PatK

No I've not done that. Thanks. Patrick

Thanks Pete I will do that. Patrick

Thanks Johny, Pete and Graham, I think that I have solved the problem ( time will tell ), by repeatedly rapidly pushing down on the clutch pedal and rapidly letting it return with the engine running. I did it repeatedly for a couple of minutes, and it now seems to have freed everything up as the clutch biting point is now about half way down and seems to be operating normally now. I think that this is a classic case of problems occurring when you don't drive the cars enough. Fingers crossed and thanks again, what a great Club and members to belong to. Patrick

Thank you Johny. I don't think that the friction plate was put in the wrong way round, but it's a possibility. However this problem is only recent, I wonder if there is something sticking on the splines? To rule out the pedal there is 1/2" free play at the top of the pedal. Is there any way I can check if the friction plate is the wrong way round.? I do have an endoscope that I could look into the bell housing with and I guess see the splined boss of the friction plate so if it was the wrong way round would it look longer or shorter than normal? Thanks Johny Patrick

Hi All, I hope yon can give me some help with a clutch slip problem. When reversing up a steep ramp into the garage yesterday and reversing onto a scaffolding board laid on the ground either side of the scissors lift, the clutch started slipping with the clutch fully out and making a squealing sound. It has never done this before. The clutch and friction plate are hardly worn as the car has not been driven more than 1000 miles in 3 years, and only once this year so far. I noticed that the clutch pedal only starts to bite when the pedal is almost fully up, so perhaps it is permanently slightly depressing the clutch ? I was looking to adjust the free play but could not see any means to do it, so perhaps you could give me some of your help and tips. Many Thanks, Patrick

Thanks Hebron, no the hubs have not yet been removed from the car, which will be a next winter job, as the doughnuts have a few small cracks in them, and I will probably replace them with CV joints. If you thought that removing these hubs was a pain, then compared to removing the hubs from a Lotus Elan with the Colin Chapman alloy struts and hubs, this has got to be easier. I do however have a proper hub puller and have removed one of them before. I was really looking for the official Triumph data on re assembly and re shimming should it be necessary to renew the bearings when I do the job. Pat

Thanks Gary, that is so kind of you to put this on your post, it was most helpful and I have copied it and put it on file. Many Thanks Gary. Pat

Thanks Gully, I think my manual is the second issue, but reading page 2 about amendments, it would seem that someone has removed the relevant sections 3.122 to 3.126 and 4.121 to 4. 126 possibly to amend them and failed to do so. I guess that I will have to look for another official manual on e bay. Thanks Gully. Pat

Hi Chris, many thanks for your reply, I have just checked my ops manual 512947 ( Big red cover with large Triumph and GT6 letters on the cover ) and have found that it goes from page 3.121 and jumps to page 3.201, that section has been removed, also Chris I have just found that the section 4.121 to 4.126 is also missing. It looks like these sections were removed before I bought the manual on e bay. So I have no information on how to overhaul the vertical link and set it up correctly. I also have a Haynes manual and although they have a drawing of the rear rotoflex drive section, there is not one section in the manual on how to do the job. Did Triumph issue a service bulletin on how to do this job? It does seem strange that both sections have been removed from the manual. Thanks Chris. Pat

Thanks Johny, I will have a look. Pat

Hi all, I may soon have to disassemble the vertical link/hub carrier on my rotoflex Vitesse. The problem is that the Official workshop manual that I have does not deal with this and is probably an earlier version. Does anyone know at what time the manual changed to include this information and where I might be able to purchase one My manual does not have a date just a part number 512947 on the first page. Perhaps there was a supplement covering the dismantling and re assembly issued later? Thanks for any advice. Pat

Thanks Nick, good information once again. I assume that the Armstrong dampers are the telescopic type and not the lever arm ones that Armstrong used to make? Thanks Nick. Pat.

Thanks for your advice, perhaps I'm lucky, but the rotoflex doughnuts on my car are in a very good condition, there are no cracks in the rubber even with the suspension on full droop. I had considered going for the CV driveshafts, and will go that way when the rotoflex show signs of deterioration. Thanks for your advice again. Pat

Thank you Gary, for all the info, it was just what I needed and it was kind of you to spend so much time doing it. I think that I will do as you have done with the Koni 80-1717s. Many Thanks again Gary. Pat

Thank you Ian, that is most helpful. Trouble is Ian, i don't have the ability or skill to manufacture similar brackets at the moment, but I will keep the excellent drawings for reference and may be able to find someone local to make them. Many Thanks Ian. Pat

Thank you for the info, it looks like I am going to have to modify the Koni 80-1717 shocks. Pat

Thank you for your reply, but now I'm a little confused, if the standard spitfire shocker is a little too long, then what is the correct one for the GT6 Mk3 with the same chassis extension brackets and rotoflex as the Vitresse? Or does it mean that this part of the GT6 is different to the Vitesse ( 1970 2L Mk2 ). Thanks. Pat

Thank you Chris that was most helpful and yes I do have the standard chassis bracket adapters on my 1970 Mk2 rotoflex Vitesse, so I will go down the route that you have given me. Thanks Chris. Pat

Thanks Clive, I will do that and thanks again for your help. Pat

Thanks Paul, but as you see, the rest of the settings are way too hard, that's why I don't want adjustable ones, just simple ones like were originally fitted to give a smooth compliant ride. Thanks Paul Pat

Hi everyone, we have just returned from a great afternoon drive in the Vitesse, which was spoilt by the banging and crashing from the rear suspension that was giving a rock hard ride. The car when purchased was fitted with Spax adjustable dampers and despite setting them on fully soft they are really hard and probably not working too well, so I would like to replace them with simple, non adjustable shocks, but of a good quality, such as Koni or Monroe. So folks the question is do you know which rear shocks are correct with a reference number,and a direct replacement for the rotoflex, rear extension bracket chassis? Also where I might be able to purchase them. It was sad to see that the club only stocks the expensive adjustable ones and not the simple original type ones, I don't need an adjustable damper as I don't race or rally and mainly just potter about when the weather permits. Thanking you in advance for your help. Pat.

Thanks Pete, good info.

Thanks Pete,that now makes sense as I thought that the idle was too fast, so I will set it at that setting.

Thanks Gav that was very helpful, I will try that setting and hopefully that will be a starting point.

Thanks Pete, I thought that these carbs were correct for this Vitesse!