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Dave pb

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Dave pb last won the day on June 22 2018

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About Dave pb

  • Birthday 02/04/1953

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    Isle of Man
  • Cars Owned
    my cars herald 1360, gt6 mk3, tr4a irs, golf, books, diy

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Expert (4/13)



  1. Thank you all. I think I will invest in a new one. Not much else to spend money on at the moment, bring back holidays I say. Cheers Dave
  2. Hello. I have a strap-drive propshaft at present. There has always been a lot of vibration, and much worse recently. I am planning to replace it with a sliding spine type from Dave Mac, after reading various old posts on this forum. So, a question:- is it just a straight swap or is the late 13/60 peculiar in some way? Rimmers shows shafts that are "not for late 13/60s". Cheers Dave
  3. Thanks Chris, I'll try that. I like the look of your go-faster stripe. I was only thinking about doing that just the other day.
  4. Hi A heat shield is also on my list of things to try, thanks Richard. I guess you meant "not" instead of "mote", Pete. Not sure about that, I have read of a lot of problems with our cars and vaporisation. Anyway, obviously I am prepared to consider and try everything. Carb setting is worth a go. Rubber tube worth a look at, although surely that would be a problem either hot or cold starting/running. Something else to do in lockdown. Cheers Dave ===
  5. Hello. I have a long-standing fuel vaporisation problem. Car won't start once its hot, and have to leave it for an hour or so to cool down, then all is fine again. At the end of a long run - say 2 or 3 hours, then the car is running very intermittently - feels like the fuel is only arriving in small lumpy bits, and I have to keep the accelerator hard down to keep the engine running. Over time I have replaced the fuel pump, installed a fuel filter, insulated the metal pipe around the engine with shiny stuff, fitted electronic ignition - all really to no avail. As a next step I was going to re-route the metal pipe and maybe replace it with a rubber hose. I have read elsewhere that testing has revealed that actually the vaporisation occurs in the manifold (heated of course by the engine block), and thus all these other measures are a waste of time, although I suppose if you can keep the fuel as cool as possible before it reaches the manifold it might help. So, does anyone have any other ideas, and is there a preferred route for the fuel pipe in the engine bay? Cheers Dave
  6. In the end I disconnected the prop shaft, disconnected the exhaust from the gearbox bracket, and put a thick wood plank under the gearbox. Got the wife to push down on it. Voila! Bobbins in under a minute. Thanks for your all your help. I did find that the prop shaft bolts and nuts were actually quite loose, either they worked themselves loose over the last 15 years, or I didn't do them up tightly in the first place. Bit worrying. I fitted a new gearbox tunnel - a plastic one - which was a great fit on the passenger side but not so good on the driver bulkhead. Anyway with a bit of fettling its in - I lined it with some sound-deadening material - rubbery mastic on one side and shiny on the other. Supposed to give sound and heat insulation. I've used it before and it works well. Carpets back in, and all looking very smart. I do have a long-standing fuel vaporisation problem. I'll post a follow-up question in the appropriate place. Thanks Dave
  7. Hi Pete and Steve Yep I have the tunnel out as I am replacing it, and noticed the bobbins are basically fading away - seem to be dissolving in the oil they are coated with (and they are only about 17 years old!). I found some new ones on my shelf of bits. I wanted to lift the box a bit, so that the bobbins would clear the bracket, but wasn't sure if it would move enough, and without disconnecting the prop shaft. Give it a try I guess.
  8. Hello. Is it possible to change the bobbins without taking the extension off? Cheers Dave ====
  9. All makes sense. from an aesthetic point of view I would like it to point to midway, I think I will try a different thermostat and see what happens . thanks Dave ====
  10. Hi Nigel It could be faulty, and I could try another. Your gauge seems to have the same "normal" as mine by the sound of it. Perhaps that is "Normal"? Dave
  11. Hello The temp gauge has always read at the same place between Cold and Normal for the last 15 years, except once when it really overheated in a queue on the M6 and went up to Hot, so it definitely works. It would be nice if it read Normal when it is normal. Likely fix? New thermostat? New sensor? Any suggestions? Cheers Dave ===
  12. Its back in and a few miles down the road it all seems to be working ok. Must have been a bit of dirt or something in a cog tooth. A few little bits and pieces left to do, mainly cosmetic, and its ready for its winter hibernation. and possible sale next spring. Thanks for everybody's help, until the next time. Dave ===
  13. Drill testing showed everything working ok without sticking. Did a couple of miles with the drill, and it went through what was the normal sticking point. Nothing left to do except to put it back and have another test drive. (when the torrential rain stops). I might have another drill test first though.
  14. It's out, much easier this time. Checked all the cogs I could see, moved them by hand easy enough no sticking or excessive resistance, a tiny bit of light oil applied, no missing teeth, need to try with a drill.
  15. I took it apart cleaned it, oiled it, replaced the voltage stabiliser, put in two multiway connectors - one for the stabiliser and one for all the speedo bulbs. Put the speedo back using the tips above. And all the bulbs and gauges worked, but the trip/odometer still got stuck in the same place! Annoying or what!!! so it will have to come out again - be somewhat easier this time as I now know what I am doing. But it will have to wait a few days as the Ryder Cup will be commanding my attention until at least Tuesday. Dave ====
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