Nick Bertram

Many thanks for all this. I know from looking at various photos that the one that was in there was the earlier type with a shorter/wider thread. Although there are the same length for float regulation are there different size threads? Maybe I will just order both and return the wrong one!

Hi Colin, Yeah, the first owner had it over 30yrs and it was then recommissioned and sold to the chap I bought it off. It is the same as in the picture posted by Brian above. Mine has 1965 stamped on the top and BTE SGDG on the back of the float bowl. I dont' seem to be able to find the exact needle valve for that model hence me wondering if the ref numbers are interchangeable.

Hi all, Can I jump on this post to ask about the needle float? I just want to be sure that the 1965 solex bte sgdg carb on my 1967 1200 Herald is the same as the B30 PSE1? The photo looks the same whereas in my owners repair manaul it has the B30 ZIC-5 which doesn't look correct - confused I am? My engine number is GA223134E. What looks like the right needle float comes up for for the B30 PSE1 but mine is a later engine number. Many thanks in advance. Nick

Hi Colin, More if anything. Out through the bottom spindles and now out the manifold pipe. I don't have a spare carb.

Ok, so this has now turned into full on starting problems. Rebuilt the carb. Still not starting and leaking fuel onto manifold. Last piece of advice was to check the needle valve. Fitted a replacement. New battery. Cranking and getting fuel to carb. Spark fine. Still not starting either with choke or without, with accelerator or without and leaking fuel as before. Fuel circulating around carb as I think it should. Anyone know of a good mobile mechanic because this is driving me potty!!

Hi Rob, Well to be honest I had seen a little seepage prior to the fuel pump going so I think I will start with the needle valve first. I rebuilt my old fuel pump a few years back with a reconditioning kit so I know the valves and diaphragm are good (checked again obviously). The springs and mechanism aren't broken. I am wondering if some crud has just stopped one of the valves working but it definitely was not delivering even pressure on manual pumping. Rather odd. Thanks for the offer. I may come back to you on that!

Hi Johny, I haven't got a way of measuring no. N

Hi Pete, Thanks for that. I manually blow and check the float needle but I think I have a spare so will swap them out. I haven't changed the spacing either as I there is a washer in between the needle and the top body of the carb. Will have a go at that and let you know.

Hi all, I thought I would update you on the latest running issues. Jumped in her for a long 2hr plus run the other weekend. Started finally after no spark again. Had to replace condenser again. Ran beautifully for 2hrs on the A40 - didn't miss a beat. 2 miles short of my destination on A43, loss of power then came back ok but a little further on loss of power again and this time terminal so coasted into a lay-by which was just there luckily. Checked for spark and plenty of that in all the right places. Fuel level good in tank. Drew/sucked fuel through from tank to inline filter (between pump and carb). Had a fag and burnt my mouth - no not really. Then checked primer lever on pump - not good! I had rebuilt the original pump a few years ago but it was not giving consistent pressure now. A long wait and journey back to London lock up on a low loader. New fuel pump bought and fitted. Still spark. So turned her over....... only to see petrol p*****g out the bottom spindle in the carb on to the manifold. MMMmmmmm I thought. A bit like replacing your domestic boiler and your ageing victorian pipe junctions springing a leak with the extra pressure! Carb off and time for a clean up and rebuild. Duly completed - all jets removed/cleaned/clear, float not punctured, needle valve closing fine, accelerator pump diaphragm was replaced a few years ago and still good, spindles looked fine and closing ok. Fitted carb back on this afternoon. Spark fine. Wouldn't start. Fuel in carb fine but guess what p*****g out the breather pipe and the throttle spindle all over the manifold. What have I missed? Do I have to replace the throttle spindle? Do they wear? Is it better to just send the whole solex unit away to be rebuilt? Many thanks in advance. Nick

Hi all, Just a quick update on this issue. Thought I would start with the easier stuff so I could discount them. Checked coil polarity - ok Checked spark at dist from coil lead - fine Changed condenser - started first time. Took out for drive and up to temp. Started first time from hot - numerous times! Not had to rip into carb - yet. Thanks again for all your comments. Happy Triumphing and sorry to have missed Leatherhead.

Many thanks Chris. Noticed you are in Normandy. My folks have a place 30mins south of Caen near Thury-Harcourt.

Hi Pete, yes have set the mix at idle (turned in air/fuel mix screw until it nearly stalled and backed it off a tad). I have had some dodgy condensers too. Will work through both fuel and ignition systems systematically and let you know the outcome.

Many thanks Nick and to all of your for your helpful comments. It looks like a double check on polarity at coil followed by coil swap. Then onto condenser change before I rip into the carb!

Never checked the manifold drain tube. That is the little pipe with a nut screwed in holding it isn't it? I haven't fitted it yet. There are two wires as you know - the black is fine and just attaches to the dizzy/coil lead. The other one (white) has to be joined in before the coil from the ignition feed but I can't see how that is done on mine. Will not attempt until clearer after more research.

Mmmm I think I will need to check the coil polarity is correct! Therefore on a +ve earth the dizzy wire should be on the +ve coil terminal?

Hi Pete, Even when I pull off the cleaner and dribble some fuel directly in to the carb it doesn't start. I will have a better look next time! What should I be seeing?

Coil has been on for some years and have a spare which I could swap over. It does feel quite warm. I have had condensor problems before (tricky so and so's aren't they)! I forgot to mention that I have bought an electronic ignition kit (+ve earth) which will hopefully deal with that issue. Mind you that will be a new thread as I can't work out how the +ve white lead attaches to the +ve feed.

yeah I had the same thought and have flushed out the carb in situ without stripping it down again.

Yes I normally do Paul. Maybe I need to even more... I didn't think herald engines suffered too much from fuel evaporation but maybe they do.

Right - I have had enough and too many frustrating runs out in my 1200 Herald! Starts from cold with choke third crank. Has done so for years. Settles to idle and runs very sweetly. Take out for run, gets to temp, still running fine if not in start stop traffic. If in traffic can stall and then won't start until it cools down or turn off on the key and won't start until cools down. When running again runs fine without any issues. Work done recently: Fuel system: solex carb rebuilt and new inline fuel filter installed. Fuel pump dismantled and cleaned. Fuel/air mix jet and idle set. Electrics: new rotor arm, points cleaned and gapped, all wires checked and connections ok. Leads and cap all good. My thoughts: try new coil? another new rotor arm? Any other thoughts gratefully received.