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Gnbickley

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Wigton, Cumbria
  • Cars Owned
    1972 Triumph Spitfire MkIV
    1993 Rover 220 Coupe Turbo

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  1. Well it's taken me a little while to sort the brakes but happily I can confirm I finally got them fixed. First I replaced the hoses with steel braided ones but that didn't fix the problem so next I removed the calipers and purchased rebuild kits. Unfortunately the pistons were completely seized on the calipers and nothing in my arsenal could convince them to move! I therefore decided to buy new calipers and while I was at it I got new hoses, drums and shoes for the rear. Everything now works perfectly and I've been able to enjoy the sunshine over the last few weeks 😊 Thank you to everyone on here who commented offering advice and help it was very much appreciated and useful. Apologies for not updating you all sooner but she hasn't long been fixed.
  2. Johny, I'm inclined to do the hoses and see if it makes a difference if not then I'll do the calipers.
  3. Gentlemen, Thank you for all the advice. Unfortunately I'm on a very very tight budget and I can't afford to buy new or recon calipers from anywhere it's simply not an option at present. So I ordered new stainless steel braided hoses and caliper repair kits from Canley yesterday and it all arrived today. I'm hoping to get everything fitted over the weekend and get the front brakes sorted. DanMi, I got new hoses for the rear brakes as well as I'm going to overhaul them once I've got the fronts sorted.
  4. Those all sound like great ideas, thanks Gents. dougbgt6 what glue would you recommend? I've got PVA, super glue, UHU, polystyrene cement, araldite and epoxy resin or should I just stick with black masking tape? 😁
  5. Pete, it was a made up 'Italian' chicken with spaghetti. And the 'source'was excellent even if I do say so myself! As to the car it seems that both front wheels are affected but the rears are turning freely. The brake pedal returns to it's normal position instantly and there's plenty of free movement and rattle on it. The hoses do look in poor condition as did all the rubber around the pistons in the caliper on the drivers side when I had it in bits. So my thinking is to order a Caliper repair kit and replace all the seals and covers on the calipers as well as sorting out the pistons and making sure they're in good condition. I'll also order some new brake hoses and replace the rubber ones currently fitted. Hopefully that will cure the problem
  6. Gentlemen, Thank you for your advice, I shall carry out some more investigations tonight after dinner and hopefully determine the source. Gary
  7. Good afternoon everyone, I'm hoping that some one can help me with a brake problem. Toward the end of last year my 1972 Spitfire MkIV developed an issue with it's brakes. It was fine out on country lanes but whenever I took it into town the brakes started to fail. I'd depress the pedal and it would go right to the floor with no resistance. Pump it and the brakes worked but not as effectively as normal. So I decided to buy a load of new brake parts from Rimmer Bros to sort it out. I've been fighting on since 09:30 this morning trying to sort out the front brakes (I've managed to get one done!) I've removed the Caliper and fitted new Discs - that seemed to go fine although the rubber dust covers in the caliper are in a right state and I haven't got any new ones at present. I then fitted the new pads. First problem was trying to get the pistons to move so I could fit the pads in. It took far more force than I expected and eventually I had to open the bleed nipple to get the pistons to move. I fitted the new Discs and noticed that they seemed to drag on the disc. I then applied the brake pedal to make sure the pads moved and they're now locked solid on to the disc. I haven't touched anything else on the brake system yet as I'm getting pretty disheartened with messing up what should be a simple job! Any advice or ideas as to what I should try would be very gratefully received as I'm stuck for 1, ideas and 2 how to test to see what the problem might be. Thanks in advance, Gary
  8. Well Gentlemen, After extensive test driving over the last two weeks I'm certain that the new housing doesn't leak that all the hoses are sound and that the water pump is still in working order However I'm also equally certain that all this hard work and the initial replacement of the thermostat and temp sender has made not a blind bit of difference to the reading on the Temp gauge nor has it produced any warm air coming out of the heater vents I suppose the next step is to go back and triple check the voltage stabiliser for the gauge. Not a clue what to do next about the heating though.
  9. cheers Pete, I'll try the spray grease on the passenger door.
  10. I'm hoping to plumb the depths of knowledge on here again with another problem with my Spitfire. Having hopefully fixed my mechanical issues on the Spitfire I'm now looking at the doors. The drivers door opens fully and clicks as the door strap locks onto the locking pin but as soon as I let go of the door it swings shut, normally on my shins. I've fitted a new door strap as the old one had broken but this hasn't made any difference. The passenger door is exactly the opposite it's really stiff to open then stays open at any point of opening and needs quite a bit of force to close it. Is there a way to alter how easily the door opens? Cheers Gary
  11. Evening Gentlemen, Well I'm not going to jinx things but at present the Spit is back together and there doesn't seem to be any coolant where it shouldn't be (apart from all the stuff I spilt over the course of this repair) The pipe came out of the housing pretty cleanly and went back together pretty well so fingers crossed it holds over night. Next step is a test drive tomorrow once I'm certain there's been no leakage over night. The hardest thing today has been putting the bloody seats back in, I could not get the damned bolts to go through the carpet and into the holes spent over an hour but finally got them in so ready for a test tomorrow. Thanks for all the help. Gary
  12. Well, I've cleaned it up and it looks half decent, it's quiet in my hand so I'm going to risk it and put it back in. Now just to remove the steel pipe from the old housing and re-attach it to the "new" one.
  13. Ok so after much swearing some blood and quite a few tears of frustration I've finally got the original water pump housing off Now my plan is to put everything back together using a gasket compound to reinforce the new gaskets and leave it for 24hrs to cure before putting new coolant in. My main question today is do I need to replace the water pump or will it last a while longer yet? I'm anxious to get the car running again as it's been off the road for a good 2 months now and it's driving me and my boys mad not being able to drive it. when the car was running there was no noise from the pump and it seemed to be working fine.
  14. Yes I wasn't best pleased! Well I had a spare 5mins while I was collecting the Gazebo roof from the next door field and I thought I'd give that stud one last try with the mole grip as the WD40 had had time to soak in and low and behold it came out easy as pie! Two days I've been trying to get that bugger out! All done now though so I'm going to drain the cooling system tonight and hopefully get it sorted. fingers crossed
  15. Mark, Yep that's the correct housing, I got mine from Rimmer Bros and was a bit annoyed that it hadn't been cleaned up. in fact I don't think it had been touched since they got it from it's PO but now I've got it I'm determined to fix it I guess I'm just bloody minded! Richard, Thanks for the tip on plus gas I'll get some of that next time I'm in town. John, Thanks for the tip re the oven the missus goes back to work on Monday so I can use that trick if I still haven't gotten the stud loose. Pete, Colin, Mark thanks for the info on stud extractors I never knew they existed so I think I'll be adding some to my tool box.
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