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Adrian Cooper

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Everything posted by Adrian Cooper

  1. I agree Colin, top down motoring on any dry day is a joy with a good heater and heated seats. Now that I have it back on the road my Spitfire will be used all year round and once you have had heated seats you can't do without, which is why I have bought a set of heated seat pads too. Mine arrived 2 weeks ago and are still on the garage bench. Can I ask that you take pictures and keep us posted on your experience Paul? Adrian
  2. Both our 'moderns' are Saabs and they do have a 'Night Panel' switch that turns all the dash lights off except for the 0 to 70 section of the speedometer. I'm told, by someone who has done it, that the rest of the speedo illuminates too if you go over 70. However, if the car thinks that there is anything else you should know about it will illuminate that gauge as well, low fuel for example. And yes, it really makes night driving more pleasant. All delightfully quirky, like our Triumphs. Adrian
  3. Well I'm impressed with progress. I completely re-wired my spitfire last winter and it took the best part of 4 months to get it finished. I wish I had started from scratch like you because I was trying to adapt a standard loom to incorporate some superb wiring ideas form the equally superb John Bonnett. I think I have ended up with a sound, fully fused and relayed loom but it would have saved much head scratching if I had just worked from John's diagram with new colour coded wires; the thin wall stuff is great. Please keep us posted with progress. Adrian
  4. Hi Oli, The mk1 GT6 bonnet is a straight swap but I think that the mk2 GT6 bonnet uses the same hinge mounts as the mk3 Spitfire and would need some surgery to the hinge brackets. Somebody better informed than me (plenty on here) may be able to tell us if the hinge tubes could be swapped from your mk2 Spitfire bonnet to the GT6 bonnet with less work. Adrian
  5. Neil, it may be too far along the coast for you but I use The Eastbourne Tyre Company who have been doing an excellent job looking after my wire wheels for more than 30 years. They are a great mix of traditional know-how with modern facilities. I know many on here would advise getting rid of the wires but , like you, I feel anything else just looks wrong on a sports car. Adrian
  6. I have a locking petrol cap on my Spitfire. The chrome filler is not standard but the method of fitting should be the same for the original filler. The locking cap is a typical after-market type that was for a mini I think. I'm sorry to be vague about this but I did this more than 30 years ago. The brass part you can see in the picture is a plumbing fitting of some sort that was roughly the right size to fit into the neck of the chrome cap. I filed out two notches that allowed the locking part of the cap to pass through and then glued the brass into the neck. I hope the pictures explain this better. The picture of the locking cap shows it partially unlocked so that you can see how the locking part moves to grip the brass ring. Let me know if you want any measurements. Adrian
  7. John, This is probably a good time to thank you for the time you spent on recording and posting the story of your astonishing build. I can honestly say that your engagingly written and incredibly modest posts were the main inspiration for me to get out to the garage and to finally finish the15 year restoration of my Spitfire. My skills are not in the same league as yours but I hope you will be pleased to know that I followed your advice on wiring and that my Spitfire has fuses and relays in every conceivable location. I will miss hearing about the fine tuning of your beautiful Lightweight but I am enjoying the Ginetta story just as much. Thank you! Adrian
  8. The part cost £17 to print in nylon and have delivered from the printing service. Louis's 3D printer could have provided the same result but he did not have any nylon filament and buying in a roll would have cost us (me) more than twice that. I'm happy to cover these costs as it is all good experience for Louis, for his 3D design skills and in valuing his time. As I said right at the beginning, for us this was a 'proof of concept' exercise and the longevity and durability of 3D printing is well proven and, actually not even that new. Once you have a design file that is accurate then the printing process is the easy bit. Have a look at the online print service we used www.shapeways.com You could have your door release rod printed in 18k gold if you like.... Adrian
  9. Louis wasn't happy with the door actuator part he printed and so he has produced a mk2 version. We had this printed in nylon powder by an online service based in the Netherlands and we are both impressed by the strength and surface finish of the part (picture attached I hope). I will post it to Barry for testing. The replies to Pete's 'Unobtainium' thread seem to suggest that only this part and GT6 interior lights are in demand; really nothing else? Adrian
  10. I have a vague memory of this problem when I replaced the gearbox on my Mk2 Spitfire with one from a scrapyard. The scrapyard gearbox must have been from an early Herald and release arm and bearing in the bellhousing were for the spring type clutch cover whereas my car had the later diaphragm cover. I remember having to swap the arm from the broken gearbox into the new one (and fit the new release bearing) It has a very nice aluminium bellhousing, does yours? I could be wrong about this though, it was a long time ago. Adrian
  11. Louis says he could possibly work from good quality pictures plus measurements. The ideal would be to have pictures with a digital calliper showing dimensions such as the overall length, width and height plus the width and height of the bezel. He could work out the parabolas of the shape from these apparently. Can't tidy his bedroom though.
  12. This is great news. Louis was unhappy with this print as it suffered from a degree of warping so he is delighted that it fits. We have ordered a different brand of PETG filament which Louis is sure will yield a higher quality result and, if this is still not strong enough, we can also try nylon. Where from here? Well I think we should start listing the items that are unobtainable and see what Louis can do. I was whinging about the fact that I can't get B post cappings for my Mk2 Spitfire and said that this was something he couldn't do with 3D printing. He gave me that look that you only see on teenage boys' faces when they are looking at their fathers with a mixture of contempt and pity (he is 15) ; apparently he can and the plastic print can be chromed too. Really, I'm struggling to keep up. However, as has been said earlier in this thread, once you have the 3D file, finding an online service to print in whatever material you fancy is the easy part. Adrian
  13. Good morning Pete, Louis had the same suggestion about the relief webs on the main shaft and he has produced a version with a plain shaft too. I'll get him to print this version now that you have confirmed that it is a good modification. Sadly Louis is too young for beer but I'll buy him a lemonade or two. Adrian
  14. OK, we have some progress. My son Louis has been working from the broken door catch linkage that Pete mentioned in his original post and a picture of a complete object, and he has managed to create a version in his 3D software. He used his digital calipers to measure all the dimensions and worked from a scaled photograph of the complex curves to produce what we believe is an accurate copy. A 'render' of the file is attached. He has printed a couple of versions in PETG plastic (no, I don't know what that stands for either) but he is not completely happy with the strength of the printed part and he will be trying to print it with different settings and a different orientation so that the 'grain' of the plastic layers runs perpendicular to the likely strain in use. As soon as he has a part that he is happy with he will send it to you Pete for testing for dimensional accuracy and strength. Even if the plastics that Louis can print in his 3D printers do not prove to be strong enough (he is confident that they will be) we now have a 3D file that could be printed in metal by a more specialised print service. Perhaps the club could consider getting involved with this?
  15. No, that's not the hole you want. The pivot pin fits in a vertical hole on the other side of the bellhousing
  16. My son has offered to use his 3D design skills and his 3D printers to produce a part as a 'proof of concept' exercise. Pete, do you have a door catch, even a broken one, that he could work from? Or does somebody else have a suggestion for a part to test print? Adrian
  17. John, you linked to the 3DHubs service and my son's part of this is here https://www.3dhubs.com/service/Erynn For scanning parts he recommends this https://www.imakr.com/en/einscan/1392-einscan-se.html as being very accurate and so requiring the minimum of editing before printing. Adrian
  18. I think that John D is exactly right when he says that this is something to get excited about. Back in April, when I was preparing my Mk2 Spitfire for MOT after a 17 year lay up/restoration, I realised that the tester would not be pleased with the exposed bonnet hinges on my bumperless car and I could only find one of the overriders. 14 year old son to the rescue "Don't worry dad, I'll 3D print you a pair" and he did. First he measured the dimensions of the one I had and recreated it in his 3D software of choice, Fusion 360. The prints did take about 14 hours per overrider but I was delighted with the results, particularly as he was able to design them without the curved cutouts for the bumpers. I will try to attach a picture. My son has three 3D printers, the Robox that we helped him to buy last year which cost about £800 and 2 cheaper kit-form printers that he bought from China, a Creality CR10 http://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_441281.html and a smaller one from the same manufacturer. He has modified both of these to give exceptional print quality. He has taught himself to do this by watching Youtube tutorials and this is also how he has become so skilled in using the 3D software. He now runs a 3D Hub, also mentioned and linked by John D, where he prints items for people all over the country. He is currently working with a company that is developing an electric moped and he is designing and printing parts like the indicator stalks and battery box mounts and printing these in PETG plastic which is as strong as injection moulding if the right settings are used. So Pete, to answer you question, the technology is there to print obsolete parts and to print them in a variety of materials, but somebody has to invest the time in creating the 3D file to print from. 3D scanning technology is advancing very quickly but there is no simple way to do this without considerable knowledge of 3D software and the process of converting these files into a form that can be fed to a 3D printer. The answer is, as ever, ask a teenager. Adrian
  19. If you want a full width radiator then the MK2 one would be a direct swap for your MK3 Spitfire. If you use the MK1 radiator you would also need to use the MK1 Spitfire expansion tank too, a rather smart black painted brass tank that mounts above the carbs, as this radiator has another outlet pipe on the inside, just below the filler neck. I believe that this system was changed because it over-cooled the engine.
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