Dave pb

Thanks everyone. I think I'll start with the cornflakes washer, and a bit of wet and dry. Rooting around yesterday I found a a suspect hose junction - not conclusive but currently in the line-up of culprits. Dave ====

Hello I have a coolant problem in that the overflow bottle is getting filled up, but is not returning once the engine cool down. I'm guessing first stop is the radiator cap (its been on since I bought the car 16 years ago), perhaps the seal is leaking. Any other ideas? Dave ====

Hi I have been fortunate enough to get a new Herald chassis, unused. Its a few years old, and the odd bit of rust has appeared on the outside, and doubtless quite a bit more on the inside. I'm looking for advice on how best to treat it, before I rebuild my Herald onto it. How to best coat the inside, and what with? I was going to kurust (or similar) the outside bits, and paint it and waxoyl it, or are there better, newer things to do? Regards Dave ====

I can't see anywhere that these trunnionless kits are available for Heralds. Are they? Is it that different from a Vitesse? As an aside I fitted them about 15 years ago to my GT6. No issues since. Dave

For future reference, the best info I could get was that a bare spitfire chassis was 47Kg. Not sure if this was with or without turrets. My best estimate of a bare herald chassis is thus about 60kg. Turns out that the shipping issue is not the weight but the length of it. Thanks for all your help. Dave

That's great thank you, certainly gives me the roof bar option. Dave ----

Thanks. I need to transport one and various carriers need to know how much it weighs. Less than 100Kgs? Dave ====

Hello Does anyone know how much a bare chassis weighs? Thanks Dave

I bought a spline propshaft from Dave Mac. Fitted it today. The old one dropped out nicely, and the new went straight in. A moment of panic when the stud holes at the diff end didn't line up, and I thought "the strap one has different holes!". Then a bit of calm took over, a 90 degree rotation and all was good. Test-drive showed all the vibration I had suffered for years has gone. Fabulous. But now I can hear all the other noises instead, which i need to track down. Thanks for all your advice. One original strap-drive now available............. Dave ===

Thank you all. I think I will invest in a new one. Not much else to spend money on at the moment, bring back holidays I say. Cheers Dave

Hello. I have a strap-drive propshaft at present. There has always been a lot of vibration, and much worse recently. I am planning to replace it with a sliding spine type from Dave Mac, after reading various old posts on this forum. So, a question:- is it just a straight swap or is the late 13/60 peculiar in some way? Rimmers shows shafts that are "not for late 13/60s". Cheers Dave

Thanks Chris, I'll try that. I like the look of your go-faster stripe. I was only thinking about doing that just the other day.

Hi A heat shield is also on my list of things to try, thanks Richard. I guess you meant "not" instead of "mote", Pete. Not sure about that, I have read of a lot of problems with our cars and vaporisation. Anyway, obviously I am prepared to consider and try everything. Carb setting is worth a go. Rubber tube worth a look at, although surely that would be a problem either hot or cold starting/running. Something else to do in lockdown. Cheers Dave ===

Hello. I have a long-standing fuel vaporisation problem. Car won't start once its hot, and have to leave it for an hour or so to cool down, then all is fine again. At the end of a long run - say 2 or 3 hours, then the car is running very intermittently - feels like the fuel is only arriving in small lumpy bits, and I have to keep the accelerator hard down to keep the engine running. Over time I have replaced the fuel pump, installed a fuel filter, insulated the metal pipe around the engine with shiny stuff, fitted electronic ignition - all really to no avail. As a next step I was going to re-route the metal pipe and maybe replace it with a rubber hose. I have read elsewhere that testing has revealed that actually the vaporisation occurs in the manifold (heated of course by the engine block), and thus all these other measures are a waste of time, although I suppose if you can keep the fuel as cool as possible before it reaches the manifold it might help. So, does anyone have any other ideas, and is there a preferred route for the fuel pipe in the engine bay? Cheers Dave

In the end I disconnected the prop shaft, disconnected the exhaust from the gearbox bracket, and put a thick wood plank under the gearbox. Got the wife to push down on it. Voila! Bobbins in under a minute. Thanks for your all your help. I did find that the prop shaft bolts and nuts were actually quite loose, either they worked themselves loose over the last 15 years, or I didn't do them up tightly in the first place. Bit worrying. I fitted a new gearbox tunnel - a plastic one - which was a great fit on the passenger side but not so good on the driver bulkhead. Anyway with a bit of fettling its in - I lined it with some sound-deadening material - rubbery mastic on one side and shiny on the other. Supposed to give sound and heat insulation. I've used it before and it works well. Carpets back in, and all looking very smart. I do have a long-standing fuel vaporisation problem. I'll post a follow-up question in the appropriate place. Thanks Dave

Hi Pete and Steve Yep I have the tunnel out as I am replacing it, and noticed the bobbins are basically fading away - seem to be dissolving in the oil they are coated with (and they are only about 17 years old!). I found some new ones on my shelf of bits. I wanted to lift the box a bit, so that the bobbins would clear the bracket, but wasn't sure if it would move enough, and without disconnecting the prop shaft. Give it a try I guess.

Hello. Is it possible to change the bobbins without taking the extension off? Cheers Dave ====

All makes sense. from an aesthetic point of view I would like it to point to midway, I think I will try a different thermostat and see what happens . thanks Dave ====

Hi Nigel It could be faulty, and I could try another. Your gauge seems to have the same "normal" as mine by the sound of it. Perhaps that is "Normal"? Dave

Hello The temp gauge has always read at the same place between Cold and Normal for the last 15 years, except once when it really overheated in a queue on the M6 and went up to Hot, so it definitely works. It would be nice if it read Normal when it is normal. Likely fix? New thermostat? New sensor? Any suggestions? Cheers Dave ===

Its back in and a few miles down the road it all seems to be working ok. Must have been a bit of dirt or something in a cog tooth. A few little bits and pieces left to do, mainly cosmetic, and its ready for its winter hibernation. and possible sale next spring. Thanks for everybody's help, until the next time. Dave ===

Drill testing showed everything working ok without sticking. Did a couple of miles with the drill, and it went through what was the normal sticking point. Nothing left to do except to put it back and have another test drive. (when the torrential rain stops). I might have another drill test first though.

It's out, much easier this time. Checked all the cogs I could see, moved them by hand easy enough no sticking or excessive resistance, a tiny bit of light oil applied, no missing teeth, need to try with a drill.

I took it apart cleaned it, oiled it, replaced the voltage stabiliser, put in two multiway connectors - one for the stabiliser and one for all the speedo bulbs. Put the speedo back using the tips above. And all the bulbs and gauges worked, but the trip/odometer still got stuck in the same place! Annoying or what!!! so it will have to come out again - be somewhat easier this time as I now know what I am doing. But it will have to wait a few days as the Ryder Cup will be commanding my attention until at least Tuesday. Dave ====

Couple of things. Bezel and glass off - stuck together, Had to undo the tabs as not recommended Colin, but they were on tight and corroded a bit. Anyway, its off. Had a fiddle with the trip/mile reels, a tiny bit of light oil, seem to be working ok. Reassembled with the tabs pushed back.Luckily I happen to have a new rubber ring on a replacement speedo I had for another car, but never used. Now looking at the wiring as suggested by John.... and I can count 10 wires, plus another 3 in the left hand pic. Is that right? 13? The three white looking ones are part of the deal aren't they? Anyway, I've decided to do mine, should make reassembly a doddle. I'll post a pic when done. Dave ===