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Adrian Cooper

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Everything posted by Adrian Cooper

  1. I bought a pair from James Paddock 3 years ago and they are slightly pitted with rust already. I expect that they are all made by the same factory and so I suppose success might depend on how you use your Spitfire. My Spitfire is garaged overnight but used throughout the year in all weathers. Adrian
  2. 3D printing the tank itself would not be be viable perhaps, but creating 3D printed moulds would be easy. My daughter was commissioned to produce a mould for a new type of horse racing saddle and she did this by 3D scanning the prototype (using a simple DSLR and some clever software) and creating the files for the mould in Fusion 360. The mould was printed in several pieces and took about 100 hours. But once you have a mould you could create the actual tank in whatever material you like, in theory. Adrian
  3. Perfect, some spare for the inevitable cockups. No hurry though.
  4. I would be interested in buying some too Pete. I have a Spitfire hardtop that needs headlining and a wife who can make patterns and sew. Adrian
  5. My only experience is with my Mk2 Spitfire but I have been wrestling with poor aftermarket choke cables ever since I bought the car in 1985. Most never stay where you put them, many of them look cheap and all of them have been far too stiff. The last one required such force that it needed both hands to pull it out, and the dashboard would bend outwards too. Time for action. I started by looking at the return spring on the carbs. I undid the one that was there and was surprised to see that the jet tubes returned to their normal position just with the action of the springs that are built into the carb spindles. The other surprise was that the choke knob was just as stiff even when disconnected from the carb. I decided that the problem was with the heavy gauge piano wire that is used in the modern replacement cables and the sharp angle that the cable has to operate through in the narrow space between the carbs and the bonnet. Seeing that the control cable wasn’t really needed to push the jets back I thought that I could use a more flexible cable. After hours of sorting through my collection of choke cable bodies and playing with different types of control wires I found a workable solution using ptfe lined bike brake cables. I did this a couple of months ago and forgot to take any pictures but I have had a go at drawing what I did. I found a spare knob and drilled it through from the back. When I felt the drill bit break through the plastic I stopped drilling and used a thin rod to push out the transparent plastic disc and knob icon. I then drilled a bigger hole through the knob from the front to accommodate the nipple on the end of the cable. I dismantled an old radio aerial and chose the size of shaft that just fitted into the main body of the choke cable outer (the bit that screws into the dashboard and has the knurled chrome ferule) and I used epoxy to glue the nipple, knob and shaft together (behave yourself Doug). I could have used the original cable outer but the bike one was much better and so I joined this onto the back of the chrome bit with several layers of heat shrink cable wrap. I used Photoshop to draw the choke icon and I printed this onto silver card using a laser printer at work. The original transparent plastic disc just pushed into the front again. With everything fixed back together the choke is now easy to pull out and it does push back reliably. I have to confess that the aerial shaft has lost its grip a bit and the choke knob does slide back in a little after a bit of driving. I have resorted to the time honoured tradition of using a wooden clothes peg to keep it in place. As you can see from the picture, I have embraced this failure.
  6. Or maybe the PO put in a set of 1155s thinking that these were an upgrade but they are only for racing use as they do very little until they are hot.
  7. +1 for Cabin Pressure, very funny and very clever.
  8. I've just had a look at two drives from my collection of broken ones and there seems to be some variation in the length of the threaded collars. I would say, if the thing is working, just pack it out with washers until there is just some play left. Adrian
  9. Hi Ian, Do you have the copper washer between the angle drive and the threaded end piece? If so, perhaps fit a thicker one to take up the slack? Adrian
  10. Here is a picture of the fan in my Spitfire and the switch, which came from a Triumph Acclaim I think, in the thermostat housing. I'm not sure if the later Spitfires have the flat bit on the housing though. Adrian
  11. Hi Andrew, I have the Revotec fan on my Mk2 with the full width radiator and I am very happy with it. The installation kit is neat, with the fan behind the radiator, the fan seems to be correctly spec'ed for the job as it never stays on for long, even on the hottest days. I did remove the engine driven fan as I expected that it wouldn't be needed. I did change the location of the temperature sensor from the bottom hose to a tapped hole on the thermostat housing; it didn't make any difference to the operation but just looked a little neater. I would be very interested to hear your reasons for your advice Johny as I always find your posts to be spot-on. Adrian
  12. To complicate things further, when I changed my steering wheel I thought to complete the job with a new nut too. The one I ordered from Paddocks was the correct type for an early Spitfire but it didn't fit and I had to fish the old one out of the bin.
  13. Hi Mike, This is what I have done on my Mk2 Spitfire, on the advice of the hugely respected John Bonnett, (he of the GT4 Lightweight project) and it has worked out very well. If I were to do it again I would have used bigger fuseboxes as my original ten blade box spawned an additional eight blade box for the unswitched circuits and the ten blade for the ignition circuits is completely full, and I have yet to wire in my heated seats. I would also recommend making careful notes as you proceed as there may be detail differences in the real world to your original plans. I will need to redo mine at some point as much of what I have done is compromised by not having allowed for all the extra circuits in my original plan, and this does bother me as it is not as neat as it could be. Matters were made worse by a late decision to have everything major switched by relays and the desire to have these all grouped together on the bulkhead. But it sounds like you have all your extra electrical stuff either mapped out or already installed. Do you plan to use the standard wiring colours? I had a secondhand wiring loom from which I cut the necessary lengths and I used modern thinwall flex for the new circuits (radiator fan, USB sockets, interior lights, fog & spot lights, hazard warning lights etc.) but I have found that I could have bought wire in the correct Lucas colours for all of these. Now would be the sensible time to redo this as, working from home, I don't need the Spitfire for my everyday commute but I really loath wiring, almost as much as fitting carpets. Good luck and keep us posted. Adrian
  14. Like many of us, some of the TSSC HQ staff are working from home including the delightful Angie. I called to renew my membership on Monday and, as always, a phone conversation with Angie brightens the dullest of days. Adrian
  15. is it the knurled nut on the back of the speedometer and tacho clamps?
  16. I'm sure that they are the same fitting onto the flywheel but I think that the release bearing carrier arm is different too. Adrian
  17. Hi Neil, The two long bars that Rob mentions fit into tubes under the dash top. These bars can be quite well stuck in the tubes and may need an overnight soak with your favourite penetrating oil to get them free. Adrian
  18. And when you go to put the gearbox back in, check that the pushrod for the release bearing carrier hasn't fallen inside the bellhousing. I only spotted this after I had done up all the bolts and had to take it all off again. And, and, while you have it all apart why not check the condition of the stupid pin that acts as the hinge between the carrier arm and the bellhousing. This little blighter can fall out and stop the clutch working. That's another gearbox out job. Adrian
  19. I've just had a quick search and I can't find any Forum Rules so the following is my personal opinion. Thread drift is a feature of this forum, we all know that. Sometimes it goes somewhere interesting and useful, sometimes not. There are many contributors to this forum who spend huge amounts of their free time helping and advising us and it is a fabulous resource that has helped me beyond measure. However, most forums have a rule about not posting anything political or religious and I'm sure that this is a good idea. It is not about censorship but more to do with the notion that most readers have come here to tap into the vast pool of knowledge about old cars and they might not want to know about our opinions on other contentious matters; at least not in the 'Jokes' thread. Adrian
  20. The Mk2 should have a 4-2-1 manifold as standard and if you still have this there is, as Pete says, no real difference between the standard set up and the twin. I would suggest keeping the needles you have and working through Johny's excellent list. Adrian
  21. That all looks fabulous, well done. One thing though, I have a feeling that the rear brake shoe is upside down and that it should have its hand brake slot at the bottom. Adrian
  22. My flexible led bar arrived from China last week and it looked to be much better than I had any right to expect for less that £2.50 including delivery (link in my previous post) It is the same type that Paul has fitted so neatly to his Herald but I decided to wire in the brake light only. The bar comes with a self adhesive strip on the back but that was no use for my situation where I need to fit it to the inside of the flexible window of the soft top on my Spitfire. To avoid putting strain on the Vybak window material, the mounting of the led bar had to be flexible as well and I used some black closed cell foam, that came with the packaging of something, to make a frame round the led strip. I glued this to the window and covered the back of the assembly with some black rubber that may have been an off-cut of pond liner. I hope that makes sense. I ran the wire down the inside of the soft top and fitted a male 'phono' plug on the end. This plugs into a female trailing socket, that is wired into the brake light circuit, so that it can all be unplugged when I take the soft top off (Mk1 and Mk2 Spitfires don't have folding hoods, the hood and frame detach and get stowed) and the trailing socket can be hidden behind the tank cover panel with the folded hood.
  23. Now that my Spitfire is my daily transport I have seen the wisdom of Paul's idea and I been wondering about fitting high level brake lights. The obvious problem being that the Mk2 Spitfire's detachable hood and frame makes finding a suitable fitting very difficult. Many modern sports cars have their third brake light on the rear deck or boot lid but I'm not keen to drill holes in the bodywork, besides fitting a light on the boot lid would not place it much above the standard brake lights and so offer little advantage. I discovered this on amazon https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0761S184Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 it is a flexible led strip that is designed for motorbikes and I wondered if I could stick it to the top of the rear window of the soft top (inside) and have it connected to the car's brake circuit by a jack plug and socket. That way I could just unplug it when I remove the hood. What do you think, is it a daft idea? Adrian
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