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Thanks all. Chrishawley, will give your suggestion a go. The circuit diagram shows wires only for the horn connection, no sign of a relay. A question - why would you use a relay to operate horns when it just needs some cableing?

No, not that I can see.

Just to continue of the theme of horns not working. I have a Mk2 Vitesse. To state the obvious, it has 2 horns and let me call them horn 1 and horn 2. If I press the horn button with both horns connected I just get a clicking sound . If I disconnect horn 1 and press the button then horn 2 sounds, conversly if I disconnect horn 2 and press the button then horn 1 sounds. ? Any ideas or thoughts, please.

Interesting. How did we go from 'Strange number' to chat about Fiona Richmond. Am signing off now and thanks for the help on the SNq.

Interesting comment Pete, a good way of keeping a track on how many each person produced, or is that being a bit unfair. Also in away it would indicate, in another way, how many cars, in this case Vitesse, were manufactured? I wonder where 00001 is now.

Many thanks for the comments. Had tried the sanding but that seemed to be a hard and long process. Taken by the use of an heat gun but with caution as advised. I had not realised or even thought that the visible part was veneered. Iain S

On the continuing saga of sorting out and making good my Mk2 Vitesse Convertible. I have removed the wood strips along the top of the doors as the lacquer is all cracked and falling off and noted the same number in the hidden side of the wood panel. See attached pics. My first thought - is it a part number or is it car number forty one thousand, five hundred and twenty six. :) But on a more serious note. What is the best way to remove the lacquer without spoiling the wood and then prepping the surface before applying fresh lacquer? I understand that acrylic lacquer or melamine lacquer are recommended for best results. Iain S

Triumph Vitesse Mk2 convertible. The seal between the prop shaft and the gearbox case/rear extension is leaking oil onto the exhaust, creating a good smoke screen. Is it easy to replace this seal and, I think while at it, the bearing? Does the prop shaft have to be disconnected and some how moved towards the rear to create space to work? All hints will be greatly appreciated. Whether 'yes easy to do or what ever you do don't'

Oh yes, having a long careful web search, have got prices from six sites so far. Prices seem to go from about £330 to £148. As I am on the Club site, had a look in the shop to see if Vitesse carpets were available - would appear that they are not as no colour swatches are available but are for other models. 🤨

Many thanks for all the comments, it seems like the choice is easy - moulded. The price I obtained was from Rimmers, had a look at other suggestions found that Rimmers shewed what you got as a complete set where the others had all the bits marked separately, will have to do a bit more pricing research.

Following on from the need to replace carpets but doing it oneself. Putting aside the fair difference in cost, what are the pros and cons for a "moulded carpet" against a "stitched carpet"? I notice that they comes in several pieces - do they need to be joined using glue or thread or fitted as supplied? My Vitesse needs new as the previous were very rotten and mouldy, I see that there is a certain company that sells both types.

HI both. Thanks for the info. The pic is just what I wanted.

Doing some work in and around the boot. Removed the lid and support bracket and now ready to be refitted but failed to take a pic of how the lower linkage goes together. Have tried many combinations but nothing works smoothly. Would anyone have or could provide a pic, please.

Many thanks for all the comments. The plan will be to fit the carpet, with a very hot needle pierce a hole thru from the underside, cut four rectangles in the carpet so that they fits around the fixtures on the floor pan, fit the seats. Get an MOT and back on the road 😀

🙂