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Adrian Cooper

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Everything posted by Adrian Cooper

  1. Well said! Thank you for flagging this book John which is the result of a brilliant idea. My wife, who is a portrait painter, took part in this scheme and she painted two local heroes. She found the tasks very difficult as she had to work from the photographs that the individuals supplied rather than having the subjects 'sit' for her in her studio (for obvious reasons) but she was delighted to be involved and very rewarded by the response of the appreciative subjects. Adrian
  2. Is there life after 75? Most certainly if you take care of yourself, and better still if you keep your brain sharp with some challenging mental activity (like shepherding a host of grateful Triumph nuts on this forum) Many happy returns Pete. Adrian
  3. Good evening Peter, My hardtop is suspended from my garage rafters and I'm sure it weighs less than 125lbs as I can carry and fit it to the car on my own. Adrian
  4. Welcome Pablo, What a gorgeous car! One thing to check is the age of the tyres. The advice is to change them if they are more than 7 years old, regardless of tread depth, condition etc (the date of manufacture is marked on the tyre) Beyond 7 years the rubber tends to harden and grip is significantly reduced, and the fact that the car has sat in one position between one MOT and the next could have created 'flat spots' that may cause a vibration when you are driving. If it were my car I would change the brake seals, fluid and flexible hoses too. I agree with the opinions of my learned colleagues about unleaded fuel and I've had no problems with my original head in more than 40,000 miles of spirited driving. Use it and enjoy it! Adrian
  5. Hello Roger, I replaced the original fusebox with 2x 12 way modern blade fuse boxes and put relays on everything; it took me weeks. I'm very glad I did it but if I were doing it again I would use something like this, where all the hard work is already done for you https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/cbs-12-circuit-wiring-module. Adrian
  6. Gully, can you say more about your sticking pushrod theory? You may just have found the explanation to the mystery noise that has had me baffled for nearly 20 years! Adrian
  7. Welcome to the Forum Hugh. I presume that you have spotted these Ebay sun visor bits? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Assortment-of-Sun-Visor-Brackets-for-1960s-Triumphs-Spitfire-MkI-II-TR4/303695458731?hash=item46b5a8f1ab:g:EKgAAOSwcgdfZIrQ Adrian
  8. Hi Lance, I had this problem and I sorted it myself by fitting a smaller diameter copper pipe inside the perforated pipe. I did this more than 30 years ago and I'm afraid I can't remember the pipe dimension but it probably was 15mm. I thought about using a heat transfer compound (the sort of stuff used between computer processors and heat sinks) but it was a very tight fit and it didn't seem necessary. It's been fine ever since. Adrian
  9. Interesting thread direction and the take-away idea is that, even at the advanced age of most of us, there is always room for further training or some sort of refresher. I agree with John D about the Roadcraft book and I read it and 'Very advanced Driving' by Tom Topper when I first passed my test in the early 80s. Based on reading those I thought that I was the best driver on the road and booked an IAM test. The examiner very politely told me that I needed more experience before I stood any chance of passing; I was so insulted that I never took the test again. When I left College with my shiny Fine Art Degree I soon discovered that it was useless for getting a job and so I trained to be a bus driver. That was when I discovered exactly how little I knew about driving safely and I credit my PSV instructor for my 40 years of accident free motoring, him and a vast amount of good luck too. I don't know what you think of the current standard of PCV training and driving Dave, but I expect you'll agree that the rigour of the old PSV test can't be anything like the same. Like me I guess that you took your test on a vintage double decker with a crash gearbox and no power steering? all these years later I still double declutch as a matter of habit even though I only spent 3 years on the buses before going into teaching. Maybe it's time I tried the IAM again, but I'll need some refresher training first I fear. Adrian KK71363
  10. That is a really lovely example of a MK2 with everything original and just like it came from the factory. I'm really glad that it exists and that somebody has spent so much effort to make such a perfect example, but I wouldn't buy it, or even want to own it and I can't imagine why anybody would. I'll explain myself by relating how I spent today. I got up early and was on the road to Brands Hatch, in my Mk 2 Spitfire, before 8am for a day of watching mixed club racing. From Eastbourne that's a drive of about 90 minutes and I really enjoyed keeping up with the pace of the moderns on the A and B roads and the M25 too. I keep to the speed limits but I drive it in the way it was intended to be driven. Today was perfect top-down weather but I would have taken the Spitfire even if it had been raining. And this is my point; mechanically, my car is how I want it to be. I have cut out all the rust and replaced anything suspect with strong repairs. It has modern electrics. However, my comedy respray could be used as a teaching aid for all the possible faults that you can get with poor spray technique and that stops me getting too precious about the car. It will never be perfect and I have made too many modifications for it to be an 'example of the breed' and so it isn't an investment either. It's my daily transport and I really enjoy driving it. I'm sure that I wouldn't be happy driving this perfect Spitfire as I would always be feeling that every mile makes it less perfect without hours of cleaning and touching-up every week and it could only be a "garage queen'. Some people might see it as an investment and I'm sure that values will continue to rise for a few years but what happens when petrol becomes less widely available? How long do we think that we have left of the current availability? 10 years? less? Perhaps it could be converted to electric but that would rob it of all its charm for me, and so it isn't really a sound investment either. So, not only wouldn't I swap my shabby looking Mk2 for this one I can honestly say that I wouldn't want it at any price. It isn't a sports car it's a museum piece and the responsibility of ownership is too great. Adrian
  11. The conventional wisdom, started by the great John Kipping and found to be true by many others, is that differentials don't knock or vibrate. The diff on my Spitfire has quite a few degrees of rotation before making the half-shafts move too and it is still very quiet in operation. You can't really tell how worn the UJs are until you have unbolted them and removed the spring loading. I really would urge you to change the joints before spending huge amounts on a reconditioned diff, especially as you have the new UJs already. You'll find all the encouragement and moral support you could wish for on here. Adrian
  12. Crikey! That pump top has broken off! Did that happen on the car, whilst driving? That's a new low in crap replacement parts. Horrified. Adrian
  13. And excellent stuff it is too, thoroughly recommended. Adrian
  14. In the same way that the French, Italians, Spanish etc do; probably from the Latin 'Milia' meaning Thousand. Although the exact route is one for your legendary Googling skills John. Adrian
  15. Good morning Colin, This problem with replacement fuel pumps providing too much pressure is not new. I bought a new pump from John Kipping, just before a drive to Paris with the lady who is now my wife, so that must have been more than 20 years ago, and it made my carburettors flood. I bought another pump from Moss (or TRGB, I can't remember) and it was even worse. The solution was to fit a Malpassi Filter King pressure regulator and filter combined. It solved the problem and it is still on my car all these years later. Demon Tweeks has them on special offer at the moment https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/malpassi-filter-king-fuel-pressure-regulator-and-filter-243259/ but they may be even cheaper on ebay. Rob's advice on fitting the pump is spot-on and it is actually quite hard to get the lever on the wrong side of the cam. Good luck Adrian
  16. What's to stop us organising our own guerilla raffle? A sort of 'not the No Raffle' raffle. Adrian
  17. Good grief Doug! Just how dirty do you anticipate getting? and doing what? Adrian
  18. Perfectly put Colin, Pete, I'm sure that this current upheaval and the frustration and disappointment over the TR4 saga have been hugely stressful for you, but when you are sitting on the deck of your boat, beer in hand and enjoying the setting son in some Mediterranean harbour......... Adrian
  19. This is a great idea Paul, please include it in the write-up. Just thinking about what could have caused this in the first place (nothing to do with the filter, I'm sure). The oil has obviously drained out of the pump and I wonder if leaving the old filter in place until all the oil has drained from the sump might stop the outflowing oil from sucking air into the pump from the open filter mounting? Probably total nonsense but I can't think of any other reason for this situation. Anyway, next oil change I will drain the sump before changing the filter and use Pauls modified filter to apply Poppyman's backfilling solution and keep all my fingers crossed. Love a happy ending! Adrian
  20. Good morning Ian, I chose a different approach as I wanted to use a switch that matched the fan switch on my Spitfire. I ran a fused, permanently live supply to a new 4x21w flasher unit and connected the output via the switch to the Green/white & Green/Red wires at the base of the steering column to feed the 4 indicators plus a tell tale light next to the switch. There have to be diodes between these connections and the wires that run back to the column indicator switch and another diode between the original flasher and the column switch, Light Green/Brown wire (otherwise power would run back to the ignition circuit if the indicator switch was on whilst the hazard lights were running. Does that make sense? I've attached a diagram I found online but it doesn't show the third diode in the flasher supply which I think is essential. Really simple and cheap. Adrian
  21. Another vote of confidence for the Mann filters from me. I use the 714/2 without any problems and oil pressure comes up in about 3 seconds. And a thumbs up for Poppyman's suggestion of how to prime the pump from above down the filter hole, I presume that is via the holes around the circumference and not the big hole in the middle? Adrian
  22. We had a similar experience on here. Pete started a thread asking for suggestions for parts that were unobtainable and which could be 3D printed and not much came of it. The idea came from a general dissatisfaction with the fact that you had to buy a complete door handle assembly for a Mk4/1500Spitfire-Mk3GT6 when it was just the plastic control rod that caused the failure. My son Louis copied the design of the rod and printed a couple of versions in different materials as a 'proof of concept' and Doug and Barry kindly fitted them in their cars and tested them to destruction. Having proved that the design was dimensionally accurate, my son uploaded the file to an online printing service where people can have it printed in stainless steel. To date, more than 40 people have (including our Barry I think) and there have been no reported failures. So the process does work. I would suggest that the dedicated online printing services are the way to go rather than the club getting involved in any part of the manufacture as this is all they do and they do it really well. Before lockdown my son was just about to start helping out in the 3D printing workshop at the Advanced Engineering department of Brighton University as their facilities were not even as good as he has at home (all home-made or hugely modified) John starting this thread is very timely as Louis has just finished 3D modelling the unobtainable hardtop mounting brackets for the early Spitfires and they illustrate the situation very clearly. They are dimensionally accurate but were extremely complicated to model from scratch and the task took Louis more than 10 hours before he was happy. This will always remain the problem, even with 3D scanning technology progressing so quickly, you will always need someone who really knows what they are doing to create or fettle the 3D file and make sure that it is fit for purpose. Here is a picture of a low resolution test print of the mounting bracket next to the real thing. When these are printed in stainless steel at full resolution they will be as good or better than the original part.
  23. The first thing to do is check that you have a live unswitched supply to the column stalk. There is a purple wire that supplies the flash circuit and it joins the other blue/white and blue/red wires at the base of the steering column to run up to the stalk. The purple wire may have worked loose from the bullet joint at this point or it may have broken between there and the fusebox but a quick test with a bulb or a multimeter will tell you if this wire is the problem. If you have a working supply then the flash contact in the stalk may need cleaning. If you unscrew the cowls you should be able to see the contacts without too much contortion. The contacts can burn but I would bet that it is simply a loose connection further down the steering column. Good luck Adrian
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