richhl

Many thanks Josef, if needed I will remove the gearbox, but in principle it's just the inside face that needs welding Here is the other side which had a lot less rot

I am looking for some help and hopefully repair sections for repairing the A post area from the inside of the car as the sills are as new both outer inner and stiffener. The rusted area is on the lower A post inner part where the Upper A post column meets and is welded to it - with a nice V shaped water trap between the two parts. To cut out the rusted parts of the lower A post (also forms the inside wall of the front of the sill) I have had to cut and remove part of the Upper A post column on both sides (along with drilling out several spotwelds). See photos.. To repair the rusted area I need to remove more of the A post column so, - Is there a repair section for the upper column area? I have not been able to find one. It would save a lot of time.. - The rusted part I will make the repair piece myself. - Has anyone had this issue and tackled from the inside? Thanks in advance Richard.

Just had an (too) exciting Sunday afternoon - on starting up my 2L Mk3 Spit (GT6 Mk2 conv) I had the oil filter get blown off (spin on adapter type).. Newly replaced oil everywhere, fortunately had tray under the car that caught most of it. Unfortunately I didn't do the usual and assure pressure turning over first as I usually do, engine ran for probably 2 mins before I stopped it. My bad, I thought pressure gauge issue and I wasn't watching the oild light as I have the speedo out... Didn't get to pump out all the oil, about half, and no load running so now not sure of possible bearings damage.... On inspection I had a wrong filter (or badly manufactured).. although had used this type previously, this is a Mann W 71328, I have now successfully fitted a WIX WL7074. The inner diameter of the thread on the WIX filter is at least 1mm smaller (tighter overlap) than the MANN filter which explains it. When I refitted the MANN filter and over tightened it I was able to get the threads to jump. Anyway, with the new filter have had the engine up to temp with no apparent side effects or noises so far, oil pressure good as before (60 - 80 psi). Any thoughts on whether I should drop the sump and have a look??? Your thoughts and inputs welcome.. from now on I will check the filter internal dia before fitting.. Cheers, Richard. The BAD filter: The good filter: The oil spill:

Similar, but shorter I think and with square flange. I've had a look inside mine and its really tight, doesn't have the angular movement needed either so it needs replacement. here's the good asembly..

Any photo(s) of the relevant page(s) of Spit 1500 propshaft (sealed joint with gaiter) from workshop manual would also be really helpful to see what the design before I strip back..

Hi, I'm in the middle of trying to fit Canley Classics CV driveshafts, one side has gone really well after the iterative spacer/shims process, but 2nd side has a really tight spline and I seem to have separated the shaft (tapping to get the shaft spline in the hub sufficiently to get the nut on) from the joint as I now have around 5mm axial play of the shaft in the CV. I think I've dislodged the circlip that holds the shaft into the CV innner race. I think I now need to drive the shaft out to be able to fit the circlip again.. I would really appreciate any insights from either a 1300 / 1500 FWD owner or someone who has rebuilt or had similar issues with the CC driveshafts. The other problem with this driveshaft is that the sliding inner joint (from 1500 spitfire prop I understand) is very stiff - and I my need to dismatle this to see what is up. So anyone with experience of this joint on some of the spit 1500 props who can comment also appreciated. These are new (but bought a while back) but I never checked properly them, till fitting now.. lesson there. I'll be talking to Dave Pearson on Monday, but I'm trying to salvage today as the car has a deadline before going to get wheels aligned etc. Thanks in advance, Richard.

Hi, I'm rebuiding my rotoflex rear suspension and before I put it all together I would appreciate thoughts on upgrading the wheel studs. Freelander studs are in many forums as an upgrade option, not sure if this is worthwhile. Jon Wolfe also offers a kit with nuts which looks like the same thing. Also where would be the best place to buy genuine new studs, as I will replace anyway. Again your experience and advice appreciated, Cheers, Richard.

Hi, I'd appreciate any photos and/or information on the routing and clips for the fuel line for a Mk2 GT6 (from fuel pump to tank) - Replacing mine, and I have realised I should have taken clearer photos - also this is not covered in the official or other workshop manuals. Thanks in advance, Richard.

What happened to the fill tube that used to be supplied with gear oil - clipped on under the cap?? Last time I bought some (20years ago at least..) these were standard!! Does anyone sell bottles with this anymore?

I'd appreciate latest thinking and advice / recommendations for engine oil; Many thanks -

I'd appreciate latest thinking and advice / recommendations for oil for the differential (also gearbox / overdrive). Many thanks -

This union on my car is the other way round.. As you can see I don't have the flexible hose on, but the position relative to the suspension location looks similar to the mounting on the other side. I think this might be the trick.

25Kg (with oil!) - Just put one on the bathroom scales

Thanks very much Clive;

Hi, As part of my Spit6 (MK2 rotoflex rear suspension) rebuild I'm looking for the following 3 parts NOS if possible: 148976: “bracket assembly, mounting, radius arm to vertical link – LH” 149051: “rear hub and stud assembly” 214817: “back plate assembly, RH” I have the opposite hand of each of these, and one hub, so would be great to be able to make up the sets.. For the bracket assembly I'd be happy with a good secondhand original one (with the brake hose location features). Many thanks, Richard.