in the correct sequence and may have to remove it and start again as I’m still having trouble getting the glass into the channel. Should have paid a bit more attention to one of the earlier post. As I have all the internal door glass mechanism out at the moment on the second door the sequence I think should be as follows: - 1. Remove the glass channel form the mechanism by unclipping the two round clips which hold it in place. 2. Remove the two nylon guides which are bolted on the end of the channel. These need to be removed to allow the glass and the channel to be dropped into the door from the top. 3. With the channel out, partly insert the rubber seal into the channel and place the glass into the seal and push it in as far as you can with your hands. I then turned the door glass upside down on the bench with the channel now uppermost and with a little gentle persuasion with a rubber mallet taped the channel until the glass was fully home. 4. Fit the other part of the door glass mechanism into the door with the seven bolts. 5. Haven’t done these next parts yet on the second door but I think I will fit the inner seal first. 6. Next insert the glass with the channel into the door and refit it too the window mechanism with the two round clips making sure the round seals are fitted either side of the sliding mechanism and refit the two nylon guides on the ends of the channel. I think you should be able to do this OK as the apertures in the door seem to be correctly positioned for this. 7. Lastly fit the outer rubber seal on the door. Hopefully this is the sequence but if anybody has any other suggestion please feel free to comment.
  11. Finally got round to having another go at fitting the door glass and trim on to the Spitfire today, what a pain they are to fit, managed to get one door done will have ago with the other one next year. Anyway, got the seals fitted after a bit of swearing and dropping a lot of the fixing clips in the door, fortunately I have one of those magnets on a telescopic rod so wasn't to difficult in getting them out. However, I'm having problems in getting the door glass and rubbers into the channel, they just don't seem to want to go in. Can anyone give me some advise on the best way to fit these or is there an alternative product that can be used, like Tiger Seal perhaps? Many thanks
  12. I’ll give that a go. i did try to fit the trim first by fitting the clips to the trim and trying to pull them onto the door panel but that didn’t work. Having looked on YouTube it seems the way to do it is to fit the clips to the door panel first and using the special tool, which I have made, hold the clips in place and push the trim onto the clips. Going to give this a try after fitting the glass.
  13. Hi Ladies & Gentlemen, I’m about to fit my door glass into my 1500 Spitfire, have all the mechanism in place but what is the sequence? 1. Should I fit the glass first? 2. Or perhaps it’s the inside trim? 3. Or maybe the external trim? I’m sure someone has had this dilemma before and will be able to give me some guidance before I start on this task. Many thanks in advance.
  14. Well the whole thing was removed so I will need a thin gasket. Many thanks.
  15. Hi, Just acquired a new distributor for my 1500 Spitfire, when fitting it is there a gasket required where it drops into the engine block? Many thanks
  16. Anybody know where the various British Leyland stickers which would have been on the car when manufactured can be acquired. The attached photo has a couple of them but I'm sure there are more. Many thanks.
  17. Thanks gents, now have another problem. there are a couple of small tears on the seams of my soft top where the door windows meets the right angle of the hood above the B post and also looking to replace the windows at the same time, went to a local car upholster in Ipswich and they said they no longer undertake repairs to car hoods and the only other local company which did this work is not taking on any further work as he is retiring. Looked on line to see what the price of a new hood would cost me and came across Donhoods in Birmingham and there prices were very reasonable, the cheaper ones may well be the same cost as having mine repaired but will possible go for a premium quality one. Has anyone had any experience of this company and what is the quality of their product and workmanship like? Lastly, need to refurbish the frame, take it apart and paint it prior to fitting the hood. How do you get those round nuts off the frame, is there a special tool or do you just use mole grips as mind are stuck fast? Many thanks.
  18. Hi, I need to fit new studs to fit the soft top and a tonneau on the doors and along the back edge of the car. Looked at the ones Moss supply and they are plastic, previously mine were steel ones. Anybody know what size they should be and what size pop rivet I should be using and where to get them from. Looking for stainless steel unless I'm told different. I have the old soft top with the socket parts already fitted so they will need to match. Many thanks
  19. They are made in three sections and the two return ends get very narrow and could possible break and I was wondering what would be a suitable material to use. Don't think hardboard would do but the two end sections need to have some flexibility.
  20. Hi, Is the filler card for the rear edge of the hardtop which forms part of the roof lining still available and if so where, if not available, what is it made of and what other options are there for this material?
  21. There is a very small hole in the center of the rubber seal on my filler cap so do you think it is vented, and if so can I block off the vent pipe or should I run a pipe out via the boot floor. Will need to cut a hole in the boot floor as just recently replaced it.
  22. Hi, Having refitted my fuel tank in my 1500 Spitfire I can’t remember what, if anything go’s onto the top of the breather pipe. Should there be a hose which go’s somewhere outside the car. I remember when I built a kit car fitting a non-return valve on to the breather pipe but not sure what goes on the Spitfire.
  23. Yes. been playing around with the gearbox tunnel this morning, cutting an access panel for the oil filler plug. Still need to fit the speedo cable, the pipework to the master cylinder and the fuel line. Think that's all, but expect there may be something else which will come to light, usually after everything else has been fitted. Wish I’d fitted the fuel line before fitting the body, now got to lay under the car to clip it into place and there's not much room under there. I think the reason I hadn’t fitted the fuel line before was I wasn’t sure exactly where it goes. Having replaced the boot floor the new one hasn’t got a hole where the fuel pipe feeds into the boot and despite taking loads of photos of the strip down there is always some which get forgotten. Anybody got a photo of where the fuel line goes into the boot?
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