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PatK

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Posts posted by PatK

  1. 2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

    you can with care and a tube squirt some grease on the nose of the front cover that the withdrawl bearing slides on from the wd lever apperture 

    probably this is the sticking point  or its the slave playing up 

    pleased you have kicked it into touch  Ha !

    Pete

    Thanks Pete I will do that.

    Patrick

  2. Thanks Johny, Pete and Graham, I think that I have solved the problem ( time will tell ), by repeatedly rapidly pushing down on the clutch pedal and rapidly letting it return with the engine running. I did it repeatedly for a couple of minutes, and it now seems to have freed everything up as the clutch biting point is now about half way down and seems to be operating normally now.  I think that this is a classic case of problems occurring when you don't drive the cars enough. Fingers crossed and thanks again, what a great Club and members to belong to.

     

    Patrick

  3. Thank you Johny. I don't think that the friction plate was put in the wrong way round, but it's a possibility. However this problem is only recent, I wonder if there is something sticking on the splines?  To rule out the pedal there is 1/2" free play at the top of the pedal. Is there any way I can check if the friction plate is the wrong way round.?  I do have an endoscope that I could look into the bell housing with and I guess see the splined boss of the friction plate so if it was the wrong way round would it look longer or shorter than normal?

    Thanks Johny

     

    Patrick

  4. Hi All, I hope yon can give me some help with a clutch slip problem. When reversing up a steep ramp into the garage yesterday and reversing onto a scaffolding board laid on the ground either side of the scissors lift, the clutch started slipping with the clutch fully out and making a squealing sound.   It has never done this before.  The clutch and friction plate are hardly worn as the car has not been driven more than 1000 miles in 3 years, and only once this year so far. I noticed that the clutch pedal only starts to bite when the pedal is almost fully up, so perhaps it is permanently slightly depressing the clutch ?  I was looking to adjust the free play but could not see any means to do it, so perhaps you could give me some of your help and tips.  Many Thanks,   Patrick

  5. 1 hour ago, ahebron said:

    I am assuming that the hubs have been removed from the car as no one mentioned the oxy/acetylene, hacksaw and BFH.

    Thanks Hebron,  no the hubs have not yet been removed from the car, which will be a next winter job, as the doughnuts have a few small cracks in them, and I will probably replace them with CV joints. If you thought that removing these hubs was a pain, then compared to removing the hubs from a Lotus Elan with the Colin Chapman alloy struts and hubs, this has got to be easier. I do however have a proper hub puller and have removed one of them before.  I was really looking for the official Triumph data on re assembly and re shimming should it be necessary to renew the bearings when I do the job.  Pat

  6. 2 hours ago, Gary Flinn said:

    Pat

    The Canley Classics Website has some useful tips on how to set up the rear Hub End float if you plan on replacing the wheel bearings, here's a copy and paste

    Note 4

    "Replacement wheel bearings should be re-shimmed to give the correct end float/preload. In most cases replacing the equivalent shims and spacers from the old unit will give an acceptable result but if the hub has been replaced or the unit assembled from parts, then the following procedure should be followed. Fit bearing cups into vertical link. Fit outer race and outer shell into vertical link. Fit hub making sure it is fully down. Fit inner race. Put spacer and shims in place - measure across bearing inner race with straight edge and feeler gauge such that the hub and shims are 0.001 - 0.002 higher than an inner bearing race. Fit outer axle shaft fully home and tighten nut to 90ft/lb. You should feel VERY slight play - if you can feel end float, reduce shims - if preload, increase shims. When correct, take apart, grease and fit inner seal.

    One final word of warning, don't assume that every garage (even classic car specialists) is capable of rebuilding roto wheel bearings. We have seen some shocking bodges over the years carried out on customers stuff brought into us after recent work by 'professionals'.  You need to assertain that who ever  you trust your rotoflex with has a proven track record with the stuff, is regularly practised in the art, and has a ready stock of shims/spacers, etc before he attacks it.

    You have been warned!"

    With regards to dismantling, ideally you will need a Hub Puller to remove the outer Hub/Bearing assembly, although I have seen the Outer Driveshaft drifted out with a large Hammer and a Brass drift, but a puller is better.

    The Mk2 Hubs are not as tight a fit as the earlier Swing Axle hubs which definitely need a Triumph Specific Hub Puller

    If your not planning on changing the Wheel bearings and the end float is current set correctly, then reassembly of everything is in the same order as removed, including any Spacers or Shims

    You will need to Press or Drift carefully the outer Hub/Bearing back on to the outer Drive Shaft as there is an Interference fit on the splines (Don't try and use the large Nyloc nut to pull the hub into place or you are likely to strip the threads!) 

    In fact check very carefully the condition of the thread on the outer drive shaft and the condition of the Outer Hub if you are swopping the Bearings

    Good Luck and keep us posted         

    Gary

    Thanks Gary, that is so kind of you to put this on your post, it was most helpful and I have copied it and put it on file. Many Thanks Gary.    Pat

  7. 1 hour ago, Gully said:

    The part number quoted is correct for the GT6 / Vitesse manual, but the Mk 2 / Rotoflex information was added in the 2nd issue. The final edition is the 3rd issue, which includes the late GT6 Mk 3 supplements.

    Gully

    Thanks Gully, I think my manual is the second issue, but reading page 2 about amendments, it would seem that someone has removed the relevant sections 3.122 to 3.126 and 4.121 to 4. 126 possibly to amend them and failed to do so. I guess that I will have to look for another official manual on e bay. Thanks Gully.  Pat

  8. 9 hours ago, chrishawley said:

    Just wondering which aspects of the procedure you need extra information on. If one takes sections 3.122 to 3.126 in conjunction with 4.121 to 4.126 (of the 512947 op.s manual) are those sufficiently comprehensive? Or am I missing what's missing?

    Hi Chris, many thanks for your reply, I have just checked my ops manual 512947 ( Big red cover with large Triumph and GT6 letters on the cover ) and have found that it goes from page 3.121 and jumps to page 3.201,  that section has been removed, also Chris I have just found that the section 4.121 to 4.126 is also missing. It looks like these sections were removed before I bought the manual on e bay. So I have no information on how to overhaul the vertical link and set it up correctly. I also have a Haynes manual and although they have a drawing of the rear rotoflex drive section, there is not one section in the manual on how to do the job. Did Triumph issue a service bulletin on how to do this job? It does seem strange that both sections have been removed from the manual.  Thanks Chris.  Pat

  9. Hi all, I may soon have to disassemble the vertical link/hub carrier on my rotoflex Vitesse. The problem is that the Official workshop manual that I have does not deal with this and is probably an earlier version. Does anyone know at what time the manual changed to include this information and where I might be able to purchase one  My manual does not have a date just a part number 512947 on the first page. Perhaps there was a supplement covering the dismantling and re assembly issued later? Thanks for any advice.

    Pat

  10. 5 hours ago, trigolf said:

    Pat, If you converted from Rotoflex donuts to CV Driveshafts you can use the original top mounts on the chassis and thus 'standard' length shocks. You only needed the top mount bolt- on adapter brackets if you retain roto driveshafts. The brackets move the shock top mounts out to clear the donut. I have recently done this on my Vit MK 2. I initially put the Gaz shocks from the club on, but found them way too hard, even at min setting. I reused a pair of Konis ( specced for Vit Mk 1) that we're still in good nick. It gives a nice compliant ride. 

    Gav

     

    Thanks for your advice, perhaps I'm lucky, but the rotoflex doughnuts on my car are in a very good condition, there are no cracks in the rubber even with the suspension on full droop.  I had considered going for the CV driveshafts, and will go that way when the rotoflex show signs of deterioration. Thanks for your advice again.   Pat

  11. 9 minutes ago, Gary Flinn said:

    Hi Patrick

    Here's a link to the Company I got the Koni 80-1717 Dampers off

    https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwimyPCjodL3AhVLZcAKHV4ZBu8QFnoECA8QAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Flarkspeed.com%2F&usg=AOvVaw0L9ZbmPjxxsHPFFR4_Z9v1

    PS - I have replied to your E-Mail with all the Info on how I fitted them to my old Vitesse?

    Regards 

    Gary

     

    Thank you Gary, for all the info, it was just what I needed and it was kind of you to spend so much time doing it. I think that I will do as you have done with the Koni 80-1717s. Many Thanks again Gary.   Pat

    • Like 1
  12. 22 minutes ago, Ian Foster said:

    Pat

    I built chassis extension brackets for my GT6 Mk2 as per the attached drawing. These do the same thing as the proprietary brackets, but also achieve the correct fore and aft position to line up with the bottom mount.

    Used with Koni 80-1717 dampers (292mm open, 216mm closed) - usually sold for the front of a classic mini. The bushes had to be drilled out slightly, but were supplied with thick wall tubes.

    PS I see you are Dorset-shout if you want to meet up to have a look.

    PPS I also had a bad experience of 'adjustable' SPAX.

    Ian

    GT6-Damper Bracket.pdf 27.48 kB · 3 downloads

    Thank you Ian, that is most helpful. Trouble is Ian, i don't have the ability or skill to manufacture similar brackets at the moment, but I will keep the excellent drawings for reference and may be able to find someone local to make them. Many Thanks Ian.  Pat

  13. 44 minutes ago, NonMember said:

    As Clive said, the correct shock for a Rotoflex car (either Vitesse or GT6) with the chassis extension brackets is NOT a standard Triumph part, but rather a Mini one with some mods. That's why the brackets are sold in a kit with adjustable shocks - because they're effectively a custom part.

    Thank you for the info, it looks like I am going to have to modify the Koni 80-1717 shocks.  Pat

  14. 9 minutes ago, chrishawley said:

    I'm not totally 100% sure of this but: If it's the standard chassis bracket adapters you have then that's a common fitment to the GT6 Mk3 roto. And that in turn has a standard shock that is common fitment to Spitfire. And that is commonly listed as GDA4011; generic versions are available around £40 pair.

    A smaller supplier like Quiller Triumph may be more helpful than the big names (Rimmers, Moss) in sorting out what's right. Tel: 01825 873551  Email: quillertriumph@gmail.com

    I've got 'generics' on the back of my GT6 and they're fine for day-to-day driving conditions.

     

    Thank you Chris that was most helpful and yes I do have the standard chassis bracket adapters on my 1970 Mk2 rotoflex Vitesse, so I will go down the route that you have given me.  Thanks Chris.   Pat

  15. Hi everyone, we have just returned from a great afternoon drive in the Vitesse, which was spoilt by the banging and crashing from the rear suspension that was giving a rock hard ride. The car when purchased was fitted with Spax adjustable dampers and despite setting them on fully soft they are really hard and probably not working too well, so I would like to replace them with simple, non adjustable shocks, but of a good quality, such as Koni or Monroe. So folks the question is do you know which rear shocks are correct with a reference number,and a direct replacement for the rotoflex, rear extension bracket chassis? Also where I might be able to purchase them.  It was sad to see that the club only stocks the expensive adjustable ones and not the simple original type ones, I don't need an adjustable damper as I don't race or rally and mainly just potter about when the weather permits. Thanking you in advance for your help. 

    Pat.

  16. 2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

    with wear and tear its not unusual to reprofile the lead of the cam so you do get a good fast idle  

    as when worn it has a limited uplift in idle 

    then they stall and soot up    needs a good fast idle 1500/2000 rpm so you actually burn the en riched  mixture 

    the  first 1/2" of choke pull wants around 1000  but a lot more on full choke 

    Pete

    Thanks Pete,that now makes sense as I thought that the idle was too fast, so I will set it at that setting.

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