Mad4classics

So the link 143747 is available; assume different length? Spitfire MK3 measures 18swg ( looks like piano wire?) 7 3/4" long. I don't know how the spring differs; odd must be some reason the parts are not common, but the length from the chassis hook point to throttle arm is probably different. David Edit: The spring 137482 with link 143747 were fitted to USA spec cars after FDU75001 according to the parts list; these are the same parts listed for the GT6 (perhaps a different spring rate to give a heavier feel with the later spring???), so I suspect the earlier parts for the Spitfire would fit the GT6 and these are still available.

Canley Classics have stock of the extension wire link 136979, but list the spring as NLA; Rimmer Bros have stock of the spring136835 but list the wire link as NLA. Assuming it's the same parts as a Spitfire MK3. With these correct parts fitted I personally like the feel of the accelerator. David

Fleabay is probably you're best bet to pick up good used AF spanners. But don't think they're not still available. Gedore tools in Germany produce some good stuff, just seems UK is must be metric. Depends how much you want to spend. https://www.gedoretools.co.uk/gedore-6091450-7-08-a-combination-spanner-set-8-pcs-ud-profile-3-8-1.html David

Glad you got it all sorted; bit of a fiddle I know. David

The outer column is held by the clamp in the foot well and the top clamp where the bolts are a bit of a fiddle to access- so four bolts in all , captive fixings, to loosen and you can wiggle the outer column down. When I had to do the inner column I found that the sliding joint was rusted solid so had to gently slide if out after disconnecting at the flexible joint and apply a blowtorch - they end up not being moved for years! On the MK3 there's no steering lock to get in the way but you've got to be careful not to disturb the bushes if you decide to go that way. Easier job with the top down! David NB. You'll need to release the inner column sliding joint clamp to adjust either the outer or inner column position, since the outer column should sit against the inner column clamp.

The inner and outer column plus the boss are all connected to earth one way or another. The brass slip ring you see when you remove the boss has to be connected to earth via the pencil and the horn push to operate the horn. From you're description it looks like the back of the boss is contacting the slip ring therefore bypassing the pencil and horn push. There needs to be 2-3 mm between the horn boss and outer column approx. David

Is the outer shaft so close to the boss that it's actually able to touch the ring when you lean on it? The horn should only only sound when the slip ring is connected to earth so removing the horn push or the insulated pencil should break the circuit. David

Colin is right, both the inner and outer column are at earth potential so a short between these doesn't affect anything. The circuit should be made by the horn push connecting the boss to slip ring in the top of the column. The steering wheel boss is earthed by a connection under the radiator and via a shorting link accross the flexible joint next to the steering rack. From your description of leaning on the steering sounding the horn ,it could a short in the boss itself, or a wire chaffed through. David

Hi, Measures 44mm from back and 53mm from mounting face where steering wheel abuts to. You shouldn't need to machine anything, the column is adjustable within limits; either you need to adjust the sliding joint of the inner column to bring the steering wheel closer to you or move the outer column down. Your choice depending where you want the steering wheel to sit. David

The later 1500 arrangement is totally different to that found on the MK3. David

The springs for MK3 are Triumph 145197, available from all the usual suspects. Burlen lists lots of return springs but you'd need to phone / email quoting the carburetter spec (should be AUD257 for UK MK3) to pin down the right one. I've never seen the angel wings on any SU installation. I think they're some kind of patent remedy. David

I think we've got the same manual. The pictures in the manual on 1-309 depicts the Spitfire 4 arrangement, when it was updated they obviously didn't think it worthwhile to show the differences between this and MK2 and MK3. On the MK3 there should be a couple of small holes in the rectangular plate bolted to the manifold where the springs attach. As Pete says, weeny springs; the correct springs have only a small extension when the butterfly is closed. Mine are something like 65mm free length 70mm fitted approx. David

At one time I owned an MGB ( I know not a Triumph) to which a PO had fitted the Lockheed competion servo available from ST at the time. If you stamped on the brakes at 70, the boost ratio on that (no such thing as ABS), allowed all 4 wheels to lock; the resultant cloud of tyre smoke and the noise was more effective than any car horn. l think it alarmed me more anyone else though!!!! David

Interesting throttle return spring arrangement you've got; is that to enable the peddle feel to be set the way that you like it? David

If they're original they're asbestos as you say; modern replacements are Phenolic. So care needed when cleaning. David

The brass spindles supplied are the same diameter as original and so can replace your existing worn ones. In general it's the brass spindle that wears and not the body; I've found the spindles to be a good fit in the bodies I've done. You only need to use the bushes if the bodies are worn and in this case it's best to take it to an expert unless you have a lathe. The burlen servicing and tuning guide descibes boring the bodies to a depth which just takes the bushes without breaking through into the carburetor bore. David

These are the separate ( look like brass insert plates) in the top of the windsceen frame? These are listed for the later cars as Triumph 815136 and 815135 catch plate hood closure. Not sure if these will fit a MK III - can't find a listing that gives the part numbers for MK III. Does anyone know if it's the same on all cars with that type of catch? My MK III parts catalogue only shows the early over-centre type catch. You need to drill out the pop rivets securing the windscreen capping to gain access to the fixings. Mick Dolphin lists these as RARE, but does give a price; just check these are what you're after and give him a call. David

I've got a Martin Tools 265h 7/16 square drive wrench which I found on eBay UK but is made by a company in USA; fits like a glove and allows some really seriously stuck plugs to be undone. David

The other difference between AUD983 and AUD285 is the different damper fitted; AUC8114 vs AUC8103 - these give different piston rise rates. It's easy enough to change one SU carburetter spec to another. David

Rustins do steel wool right down to gauge 0000+ ; I find that too fine for a dashboard and stick to gauge 0000 which is still like gossamer . Any fine abbrassive to dull and flat the surface evenly to the you finish you need will do. David

I think Pete is about right with where the finish should be. I used a full gloss yacht varnish with high UV resistance; only snag is it took ages to dry between coats. Gloss varnishes are clear as opposed to satin / matt which contain clouding agents. To obtain the sheen you want, use wet and dry / fine wire wool to rub out the gloss to get the sheen you desire. End result is a clear satin finish. https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/rubbing-great-finish-satin-gloss/ David

Not only the seal but what I can only describe as the rubber buffer that is round the plastic float. Had reason to take out a new fuel sender a week after I fitted it to find that it had swollen to the point where it came adrift and floated away! Heck of a job to fish it out. David

Knocked this up years ago out of sheet aluminium; was all I had in the shed at the time. It's survived supprisingly well and makes short work of the locking ring. David

Rimmers list 611177 as in stock; funny - didn't realise I was missing this part until now! The diagram does seem to imply it's under the gaiter. David

Since the demise of Castro LM, I use Morris Lubricants K42 which according to their technical dept is equivilent. But everyone is going to have their own favorite. https://www.classic-oils.net/MobileSearch.php David