bluelighttaxidriver

Hey thanks. Forgot to say it has a lowering block already. If the concencus isn't to fit a spitfire spring (really didn't want the hassle), will get the alignment done & drive it when it's ready. Thanks again. Great forum as ever..!

Hi. Have mated a spitfire mk4 body onto a mk3 gt6 rotoflex rolling chassis, with a canley cv conversion. Thing is, it sits a bit high at the back, presumably due to the stiffer gt6 spring. Do I need a spitfire spring? And if so, is it a straight swap onto the uprights? Or take a leaf off the gt6 spring?Many thanks.

Sorted thanks...

In the process of rebuilding my 2.5 spitfire. Have literally turned the garage upside down, but can't find the clamp that secures the inner rod to the outer sleeve of the steering column. Anybody got one kicking around...? Thank you. Steve.

Many thanks. So an uprated gt6 starter sounds like next on my shopping list...! Not quite sure why we have twin threads though...

Hi Clive, thanks. The engine slotted in fine, with no clearance issues, so not sure if the sump is original. There are a couple of "adjustment" ripples on it, so maybe has been changed at some point... Good to know about the starter, thanks. Canleys list replacement brushes. Might give that a look first... Many thanks.

Right, here goes.... Swapped a scrapworthy body on my rotoflex gt6 for a mk4 spitfire one. Then found a bare 2500 engine, so that replaced the 2ltr gt6 lump. Used the 2ltr flywheel, starter & back plate, so as to fit the gt6 bellhousing. Thing is, not fitted the loom etc, & couldn't resist trying to start it. Put a wire from my other car's +ve to the coil, jump lead -ve connected, then jump lead +ve touched to the starter. Turned very slowly & quickly got hot. Engine did fire briefly, which is a bonus..! Anyway... Two questions... Bearing in mind that starter hadn't been powered for at least 8 years, had it become u/s? Also.. The 2500 starter from suppliers is totally different to mine. Remembering I've used the flywheel & plate from the gt6, would it fit..? Can't see any reason a gt6 starter wouldn't be man enough to turn the 2.5.. Any advice appreciated..! Steve.

Right, here goes.... Swapped a scrapworthy body on my rotoflex gt6 for a mk4 spitfire one. Then found a bare 2500 engine, so that replaced the 2ltr gt6 lump. Used the 2ltr flywheel, starter & back plate, so as to fit the gt6 bellhousing. Thing is, not fitted the loom etc, & couldn't resist trying to start it. Put a wire from my other car's +ve to the coil, jump lead -ve connected, then jump lead +ve touched to the started. Turned very slowly & quickly got hot. Engine did fire briefly, which is a bonus..! Anyway... Two questions... Bearing in mind that starter hadn't been powered for at least 8 years, had it become u/s? Also.. The 2500 starter from suppliers is totally different to mine. Remembering I've used the flywheel & plate from the gt6, would it fit..? Can't see any reason a gt6 starter wouldn't be man enough to turn the 2.5.. Any advice appreciated..! Steve.

Clive I have sent you a message. Many thanks..!

Can't see any sprint HS6's anywhere. However have seen some CD175's that came off a TR6. Would they be suitable..? Shouldn't be any clearance issues either..

That's really good, thank you people. Tom, I have the manifold for the SU's too, so will look into machining. Happy days..!

Just aquired a 2.5ltr bare engine, code MM. Will the CD150'S from my existing 2ltr be sufficient (obviously with needles), or the set of HS6's sitting in my shed? It's for a mk3 gt6 by the way. I know there are clearance issues, so can I just get short dashpots, springs & dampers..? Thanks.

This is exactly why clubs and forums are invaluable. Thank you...!

I've just applied dinitrol into my new sills, via the holes. Assumed I should block the holes with grommets after. Is this not the case...?

Watching Fast & Loud. He's not using an air fed mask whilst spraying. What paint do you think he's using...?

Wow...! Thank you very much... :-)

That's both good advice, thanks. Do regularly look at the welding forum. It has been really useful through the welding stage of my build. So could I get away with a 50ltr tank? Saves a little on money, which has already spiralled, as I'm sure everyone has experienced! (Hope the wife doesn't read this...!!) Also, what nozzle sizes are best for high build primer, & paint? Probably going to use cellulose, as the danger aspect of 2k at home concerns me. Thanks again. Steve.

Looking at spraying my spitfire this summer. I appreciate that the best way is to have it done professionally, but budget & have a go attitude is winning. Tying myself up in knots though. Which is better.. HVLP or LVLP spray guns (& why.?) . Also, would a 3hp 100ltr compressor be up to the job? Many thanks.

Hey that's great John. Thanks. The gt6 spring certainly is stiffer. Have already fitted a 3/4" spacer, so should sit well when I put the body back on. Thanks again.

Sounds like the best plan. Thanks..!

Hey thanks Clive. The chassis/suspension/running gear is all restored & built. I also have fitted a 3/4" lowering block on the back, with 1" lowered springs at the front, so sounds like things will go nicely. Was just wondering if the gt6 spring wouldn't settle enough without the extra weight of the gt6 body on it, but you've answered that perfectly! Thanks.

Getting near the stage of mating my restored spitfire body tub to a gt6 rotoflex chassis (cv converted). Am I going to have issues with the rear sitting too high due to a stiffer gt6 spring? Or would a spitfire spring locate in the rotoflex hub carriers? Rather solve the issue with an exposed chassis, rather than change things with the body on. Thanks.

Thanks John. That's what I'm thinking. Looking closely at pictures of other cars, the gap at the point of the striker plate is even all round. I'm never going to get that with the door on the latch. The other possible variable is that I think my doors have been re skinned at some point. I may even be battling with odd profiled doors...! Got a garage day tomorrow, so back to the start again... Thanks again.

Really struggling to get consistent door gaps, before I take the plunge & attack the sills on my spitfire mk4. Using the adjustable brace from the club shop to set the gaps, but should I be doing it with the door in the latch? That leaves me with approx 3mm at the top of the door edge, getting tighter at the bottom edge, with a big gap at the front edge. I can get it pretty even all round if I don't have it latched. Do people set the gap, then shim the catch plate to suit? Many thanks.

What condition is the body tub...? The more bodges I uncover with repairing mine, makes me wonder if it's worth cutting my losses. Where are you...?