Mad4classics

+1 for Spalding fasteners; but I also use Namrick and Westfield Fasteners. David

That looks like a bit like the flasher housing connector made by Amp. https://www.autosparks.co.uk/electrical-components/relays-bases/relay-bases/flasher-relay-housing-to-suit-122-156-122-157-122-159-122-381.html David

Colin, Thanks for posting that link; there's a couple of stickers on there that I'm short of. David

If you still have the standard studs then these will not need cutting; but you must use the special nuts to mount the adapters to ensure the wire wheel sits fully home on the cone and doesn't rest on the nut. Sometimes studs get changed for longer / bigger ones when alloys are fitted. David

Pete, Have had the Zeus book a long time, one of the first things on the list I was given to buy before starting my apprenticeship. The companies whose logos are on the back are long gone. David

The tachometer cables I've got are a different size inner and fitting to the speedo; they're not interchangeable. Even though internally when you look at the frame head they're almost identical. The inner on the tachometer measures 0.1 " square and on the speedo 0.125" square. The Delco Remy drive is 0.1". Both have a crimp on ferrule at the head end. The tachometer in the picture is Triumph whilst the speedo head is Mini - but this has the same fitting as the Triumph speedo, got it out to check. David

Think the black one is actually a tachometer cable. Have you tried the fit on the distributor? David

It's difficult to get an exact match unless you're doing all the wood at the same time. And you'll probably need to remove any wax you've applied to get stain and varnish / laquer to take. I use a water based Walnut stain to restore the color on my sun bleached dash after stripping it. Required a few applications to get the right color depth; allowing each to dry. I intend to do the same on the steering wheel eventually. As @thescrapman said; keep in mind that the laquer / varnish coats will take it a shade darker. David

Is this the tapered variety? https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-84331-gold-plug-ip03x-magnetic-oil-drain-sump-plug-ip-03x.aspx David

OK, found an old Mini caliper - it measures 0.75" deep to the bottom of the hose connection. You're using braided hoses looking at the picture you posted; has it got the correct length end fitting? I've pictured a goodridge hose which measures just shy of 1/2" long - so with the copper washer there should be plenty of clearance to the bottom of the caliper connection. David.

I have fitted one of the ones they make for the Spitfire; found them very helpful regards getting the right part. Regards, David

I use an old Hellerman sleeving tool for jobs like that; it's really for expanding electrical rubber sleeving, but works really well on grommets too. You can usually find these for sale on your favorite auction site? A new one can be pricey, but a vintage one is ideal, search for vintage Hellerman tool. I also use it for speedo and tachometer grommets - anywhere where expansion is needed. Failing this it may be down to the way you've already outlined. David

If it has had new wings then they've been symathetically done and spot welded properly as opposed to seam welded, so I'm going to give the clips a try. If it still comes off I'll have to try the glue. David

My N/S rear wing finisher falls at the drop of a hat if I catch it with anything at all; looks like it's only got four clips holding it and they don't look like the right ones. Parts list calls for 16 x 613766 and 4 x 613886; half for each side. I'm assuming the larger ones go either end and the eight smaller ones equally spaced between? Want to get them positioned correctoneswith these it looks like once they're on they're on! David

Bit of a puzzler; worth posting a question on TMF - they're always helpfull. http://www.theminiforum.co.uk David

Clive is right, they are definitely 5/16 UNF as standard. David

If you've put the dodo matting on the outside of the tunnel underneath the carpet it's going to make fitting the H piece that much tighter. Snug enough as it is!

If you're interested and you want to visualise waveforms in the classic ignition circuit, there's quite a good simulation here : http://ltwiki.org/index.php?title=Adventures_with_Analog called sparkignition.asc which is an LTSpice simulation file. You need to download LTSpice software from Analog Devices website here: https://www.analog.com/en/design-center/design-tools-and-calculators/ltspice-simulator.html# to run it; windows or mac only I'm afraid. Running the simulation gives the following; the green waveform in the picture is the ignition HT voltage while the blue is the primary coil current demanded from the battery - it flows both ways after the points open because of the resonance of the circuit. However, whilst the engine is running the net flow will be the charge current from alternator/dynamo into the battery. David

It's not impossible to re-calibrate NEMAG gauges yourself; encouraged after reading Anthony Rhodes document posted above and based on the pointers given in the the very old US War Department document TM9-1829A, I decided to re-calibrate both my speed and tacho; it's a fiddly task, ideal as a winter project but in the end you can get them spot on and have some confidence in what they're saying. Took me several magnetizing demagnetizing cycles to get it right the first time. You do need a few pieces of kit to do it; most notably a large electro magnet which I had to make based on the pictures in TM9-1829A, a small geared electric motor and an optical tacho or some means of measuring the cable RPM. David TM 9-1829A.pdf

Are you refering to the asbestos spacer 147660? Unfortunately Burlen don't produce any spacer blocks for Stombergs, or didn't anyway, even though they make a great variety for SU. When I needed these for my sons car, I approached Mick Dolphin who did have some at the time; don't know if he still has any - listed as rare! David

These are listed on e Bay; no idea of the quality. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-GT6-Hand-Brake-Girling-Brake-Adjuster-Arms-/181966271048?nav=SEARCH Exactly the same thing as Ian posted by the look of it, but labelled GT6.

I always use standard sound proofing felt (the stuff that's black on one side), I like being able to remove all the floor trim - and it works well enough. David

Love wire wheels; for cleaning I don't think anything replaces good old fashioned elbow grease. However, if you're in a hurry, try something like Greased Lightning One Minute Wheels; it's none acidic. David

Pete's right; I've had to replace faulty field windings a couple of times on different starter motors. It really makes a difference to the cranking speed. David

Thanks for your help @Pete; all back together now. Nut was 9/16 UNF - so the lower torque figure. Decided to put the seal flush with face in case I ever need to do this again! Took just shy of a pint to refill - must have pretty much drained the diff. David