Gary Flinn

Yes, I'm always amazed that dealers seem to turn them around so quickly, the one I looked at in Chesterfield was sold to a dealer, he had it listed for 2 days and then it was sold. I was quite annoyed about that one, if I had been given time to view it a second time in the light of day I might have well bought it but the owner was impatient to sell I reckon I've still not heard back from the owner of the 47k miles car, I wonder if a dealers moving in on this one?!! Regards Gary

I will continue looking and hopefully get one before Summers here, it just gets very frustrating that I keep looking and can't find a decent one both mechanically and bodily. I know I'm fussy, but there are a lot of mis-described cars out there, one mans immaculate is another mans average. PS - I'm still waiting for the owner to come back to me with a reply. Gary

Yes, I may never find another like my old one, I've no regrets about selling it, I wanted to try some other classics and have enjoyed both the Tr5 and the Tiger. I do keep in touch with Martin the current custodian of my old Vitesse, but I don't believe he wishes to sell at present. I do wonder if there are any other low mileage, low owner cars still out there, the last one was made in May 1971, so near on 53 years ago so it's very unlikely. I will keep searching, I'm sure more will become available once spring is here. Gary

Nothing with regards to the Main Body, Paintwork and interior, mechanically though you can tell it's not been M.o.t. Tested since 2018! 1. Dangerous Brakes (A Strong pull to the right) 2. Holes in the rear floor pan 3. Gearbox and Differential oil leaks. 4. The hood needs renewing 5. Drivers door handle not working correctly and loose 6. Gear change needs re-bushing 7. Excessive play in the Steering (Worn rack or UJ or both) 8. The worst issue was a knackered engine (47K Miles supposedly?) With regards to the Engine, after a 8 mile test drive, on returning there was a strange noise from the front of the engine when depressing the clutch, when my mate watched the front crank pulley it was moving around 3/16" when I depressed the clutch! Knackered thrust washers or they may have even fallen out? Also, the oil light was flickering at tick over then remained on fully, so it looks like the crank and bearings are shot to me, although the engine was quiet when driving and revving it up which is strange, it could be a faulty Oil pressure sender but do I want to take that risk? My mate who viewed the car suspects the worn thrusts may have been caused by a previous owner riding the clutch all the time, whatever's caused it the engine needs removing, investigating and a probable rebuild I reckon. I suppose some of the above faults are to be expected as the cars not been used much in 2 years and some of the faults wouldn't cost a fortune to rectify, but the owner wants £12K for it, am I expecting too much for it to be road worthy? How much for a Triumph 6 Engine rebuild these day, I'm guessing at least £2K in parts and machining costs then there's all the labour involved with removal and replacement and no doubt some other ancillaries will need replacing too. So unless he's prepared to knock a lot of money off I won't be bothering with this one either, its a shame because the general bodywork, paint and Panel fit are excellent and the interior matches a 47K mile car. Maybe I'm just to fussy in my old age. The search continues I reckon. Gary

Another wasted afternoon I'm afraid, the search continues I reckon.

Yes, I must agree. Temporary Insurance all sorted with Adrian Flux so I'm ok to drive it now😊

I'm going to sort the Insurance today, I don't reckon I'll be able to get agreed value insurance though, as the Cars not mine and the last company I was with (Lancaster) insisted on several photo's of the car from all angles which I just haven't got, I will see what they say. I have asked the owner to take me for a test drive but he's refused, stating he's struggling to operate the Clutch and steering due to old age. Gary

This car was undersealed from new by the factory by the looks of it, but after 50+ years it could be doing more harm than good now😮

I could ask the owner to get it M.O.T. tested and say I'll pay I suppose. Then if it does fail on anything (Probably likely) I could use it as a bargaining tool to get the price reduced? I need to have a look underneath at the Chassis and floor pans, just because it's a low mileage car (47K) doesn't mean it's not rusty underneath. I'll keep you all posted how I get on Gary

I'm taking a mate with me to view and he's going to see if he's insured to drive any other car via his policy, I cancelled my Classic Car insurance with Lancaster when I sold my Sunbeam back in July, I have a company car so that is insured via work. The lack of recent M.O.T. testing puts me off the car, I know if I do make an offer on it and buy it, I will get it M.O.T. tested and this could open up a potential can of worms with extra costs to get it to pass! I need to make sure there are no serious rust issues underneath that will cause it to fail, I was tempted to offer to pay the current owner the M.O.T. test fee and get him to get it done before I make an offer? Gary

I just wondered how many of you currently get your Classic M.O.T. Tested still? I know it's not been required since 2018 (I believe?) I used to get mine done every year for peace of mind and also as a bargaining tool should I have ever been involved in an Accident. I'm going to view (For the second time) a nice low mileage/low previous owners (3) Vitesse Mk2 Convertible at the weekend, the cars not been used for a couple of years but is currently taxed, the elderly owner is unable to drive it anymore however due to health issues and is unable to take me for a test drive. The car was last M.O.T. tested in 2018 and the M.O.T. History prior to this is not good to read with mention of corrosion to the outriggers, Main Chassis and floor, I'm going to take a trolley jack, a couple of Axle Stands and a powerful head torch so I can have a good look underneath for rust I also want to test drive the car so will probably arrange for 1 day insurance, I just hope it is safe and road worthy, the owner states it did have recent work on the brakes. Regards Gary

Another reason I tilted the front bulkhead slightly was to stop the door Quarterlights catching the 'A' Posts, you may have similar issues when you re-fit the doors? Tilting forwards gives you a bit more adjustment on the doors to prevent catching Gary

These Body Build notes are worth a read and might help? Getting a decent Bonnet fit can be a nightmare and compromises may have to be made I'm afraid if the bonnets had extensive repairs I made slightly longer hinge plates out of Stainless steel when rebuilding my old Vitesse, I also tilted the front bulkhead forwards using additional spacer washers under the rear most front bulkhead body mounts, it definitely helped. Keep at it. Gary Triumph Service Training Notes Herald Body.pdf

Colin Yes, I agree, it looks very straight and the mileage of 27K Looks genuine, it appears to have sold already too. I continue to search for a similar condition/mileage Vitesse, hopefully a few more will appear for sale over the next couple of months, I live in hope. Gary

Just spotted this beauty on E-Bay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186235484701?hash=item2b5c7ffa1d:g:lxUAAOSw8kBllRnC Oh how I wish for a similar mileage/condition Vitesse🫣 Gary

Could this be made to fit? https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwiQuMed-r6DAxW7gv0HHVVVD2YQFnoECBQQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Ftameson.co.uk%2Fproducts%2Ff278k-1-2inch-tee-push-in-fitting-pbt-nbr&usg=AOvVaw2ARk_ZowLLKswte48KD3Wb&opi=89978449 Gary

I wondered if it may be too long? You can get rubber Tee pieces for Pond Water Systems but I don't think they go as small as 1/2" ID Regards Gary

I'm not sure if you have enough room for this, but could you fit this 'T' piece meant for the breather pipes (1/2" ID) on a late Spitfire. You might just have enough room to fit it with 2 shorts sections of 1/2" ID Rubber Pipe Regards Gary

I believe this one may be owned by a Guy who lives in the Lincoln area, I'm sure he purchased some original 4.5J rims and 155/80 Tyres off me for it about 8 or 9 years ago. I can't remember his name though😔 PS - It looks like someone is still using it, it's currently taxed Vehicle Tax and MOT status results BHS 443J ✓ TaxedVehicle BHS443J is Taxed Tax due: 1 July 2024 MOT

Hi Tom No unfortunately not, I will message you the reasons why. Regards

That sounds like they may be plated copper busbar and the plating is failing. Some thicker copper busbar and M10 Brass Nuts/Bolts/Washers between the Battery clamp and the centre connection should make a good electrical connection, make sure the connection to the existing plate is cleaned up and all the bolts are tight, that should do it. As John suggests you can get conductive grease but if all the connections are clean and tight, then you coat the bolt/busbar connection with Vaseline that should last. Regards Gary

Presumably the problem is that the bolted connections gets corroded and then provide a high resistance? What your suggesting should work, alternatively, a short length of Copper Busbar as used in electrical panels (suitably rated) with new Brass bolts/nuts/washers would work too. Do you know if the plates are steel or Copper coated with something? Gary

For anyone interested this car is now for sale at a dealer https://www.robinlawton.com/cars/1969-triumph-vitesse-2-litre-mark-2-convertible?page=vintage-classic-cars-for-sale&pg=1 Shame there's no overdrive as it doesn't seem too expensive for a dealer Gary

I've finally got my letter published in Classic Car Weekly😊 I will see if we get any response from the CCW readers on Identifying the car and keep you all posted. Gary

How Long so far Martyn?