gollane

It's okay Bresco list them now.

Thanks very much Chris, a great help, could you let know the length under the floor. Thanks again

Does anyone know of a source for the 2 ball studs which secure the spare wheel floor. All the online sites aren't helpful with dimensions,making it tricky to know what to go for . Or can anyone supply the sizes so I can get some turned up.?

Google Livedale foam in Wigan, I use them for my business .they can supply cut to size foam in any thickness you want. If it's for your seat base I would suggest the firm white grade maybe 1 - 1.5 inches or so thick.

Thanks again sounds like a promising route to pursue,it will be a winter job but will report back in due course. Cheers Brett

Thanks chaps, yet another job to add to the list.

Thanks Colin the oil level is correct ,I checked it when I filled the diff, it is the solenoid that comes and goes ,as I said it doesn't click when hot but does as it cools, I'm wondering about wiring with the gearstick as there seems to be a possible issue with the amount of movement .

My 3 year-old solenoid stops throwing when hot but 30 minutes after driving clicks away happily in the garage. Is this heat related or a coincidence? Particularly annoying as I've just taken the car off axle stands after a diff change .

I concur with richhl,25kg.heavy old lump to fit even with the trolley jack. If you going to fit one check the width of the rear support brackets, mine had been marginally crushed making it an in, out and back in after easing the brackets a little.

Thanks Pete, that's what I thought ,just wondering if they should be tighter as there is a witness of wear marks on the two front studs.

Despite searching I cannot find a torque setting for the four nuts securing the spring to the diff ,anybody know the definitive setting?

Thanks for that, I was thinking about a sack of coal.

I'll soon need to send my diff in px for a rebuilt one, all carriers want to know the weight. Anybody know?

Thanks ,I know my plan of action now,as you say nothing fits anyway.I just want to get my doors aligned. Cheers Brett

Thanks Pete, you mentioning nuts gives me an idea, if I can't find the plates I'll take out the existing and weld nuts onto them. A bit of a pain but it would work. Cheers

Does anyone know of a source for the captive plates in the door and behind the A post that the hinge bolts go into. Mine have previously been drilled and tapped over size but are not really capable of taking the correct torque setting and the door drops after a while.

I'm with Gully on this one,replacement pumps especially from Rimmers put out way too much pressure,if you decide to buy one strip it and put in your old spring .I did this and now it works just fine

Could this be the same Ian who was an ace Manx Grand Prix motorcycle racer.on Ducati's ,if my memory serves me correctly

Thanks a million

Thank you Richard ,I will look into this with great interest. I don't know if my tank is original but the outlet is dead level with the bottom of the tank,I'm wondering about blocking this with any potential sealant, Brett

Thanks Doug,I guess a bit of tube with a dab of silicone in the end,well with separate gauges I used to balance them individually until they all read the same,time consuming but that was for 4 carbs the benefits were very noticeable, When you refer to my set up is that for the gauges or the whole motor ? The engine is to full Triumphtune stage 2 spec with HIF6 carbs and used to run beautifully but it has been unused for far to long hence my other post about fuel tank sludge. I really thought I had cracked that problem but just today I had to be towed home with another flake of rust blocking the tank outlet,very ,very frustrating.. I now understand how you use 1 gauge to balance your carbs,thanks for your input. Brett

I had a similar problem with my GT6 with HIF6 carbs ,I cured mine by getting the float height absolutely correct,amazing the difference 25 thou makes to the available mixture adjustment .

Hi Doug,are we talking at cross purposes here ,I don't want a dash mounted vacuum gauge ,to control my right foot ,but to synchronise my carbs in order to get the best from my rather expensive stage 2 Triumph tune engine. BTW with your gauge do you have to do each carb separately and note the readings ? sounds a bit of a faff but a cost effective answer.

Why Ha Ha ,I already have gauges from my motorcycle racing days and always got the best results by having a gauge per carburettor,thanks for the link but the comment said there was too much fluctuation to be of much use.