Philbry

Final update. Just in case others want to do this. I. swapped out the innards of my older Speedo and replaced it with the newer one with the 1152 tpm setting. I managed to move the mileage wheels gently to adjust the distance to match the original one by pulling the individual wheels away from the adjacent ones without dismantling it which was a bit of a result. I fitted the old dial and pointer (which actually seems to be a heavier mass than the newer one) so I was wondering if that would affect the damper spring behaviour. Anyhow having reassembled it and taken it for a drive it seems to be pretty close to the right speed reading slightly over by 5-10% compared to my phone GPS and the pointer is pretty stable. The references earlier to marking the wheel at the rear to the case are worth keeping in mind if you do this. The other thing that seemed to help is that the pointer without tension seemed to point to a small dot (mark) on the dial at around -5 mph. If you pull the wire stop behind the dial face whilst you set it up, you can get the pointer to move to this. Anyway thanks for all the comments/advice.

Update: I ended up purchasing a UrevCo conversion kit from Marco Testa in Italy. He was extremely responsive giving me a price for shipping to the UK within a few hours and sent the unit straight away. I had it within 2 days! In terms of the conversion it was a bit fiddly in parts but the instructions were very good and I now have it fitted and working. The circuit board and motor are well made and it looks like a good quality bit of kit. Definitely worth considering if you need or want to convert to electronic.

Update - I managed to get hold of a different speedo with 1152 tpm on the dial although it's a newer one than mine so has a different font and needle. But having tested it, it's close to being spot on when compared to the GPS on my phone and the trip distance was also accurate too. So I guess I must have a stock diff and O\D. Just need to see if there's any way to swap the face needle without messing up the calibration.

So the latest on this is that I think I set up the choke wrong. I set the fast idle screw without the spacer behind the cam which I guess meant that the choke was opening the throttle very wide for starting. Whilst I haven't managed to get the choke set up properly yet (as I don't have a working tacho) I've not had a recurrence of the flooding since. Thanks for all the advice.

Not sure what O/D I have, but when I was on the motorway today doing 60, the speedo was around to 75-80 I saw a Mk3 at Leatherhead with O/D and the TPM on that speedo was 1152 which makes more sense than 980. I accept some difference in tolerance but over 20% is a bit much. I guess I'll have to get it calibrated as finding another one will be almost impossible. Thanks for the feedback everyone.

Thanks for all the recommendations so far. I ultrasonically cleaned the float valves. Everything else looks good. Put it all back together and having primed the float bowls with petrol it started first time. I ran it for a minute at most and then turned it off. No sign of petrol. Having put the air filters back on, I tried to restart it. Choke and no choke it didn't want to start. Having turned it over a good few times I got petrol dropping out of the air filters. I pulled off the filters and there was petrol on the inlet on both carbs. Looks like the fuel was coming from the float chamber breather. I dried it off, left it for about 10 mins and then retried to start it with no choke but some throttle and after a couple of turns it started. Sorry for the long winded explanation. Am I just seeing the evidence of flooding or something else?

I've recently bought a Mk3 with overdrive and noticed using my phone GPS that the speedo is significantly over reading. When I'm doing 32/33 on the GPS, the speedo shows 40. Unfortunately because the previous owner fitted a 123 dizzy I currently don't have a tacho so I can't tell you the rpm in a particular gear to check that tallies. The distance shown on the trip also seems to be out by the same proportion. The TPI on the dial is 980. I'm guessing the car has had overdrive added at some point and the original speedo left in? What's the right TPI number for a Mk3 with overdrive? Is my best option to get the speedo recalibrated? Thanks.

Thanks all - looks like a few good choices. I'll update this post once I've made the change and let others know my experience.

Hi, I've recently bought a GT6 Mk3 which has 123 distributor fitted and wondering what options there are on an electronic tacho to go with it as there is no mechanical drive. I've seen a few conversion solutions on the web as I want to retain the indicator/rear demise lights in the lower part of the dial face. Has anyone got experience of this modification and can suggest what might suit best? Thanks!

Thanks for the advice. Will take a look at the needle valves and let you know what I find. There is a fuel filter just in front of the carb tee, but both feeds to the carbs are rubber :-(

Hi. I've just recently got a GT6. It seems to start reasonably well on most occasions from cold. But I have found on one or two starts that it doesn't get going. I probably turn over the engine in 3-4 second bursts with no luck. After 3 or 4 goes with 10-20 seconds in between there's petrol pouring out of the air filters. Is this likely to be the floats and petrol shut off not working properly? The other thing I've noted is that the petrol feed goes over the top of the rocker cover so there's a downhill route into the carbs. Just wondering if that's causing some sort of capiliary action. Any advice greatly received.