Mad4classics
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Posts posted by Mad4classics
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19 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
adding 72cm 29" of flex on top of the already existing sounds a good plan for a squidgy pedal
I have to agree with Pete I'm afraid - Stick with solid as far as possible!
But there are places that will make up flexible brake lines properly for you to any specification.
I've used these people to make up front brake lines for the popular Ford Fiesta disk conversion on a Mini, which requires very non-standard fittings.
http://www.bgcmotorsport.co.uk/
David
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5 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:
I wonder which postage option I should go for, when the screws total about £1...
Next working day naturally !
🤣🤣
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Mine measure up as 2BA x 1/2" cheese head slotted for the genuine Lucas L672, if that's any help. Careful, a modern repro unit might be M5 !!!
Originally I have a feeling these may have been cheese raised head slotted; but I'm not certain.
Cheese head slotted 2BA stainless are easy enough to find, but a quick search for cheese raised head slotted 2BA doesn't return any hits.
David
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I built a heath-robinson magnetizer which I've used on several instruments with success when the error is a percentage of the reading shown.
Makes a good winter project!
For a fixed offset across the whole range, you just need to move the needle as Pete indicated.
David
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It is possible to calibrate a Speedo or tacho yourself if you fancy; requires patience.
The attached document covers many different old speedos, but gives a good flavour of what's required.
First thing is to give it a good clean and oil; clock oil is good for this because it's very light.
Something to ponder if you're not in a rush to do anything.
David
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509210 is used on also used on early Spitfire hood catches + probably others.
It's 1/2" CSK 10-32UNF posidrive Chrome plated.
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The stainless DOT Fasteners made ones are good (as in the lift-a-dot fastener system for hoods and covers).
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Hi George,
A C40/1 is a 22A dynamo.
The control box number should hopefully be stamped onto the baseplate, usually on the back.
David
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As Pete says, you need to know what you're doing before you fiddle with a control box.
There are actually many variants of the RB340 with different current settings for a specifically associated dynamo each with a unique Lucas part number - it doesn't matter if it comes from a ford or wherever.
C40 needs a control box set to 22A and C40L one set to 25A.
Care needed because the different five digit lucas numbers give a range from 10A to 35A all being RB340 based.
David
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The Spitfire MK3 spare parts catalogue lists 13lb fitted from approx FD46853, 7lb before; it also lists a temperature sender change at the same point.
However, fit whichever cap you're going to feel most comfortable with.
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3 hours ago, 1969Mk3Spitfire said:
Fortunately, Canley Classics tell me that they have one.
Pleased you found one.
Came accross this brand new Clayton heater motor which looks as it could be adapted by reversing the bolts and ignoring the flange mount.
https://www.holden.co.uk/p/clayton_heater_fan_motor_single_shaft_1_4_in
Just for reference; made in Canada?
And Ashley Hinton is re-making the original Smiths fan blade using the original tooling, which is where I went when mine broke.
https://www.mg-cars.org.uk/ah/
He also sells through ebay:-
David
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There are always companies who specialise in electic motor restoration of this sort for veteran cars.
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25 minutes ago, 1969Mk3Spitfire said:
Do you know that for sure, David? They seem to be more readily available (on ebay)
No I don't know for sure; but except for the flange mounted half way along the front portion which you could either remove or leave it has two bolts passing through and a compression nut fan blade fixing. Perhaps a question for the MGOC forum. It's as @Colin Lindsay says "of similar vintage".
You haven't got a lot of room to play with because of the speedo and tacho cable apertures if you chose something else.
David
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Ok, either the motor needs to be modified to fit the mount or the box to fit the motor. Unlike all later variants the early heater box is just two fixing holes - not flange mount.
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Ok, either the motor needs to be modified to fit the mount or the box to fit the motor. Unlike all later variants the early heater box is just a very simple two fixing holes - not flange mount.
So some mods required - the holes for the speedo and tacho cables are quite close.
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13 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Looks like the same motor, maybe the fan fitment is different?
That looks as if it could be made to fit, especially if the alloy flange part is removed.
The early motors are all 2 bolt fixing - no flange like the others. The first link I posted above shows the actual motor .
The MGB single speed motor could also be made to fit if you ignored the three hole mounting flange half way along the body and used the motor through bolts
David
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Since I last looked at this, the supply seems to have dried up a bit.
If you fancy a motor brand new shipped from America however.
There's a couple of second hand complete heater units on ebay right now. eg...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Spitfire-Heater-Unit-/254703599390?nav=SEARCH
There's no garantee you'd get a working unit - will need attention I think.
The MK3 heater seems to be one of Triumphs famous undocumented changes because the later box in the link above actually takes the matrix listed for the MK4 and a different bulkhead gasket which I ended up making myself because I couldn't find one. (cardboard template in image compared to MK1-3)?
Check dimensions here.
http://www.motoradsonline.co.uk/products/Triumph-Spitfire-Mk4-Heater-matrix-.html
A search of the second hand parts suppliers perhaps.
Where the heater is situated limits the choice of alternatives if you go down that route. You don't want to foul the back of the dashboard or encroach into the radio space assuming you have/ want one.
David
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OK, it's a really bad picture (head in footwell taking it), but on the shallow MK3 Spitfire heater style with moveable footwell side flaps the motor is held on by nuts spun on to the two through bolts that hold the motor together. These are under the fan inside the casing.
You need to release the central fan compression nut and slide the fan off the motor shaft to get to them. Once the two nuts are undone the motor is free and you undo the additional nuts on the through bolts to break the motor into two halves. ( You can just see the lower one of these as a nice shiny new nut between the motor and the casing from when I took mine apart).
I think the brushes were 1/4" square from memory - check.
David
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It's much easier to remove the rubber grommets the cables pass through on the engine bulkhead side and from the footwell side of the heater box ( assuming a PO has not left them off - it blows air out round the cables if their not fitted) first - taking the ones at dash end right off. Then just pull through to the engine bay.
You'll need to unclamp the choke and heater cables from the drivers side of the heater.
If doing this single handed wedge up the heater box with something soft over the gearbox for it to drop on when you undo the bolts.
David
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12 minutes ago, 1969Mk3Spitfire said:
Thanks, David, that’s depressing but helpful.
Honestly, it's not as bad as it sounds.
Spinning the blades might help get it going as Colin suggested if it's just gummed up, but access is difficult; the only way is through the side footwell flaps which means forcing air through the heater matrix fins!
David
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You really need to make sure the motor is the problem first!
Unfortunatly on the mk3 the motor is held by nuts spun onto the motor through bolts which are under the fan inside the casing; so you need to remove the heater box remove the small self tapers holding it together and carefully remove the fan to get to the motor mounting nuts. (Don't break the fan at this point because it's likely the motor shaft is rusted and the fan will be well and truly stuck on - I did and had to buy a new fan blade!)
One of those simple jobs that just spirals since the tacho and speedo cables pass through the heater box and you need to drain the cooling system and remove the tunnel to get access. The heater is held by the four bulkheld bolts under the bonnet.
I had to remove mine because the heater matrix was leaking all over the tunnel. I took the opportunity to replace the motor brushes at the same time because they were quite worn. I think you can get reconditioned motors from the usual suspects.
If it is your motor it may be just the brushes have worn out and need replacing. But as I said at first -make sure it's not something else other than the motor. The heater was an optional extra after all.
David
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1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Any particular type of 'I'm-not-sure-or-too-lazy-to-search-myself' brand you recommend?
I get the one I used from a local chandler.
If you search online for Blue Gee epoxy kit (there are different sizes depending how big your problem is) and Blue Gee woven fibreglass fabric you'll find an online supplier or purhaps someone near you.
David
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I was so dissapointed with the general fit of the Spitfire ABS one I purchased a few years ago that I sent it back; the gapping over the tunnel allowed a hand in up to the knuckles.
So I set to to repair the existing one with a marine epoxy and woven matting repair kit sold for boat repair, I think Pete has mentioned using a similar item for body repair.
This allowed me to rebuild a missing piece round the gear lever and re-drill the gaiter ring fixing holes. I also reinforced the tunnel fixing holes and repaired the front bulkhead mating area where a heater matrix leak at some point had caused a right mess.
The end result is very strong and fits a treat and in the end much cheaper than new.
David
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The number Pete quoted is four up from bottom many pages in...
Always worth droping him an email / or calling; always very helpful.
Early Gt6 / Spitfire rear tail lamp fixing screws - size?
in Electrical System
Posted
There's a solution to that; raise the front of the car until the screw thread is horizontal before tightening down - problem solved... 🤓