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    1970 Vitesse Mk2 Convertable. Volvo V40 ES T2

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  1. Many thanks for all the comments. The plan will be to fit the carpet, with a very hot needle pierce a hole thru from the underside, cut four rectangles in the carpet so that they fits around the fixtures on the floor pan, fit the seats. Get an MOT and back on the road 😀
  2. I think the needle through the carpet from below and then either a box cutter or stanley knife to open the hole. Like the comment to fix the two front bolts and then locate the rear holes, which are I think closed on the underside. Thank you for suggestions. Iain
  3. Peter. Just shows what a small world we ive in. My father had been posted to Australia by Shell and I was born in the maternity hopsital in Lewisham Road, City of Prahran. He was then moved to Trinidad from 1939 to '45 and finally back to the UK, where I have lived ever since. Came to Australia about 25 years ago for a nice long holiday - Melbourne, Sydney, Cairns, dived on the Great Barrier Reef brilliant, walked up Uluru before it was stopped what a place, then to Perth. Thanks everyone. Nice to chat. Iain
  4. 1970 Vitesse 2L Convertible I will be fitting a new carpet soon and wondered what is the best way to ensure that the holes for the bolts on the seat runners are in the right place or does the carpet come with holes already there? At the moment the only solution I can think of is it fit the carpet, ram needles through the captive nuts from the underside but.. Someone did suggest making a template or possibly two and use them to create the holes from the inside. As I presume the holes are not already cut, what would be the best way to creat them - drill, very hot soldering iron, force the bolts through the material. Any ideas would be greatfully received.
  5. Many thanks for the comments. Pete - up to now have not considered fabricating something as I would like to keep the whole, the car that is, as original as possible. The underlying nag would be that once a non-standard bit is fitted could it be the slippery slope to other non-standard bits. But if I can not find one your suggestion will be well taken. I do wonder if the extra bracket thing which is not rusted is really required, it does not seem to have a purpose unless the rotted part flexes when the boot is opened or closed and it presses against the boot to stop the flexing. (That was abit long winded). Will also apply some form of seal with the bolts. Colin - your pic with the two holes is interesting as it would appear that the left hand hole has suffered damage and has had to be remade just like mine. Managed to get it repaired with a piece of metal welded in and the hole with counter sink created. Obtained replacement screws from an excellent shop in Camberely as the thread on the originals had become damaged. Dick - I will email Spitbitz, thanks for that. Peter - How is Melbourne - city of my birth sometime ago 🙃 As you say the steel would have to be a thicker gauge as the present one is quite thin and relies on the shaped profile for strength. Iain
  6. Vitesse Mk2 1970. The bracket that creates the link between the Boot Lid Stay and the Boot Lid has rotted away as can be seen. Did investigate having an extension welded to the right of the hole surrounded by the rust but advised by the mechanic I use for servicing that the metal is so thin that it would likely burn away. Any ideas where I may be able to find a new or even second hand one in good comdition? The interesting thing is - how did it rot away when it is on the up side of the boot lid. Have tried R...s but they appear not to stock that item. Shame that we cannot visit Breakers Yards anymore, used to be intresting wandering, looking and rummaging.
  7. Thanks all for your advice, had a look at the rivenuts website. I only need one plus the cost of the tool to compress. The long bolt and large washer is more and more appealing.
  8. I think I managed to create some of the confusion. The pic with the broken metal is the problem. I do have the cage nut, well several, as all four cage nuts need to be changed. This has the potential to turn into a long and interesting/confusing/why question! I had a chat with the car mechanic who looks after my usual car, not that the Vitesse is unusual, and he offered the opinion that to make a new floor bracket would be very expensive and suggested the idea of cutting out a replacement from a scrapped Vitesse that might be in a breakers yard, but I am warming to the suggestion from Pete to use a long bolt and large washer. Thanks for the ideas
  9. a rear attachment point for the passenger seat on my Vitesse has corroded to the point that the nut etc. to take the retaining bolt has come adrift. It is likely to require the removal of some of the floor pan and then a new/replacement part welded back. Anyone know of a source for the attachment that holds the nut?
  10. Gents Thanks for all the advice, a lot to work through and consider the best route. Paul - yes and no, the thread is all gone. Thanks for the website for the stubb bit Dave - note your comment on over sizing the bolt Iain
  11. Like the idea of a self tap bolt BUT I assume the bolt will be steel and then being forced, to a certain extent, into aluminium the two different metals are very likely to weld togther and difficult to remove at a later date? Taping an 8mm new tthread might be better. Thanks for the comments, though. Iain
  12. Vitesse Con 2L. The thread in one of the holes(?) on the bell housing to retain the clutch slave cylinder has been stripped (not quilty) I have a Clarke RAD-2 right angle attachment and a 210mm long drill bit and, combined, their total length means that I might have to remove the shift mechanism to get the drill in to bore out the hole to fit a helicoil. Which is a bit of a pain. The drill diameter is 21/64, is it possible to get a shorter drill bit, say half the length. This would allow the combined pieces to fit in the space, between the housing and the shift mechanism, to allow a straight drill into the bell housing hole. As an extreme measure I could cut a bit of the current drill bit but the owner would not be to chuffed about that. Any advice would be appreciated.
  13. ean

    clutch brake fluids

    Thanks you everyone for some interesting comments and advice. The brake and clutch systems have had DOT4 all their life and I will probably stick with that. As i stated at the beginning the car has been of the road for some time and the various cylinders looked very grotty so all are getting a good clean and the replacement of all rubbers, apart from the clutch slave on which I was unable to turn/remove the bleed nipple and eventually tore the exposed part of, a well known problem with different metals being in contact for long periods and not being exercised, so a new slave cylinder has been acquired (from the well known big R) Again thanks, greatly appreciated. Iain (real name)
  14. ean

    clutch brake fluids

    Vitesse Mk11 2L convertable I am sure that this has been discussed before but here goes, need some help. Am refurbishing/overhauling the clutch and brake cylinders as the car has been off the road for about three years and the fluid has not been changed for even longer than that. Which DOT fluid is considered to be the most appropriate?
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