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Peter Bates

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    1970 Vitesse Convertible

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  1. I am intrigued by this topic and various others about splitting the brake calipers. A piston has seized in the ns caliper of my Vitesse which is why I am looking. Back in the 70's when I had a 13/60 I had exactly the same problem. The only way to free the pistons was to separate the 2 halves of the calipers. And the O ring wasn't available. Anyway, to cut a long story short, I put the calipers back on the car and bled the brakes and bled the brakes and bled the brakes....However much I bled them I couldn't get rid of a certain spongy feel. The brakes seemed to work ok but just this spongy feel. So I rang Girling Technical Service Department. After a sharp intake of breath the gentleman at the other end said that you weren't supposed to separate the calipers. Under normal circumstances, he said, you wouldn't be able to tighten them up enough. What was probably happening was that when pressing the brake pedal the 2 halves were being forced apart slightly because they weren't tight enough. So I had a trip to the breakers yard to get some replacements. I am now in the same situation and wouldn't have dreamed of splitting the calipers after that episode, but every thread I read on this and other forums seems to say it is OK. Confused of Northumberland
  2. Update: When flushing out the washing soda I found that I still had a blockage (in the banjo) That was a nightmare to clear out. Had to use one of my Dad's small wood chisels (sorry Dad) and a mallet to clear it. When I attached a hose there was a satisfying pop when the blockage cleared. Replaced the thermostat. Everything seems to be working OK. The heater works. Still haven't managed to clear the drain from the engine block. I have decided to leave that for another time. The 13lb radiator cap didn't fit because the lugs were too big.
  3. Thanks for all the suggestions. At the moment I have put washing soda in (as per one of Pete Lewis' threads) will leave it for a day or two before draining and flushing again. By which time, hopefully, the new thermostat will have arrived.
  4. That clears that up then 🙂 Might as well try a 13lb as ordering a thermostat & gasket
  5. OK. Sounds like a new thermostat then. What about radiator cap? Mine is 7lbs which agrees with the handbook I have and a Haynes manual but I am sure I have read on one of these threads that it should be 13 lbs
  6. .Last weekend I went for a run out. Normally the temperature gauge reaches 1/2 way and stays there. This time it started to rise upto 3/4. Nothing serious but took it easy. Having stopped for an hour or two I set off on the return journey. The temperature gauge only reached 1/4. And the heater has never worked since I bought it in 2014 So I thought it time to have a look Having located and removed the tap and body almost nothing came out. Have poked around with wire but without much success. Have managed to get a black gooey dribble but that is all Having read various threads on this forum decided to proceed with other recommendations. The pipe that runs along the top of the manifold had a bit of a blockage but nothing major The heater valve was completely blocked with a pinky gunge. Ran a hose through the heater both ways and it seems clear Ran Holts Speedflush through and have now tried Pete's washing soda (this is in at the moment) I have taken the car for several runs of around 10 miles but whatever I do the temperature gauge doesn't get past 1/4 and the heater still doesn't work. The hoses don't feel particularly hot Have disconnected the top heater hose with engine running and water is coming out. Disconnected the bottom heater hose and again water is coming out (not very warm) I am confused. If there was a problem I would expect the engine to overheat not underheat. Haven't looked at thermostat on the basis that after a long run it should be fully open anyway and if it wasn't it would be overheating.
  7. Thanks for your suggestions Dick & Pete.
  8. Whoops. Thanks Pete. Found it
  9. Draining the cooling system on my Vitesse 2L But which is the engine drain plug? Is it the one at the top that requires an allen key or the one below that requires a spanner? And what is the other one?
  10. I decided to do this. Except the socket that the flasher unit plugs into is made of what looks like bakelite. The 3 wires go into the socket but there is no obvious way of disconnecting them without breaking the unit. So i had to cut a wire anyway. Connected up and hey presto it worked..Sort of The warning light flashed but not consistently. The brightness of the light was inconsistent. The first flash was ok but then the next was not as bright and the next then it would go bright again and so on. I screamed and put it back to what it was to start off with and will look for the jewel lens (out of stock at James Paddock)
  11. This is how mine looks. Not connected up yet but it looks OK 15 amps/180w bulb. Hopefully that is wrong. Might have a few other issues if it isn't.
  12. OK Thanks for your comments. Looks like I just have to go for it.
  13. Looks like a separate output pin for the warning light. I have tested that it works by sticking the wires into the existing bulb holder and it flashes both left and right. I want to be absolutely certain before I chop the existing bulb holder out.
  14. https://visual-performance.co.uk/panel-dashboard-light-green-3039-p.asp But will it work?
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