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Mad4classics last won the day on September 2 2019

Mad4classics had the most liked content!

About Mad4classics

  • Birthday 09/06/1955

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    Spitfire MKIII
    Mini 1000

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  1. There's a solution to that; raise the front of the car until the screw thread is horizontal before tightening down - problem solved... 🤓
  2. I have to agree with Pete I'm afraid - Stick with solid as far as possible! But there are places that will make up flexible brake lines properly for you to any specification. I've used these people to make up front brake lines for the popular Ford Fiesta disk conversion on a Mini, which requires very non-standard fittings. http://www.bgcmotorsport.co.uk/ David
  3. Mine measure up as 2BA x 1/2" cheese head slotted for the genuine Lucas L672, if that's any help. Careful, a modern repro unit might be M5 !!! Originally I have a feeling these may have been cheese raised head slotted; but I'm not certain. Cheese head slotted 2BA stainless are easy enough to find, but a quick search for cheese raised head slotted 2BA doesn't return any hits. David
  4. I built a heath-robinson magnetizer which I've used on several instruments with success when the error is a percentage of the reading shown. Makes a good winter project! For a fixed offset across the whole range, you just need to move the needle as Pete indicated. David
  5. It is possible to calibrate a Speedo or tacho yourself if you fancy; requires patience. The attached document covers many different old speedos, but gives a good flavour of what's required. First thing is to give it a good clean and oil; clock oil is good for this because it's very light. Something to ponder if you're not in a rush to do anything. David TM9-1829A.-SpeedoRepair.pdf
  6. 509210 is used on also used on early Spitfire hood catches + probably others. It's 1/2" CSK 10-32UNF posidrive Chrome plated.
  7. The stainless DOT Fasteners made ones are good (as in the lift-a-dot fastener system for hoods and covers). https://www.dotfasteners.com https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222950683749
  8. Hi George, A C40/1 is a 22A dynamo. The control box number should hopefully be stamped onto the baseplate, usually on the back. David
  9. As Pete says, you need to know what you're doing before you fiddle with a control box. There are actually many variants of the RB340 with different current settings for a specifically associated dynamo each with a unique Lucas part number - it doesn't matter if it comes from a ford or wherever. C40 needs a control box set to 22A and C40L one set to 25A. Care needed because the different five digit lucas numbers give a range from 10A to 35A all being RB340 based. David lucas RB340 Part Numbers.pdf
  10. The Spitfire MK3 spare parts catalogue lists 13lb fitted from approx FD46853, 7lb before; it also lists a temperature sender change at the same point. However, fit whichever cap you're going to feel most comfortable with.
  11. Pleased you found one. Came accross this brand new Clayton heater motor which looks as it could be adapted by reversing the bolts and ignoring the flange mount. https://www.holden.co.uk/p/clayton_heater_fan_motor_single_shaft_1_4_in Just for reference; made in Canada? And Ashley Hinton is re-making the original Smiths fan blade using the original tooling, which is where I went when mine broke. https://www.mg-cars.org.uk/ah/ He also sells through ebay:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Spitfire-MK1-MK2-MK3-to-1970-LOTUS-MK14-HEATER-FAN-NEW-/254353759457?nav=SEARCH David
  12. There are always companies who specialise in electic motor restoration of this sort for veteran cars. http://www.robsonandfrancisrewinds.co.uk/veteran/index.html
  13. No I don't know for sure; but except for the flange mounted half way along the front portion which you could either remove or leave it has two bolts passing through and a compression nut fan blade fixing. Perhaps a question for the MGOC forum. It's as @Colin Lindsay says "of similar vintage". You haven't got a lot of room to play with because of the speedo and tacho cable apertures if you chose something else. David
  14. Ok, either the motor needs to be modified to fit the mount or the box to fit the motor. Unlike all later variants the early heater box is just two fixing holes - not flange mount.
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